Dump Trailer build

[fireemann]

Hey everyone. I’ve followed this site for years. I have got good ideas and information from people. Figure I would post one of my projects. If anyone has any insight or sees something I could improve on please let me know.

 

[fireemann]

 

[fireemann]

 

[fireemann]

 

[fireemann]

 

[fireemann]

 

[Sodo]

A used dump trailer was possibly the best $4000 I've spent in a long time.
It's done a phenomenal amount of work, and I can sell it for $4500.

Building one would be satisfying.
Not worth the work dollarwise, but definitely a satisfying project..

Here's a couple threads showing some dump trailer mods I've done.

Cut dump trailer coupler, weld on adjustable height coupler (w/pics): https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/404633-cut-dump-trailer-coupler-weld.html
A short, dual axle trailer kinda needs a correct height ball hitch.
It helps a little if the hitch height is adjustable.
I'd prefer more height adjustment options than the unit I installed.

Spare tire on underside of DUMP trailer bed: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/417490-spare-tire-underside-dump-trailer.html
I don't intend on using the spare often.
It's accessible enough, and perhaps less likely to get stolen.
Possibly can raise the bed if empty.

Welding a Side-mount jack onto dump trailer: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/welding/393120-welding-side-mount-jack-onto.html
Save your tailgate!
And it's easier to hop over the tongue.
I really LIKE this mod!

 

[metalbender]

Is your c channel up to the task?

 

[Sodo]

Is your c channel up to the task?

I see what you're saying.
Certainly for an empty trailer it is.
But for the case where the trailer was full - and had to be disconnected from the truck,,,, then maybe not.:shocked:

:thumbsup: Thanks for making me re-think that. :thumbsup:
I will add a 2" square tube from the jack, across to the other side C-channel.

 

[metalbender]

I was thinking the whole frame in general. The dump box on top will pivot at the rear of the existing frame. The forces induced will be sustantial.

 

[Sodo]

I was thinking the whole frame in general. The dump box on top will pivot at the rear of the existing frame. The forces induced will be sustantial.

Hmmm. The main frame is a rectangular-section (2x6?) Only the tongue is C-section.
Whenever the box has dirt in it, it's attached to the truck at the hitch.

The trailer is a 1998 model and was used by someone who carried almost zero weight in it as there are no dents in the box.
I think it was a wood floor contractor who used it to haul wood to the dump.
But since I got it it's carried/dumped perhaps a hundred 3+ ton loads of dirt, rock, rubble and the whole trailer seems to be holding up.

I'm not real clear on what your question is?
Is there a specific pic youre referring to?
I could take pics of any part of my trailer that you wish and tell you the material sizes they used.
The mfr is EZ-Dump.
It's tall and narrow, the wheels are completely under the 6x10 box.

 

[Ford850]

Sodo, I think he was questioning the use of the C channel by the OP.

 

[CADplans]

The ENTIRE frame under my 10K capacity, 6.5X10 dump trailer is 3X6 rectangular tube,,

The Rectangular tube is either 3/16 or 1/4 inch thick,,,

You know the manufacturer would not pay for tube steel,, if channel were good enough,,,

 

[Sodo]

Sodo, I think he was questioning the use of the C channel by the OP.

Ok now I understand. Dunno how I missed that metalbender is not the OP, sorry folks.

 

[metalbender]

Had to go back and read all the posts. I was referring to the OP's build. Sorry if I got things sideways. I think most HD trailers are built with box section tube.

 

[Ford850]

Some use tube, some C channel, and the Moritz I have is built with 8" cold formed I-beam. I think tube is very common but many complain about it rusting from the inside out especially up north. I don't know if one is better than the other if the appropriate size is used.

 

[Sodo]

Tube would offer more safety lifting the bed for the case when the wheels aren't on level ground.
Which they should be.
Often when you lift the bed off the frame, the dumpbox re-squares as it lifts off the frame and the amount of frame twist makes itself known as different left/right corner heights.
For the same trailer weight, the torsional rigidity of Rect tube is several times higher than C-section.
My trailer is 22 years old, in the Pacific NorthWet, and it's sound (not rusted) but if it was salty, or parked in the bushes..... there are details...etc.

Also, as the box lifts, the weight on wheels increases as the bed becomes more vertical and
if two tires are on soft ground one side often sinks in as the bed goes higher.
Then youre praying for the dirt to slide out SOON !!!

Anyway, frame rigidity, without just hauling extra steel around, is worthwhile.
As is a level dump site.
Also depends what will be carried and dumped.
Dirt or gravel is heavy. Vegetation, or firewood is light.
The operator will learn the capabilities of the trailer in a few heavy dumps.

All we've seen is the rim joists though, there's certainly a lot more structure to be added.

