Dump trailers

rozett · Jan 31, 2006

I have the same trailer as skipmarcy. I haul firewood with and I'm very pleased with it. I did wear out the hydraulic pump and motor. It cost me $700 to replace it.

( ---What do you tow it with? )
I use a Ford Excursion w/ 6.8L V-10. My vehicle has a GCWR of 17,000 and max trailer weight of 9,600 lbs.

( ---When you say it is a 10k does that include the weight of the trailer? or does that mean it will haul 10k of material? )
The GVWR of the trailer is the combination of the empty weight and the payload weight. So my 12,000 GVWR trailer has an empty weight of 2,600 and can haul a payload of 9,400 lbs.

( ---Do you have to stop at weigh stations?)
This may depend on your state laws, but I do not have to stop at weigh stations.

( ---Is there a weight limit that can be towed by a certain vehicle.?)
There are a couple of factors to this answer.... vehicle specs, registered weight, and safety. The vehicle specs will identify the GCWR, which is the weight of your vehicle plus the trailer. In addition, each state has laws regulating how your vehicle is registered. Some states only let you register up to the vehicle mfg'r specs. Other states don't have that restriction. So check your state. The other factor of the answer is what you find safe. I don't think I would want to tow my 12,000 lbs trailer with a 5,000 lbs F150 4x2, even though it is within the Ford specs. You might have plenty of 'getup and go', but you definitely won't have enough 'whoa'. Not to mention that when that trailer dumps, the load moves and puts a lot of stress on the hitch and back end of the vehicle.

( ---In other words can a State Trooper pull me over and say I am over weight?)
They can pull you over for almost anything they want. I'd bet that if you were over your registered weight, they would warn or cite you. But, I've never been pulled over with the trailer. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

ELMO67 · Jan 31, 2006

Definately get some other estimates. I think you are being ripped off- here's my example. I had my driveway done 2 1/2 years ago with 12'' to 18'' of 5'' minus bank run gravel, 1280 ft. long, 13' wide, 60'x90' parking area. The driveway going around to the back of the garage is 80'x 12', 6''to 12'' thick. There were 3 men for the project, one running a JD 450?dozer, the boss running a 45,000 lb. vibratory roller, and one more guy coordinating the trucks, picking out any BIG rocks and whatever else needed to be done. They started at 7:05 on a Saturday morning and went balls out till 6:00 pm. That project cost me approximately $9500. Oh, Yeah, there were 44 tri-axles that day, loaded with approximately 16 tons each.

wushaw · Jan 31, 2006

---What do you tow it with? I tow it with my Pete 385, the other guys use one ton duallys 
---When you say it is a 10k does that include the weight of the trailer? or does that mean it will haul 10k of material? 10K total weight trailer & material 
---Do you have to stop at weigh stations? not in my state, check your own for legal issues 
---Is there a weight limit that can be towed by a certain vehicle.? Yes check your owners manual for GCWR and good luck staying under those weights. 
---In other words can a State Trooper pull me over and say I am over weight? As long as your not over any axle ratings
As you can see i am quite a rookie when it comes to these things. We were all rookies at one time /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif 
I do recommend a gooseneck type trailer, they are easier to use, turn tighter for better manuverabilty, handles better and you won't have to worry about weight distribution bars...just hook up and go.
With the amount of material you need to move a gooseneck would be your best option.

scesnick · Jan 31, 2006

Thanks for all the good info. It looks like I will have to check with the State and see exactly what weight I can and can not pull legally.
Sounds like my diesel will handle it O.K. I don't really want to go with the goose neck. I use the bed of my truck to tow bikes to the races ( which is another chore of this dump trailer) and I usually pack the bed with 3 bikes plus the others on the trailer. I get my gate and race fee paid for taxiing my buddies bikes. I already tow a 9,000 lb. travel trailer so I have the distribution bars already. thanks for the info though.
I have gotten 4 estimates for my road and they all came in right around that price.
You guys have just saved me about 3 days of calling trialer companies !!!! Thanks again... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

KevinMcD · Feb 1, 2006

I have a 2003 Dodge 3500 with the Cummins. I tow a Bri-Mar dump trailer. It is a 2 axle 10k GVW deck over. I use it for everything..gravel, dirt, mulch, concrete, etc. Best investment I ever made. Cost between 3-4k. No problems towing. What truck do you have? That will determine what weight trailer to get and as long as you don't overload the trailer, you should be ok with the cops. I got the deck over to minimize width, however, in retrospect, I should have probably gone with the low profile, as I can't tow my tractor in it. I bought it for the same reason you did...to gravel my driveway (1500'). I wound up having someone do most of the driveway in the end. A load of gravel doesn't go too far. I still have some driveway left to do and I plan on having the quarry drop the loads, then I will spread it with my tractor and dump trailer. Good luck on your venture!
Kevin

scesnick · Feb 1, 2006

Kevin,

I also have a Dodge Diesel. I'm glad you said that you should have bought the low profile to haul the tractor. that is one of my plans for this trailer and I never even thought about not being able to get the tractor in it.
I plan on doing my driveway over time. It is 2.5 miles but I only have to deal with the last 1.1 miles. SO, obviously this is not a weekend project. Thanks for the info. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

KevinMcD · Feb 2, 2006

Do you have the 2500 or 3500 Ram? Do you know what your tow rating is? Also, I forgot to mention that the sides on my dump trailer are removable, which is a real big help.
Kevin McD.

Corm · Feb 2, 2006

scesnick - I have a Pronovost P-50710-4E that I've been very happy with. It dumps 3 ways, which has proven to be real handy from time to time. It uses one big multi-stage cylinder in the middle of the box to dump. I haul it with a F-250 SD V10. No probs. If I did this right, here is a link to their website - Pronovost web site

Good luck with whatever you decide to do. You'll find uses for a good trailer over and above what you originally buy one for, guaranteed!

Corm

dieselmotorhead · Feb 2, 2006

I have some errors parked in my yard. I have a SRW 3500 dodge diesel (not the error). Good for about 2500# on the pin legally. I bought a gooseneck dump full width 16' bed with tiedowns and ramps. Even had "rub rails" welded top the top of the neck so I can store buckets. This was to move the machine/attachments and get occasional dump loads. The deck is too high, and the ramps are short. A skid steer would be perfect, but it is a large frame CUT. Very tight on the space when tying down. I left a bucket on top of the neck and almost went over backwards. Does not do much good to put something up there that you need to get back off as couterweight. When I need stone I call and get a tri-axle load. I am hoping for a big construction project close, so I can get more fill for the cost of the running of a tri-axle. Evertime I get rocks it costs ~500$, Or I can bring the machine and do dump runs all day( tri-axle 22-25Ton payload, dump trailer 5 ton payload). I would be working for 100$ a run, if the fill cost nothing. This error cost me around 4500$ 14K GN 105" by 16' dump bed. I then got a GN equipment hauler 20' plus 4' self