Most efficient design is to study a commercially mfd dump trailer and copy the structure.
It would likely be an engineered unit, or at least time-tested & lawyered.

 

[Thomas]

Hey everyone. I’ve followed this site for years. I have got good ideas and information from people. Figure I would post one of my projects. If anyone has any insight or sees something I could improve on please let me know.

**** that's nice job well done. :thumbsup:

 

[davedj1]

Tube would offer more safety lifting the bed for the case when the wheels aren't on level ground.
Which they should be.
Often when you lift the bed off the frame, the dumpbox re-squares as it lifts off the frame and the amount of frame twist makes itself known as different left/right corner heights.
For the same trailer weight, the torsional rigidity of Rect tube is several times higher than C-section.
My trailer is 22 years old, in the Pacific NorthWet, and it's sound (not rusted) but if it was salty, or parked in the bushes..... there are details...etc.

Also, as the box lifts, the weight on wheels increases as the bed becomes more vertical and
if two tires are on soft ground one side often sinks in as the bed goes higher.
Then youre praying for the dirt to slide out SOON !!!

Anyway, frame rigidity, without just hauling extra steel around, is worthwhile.
As is a level dump site.
Also depends what will be carried and dumped.
Dirt or gravel is heavy. Vegetation, or firewood is light.
The operator will learn the capabilities of the trailer in a few heavy dumps.

All we've seen is the rim joists though, there's certainly a lot more structure to be added.

Most efficient design is to study a commercially mfd dump trailer and copy the structure.
It would likely be an engineered unit, or at least time-tested & lawyered.

Trust me when I tell you if you want a quality trailer do not copy any manufacturers design! I have looked, measured and scrutinized about every brand dump trailer I can find and they are all made as cheap as possible. Yes, I'm sure they are "engineered" but the the very lowest possible level. For instance just look at the picture where the piston is hooked to the body, not bracing or anything.
This is why I am building my own.
For those of you who say it's not worth the time to build when you can buy that's not an entirely true statement. If you have to buy all your parts at retail you are most likely correct though. If any of you have looked at my thread and want a breakdown of costs of material I will be glad to divulge that information but I am getting my parts and steel at wholesale prices.

To the OP, the only thing I will add to your build is to build it heavier than you think it should be. Are you planning any overhang at the back of the bed or is that the pivot point? Overhang will help with tipping. It's not to late to shorten your main frame and allow for overhang on the dump bed.

 

[davedj1]

Tube would offer more safety lifting the bed for the case when the wheels aren't on level ground.
Which they should be.
Often when you lift the bed off the frame, the dumpbox re-squares as it lifts off the frame and the amount of frame twist makes itself known as different left/right corner heights.
For the same trailer weight, the torsional rigidity of Rect tube is several times higher than C-section.
My trailer is 22 years old, in the Pacific NorthWet, and it's sound (not rusted) but if it was salty, or parked in the bushes..... there are details...etc.

Also, as the box lifts, the weight on wheels increases as the bed becomes more vertical and
if two tires are on soft ground one side often sinks in as the bed goes higher.
Then youre praying for the dirt to slide out SOON !!!

Anyway, frame rigidity, without just hauling extra steel around, is worthwhile.
As is a level dump site.
Also depends what will be carried and dumped.
Dirt or gravel is heavy. Vegetation, or firewood is light.
The operator will learn the capabilities of the trailer in a few heavy dumps.

All we've seen is the rim joists though, there's certainly a lot more structure to be added.

Most efficient design is to study a commercially mfd dump trailer and copy the structure.
It would likely be an engineered unit, or at least time-tested & lawyered.

Trust me when I tell you if you want a quality trailer do not copy any manufacturers design! I have looked, measured and scrutinized about every brand dump trailer I can find and they are all made as cheap as possible. Yes, I'm sure they are "engineered" but the the very lowest possible level. For instance just look at the picture where the piston is hooked to the body, not bracing or anything. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/417490-spare-tire-underside-dump-trailer.html
This is why I am building my own.
For those of you who say it's not worth the time to build when you can buy that's not an entirely true statement. If you have to buy all your parts at retail you are most likely correct though. If any of you have looked at my thread and want a breakdown of costs of material I will be glad to divulge that information but I am getting my parts and steel at wholesale prices. To date I have 1850 into this trailer as seen in the last pic, this includes all wiring, lighting and break away control. I'm expecting about 500 more for the bed/sides.

To the OP, the only thing I will add to your build is to build it heavier than you think it should be. Are you planning any overhang at the back of the bed or is that the pivot point? Overhang will help with tipping. It's not to late to shorten your main frame and allow for overhang on the dump bed.

ETA: https://www.weldingsite.com/threads/10k-dump-trailer-build.81/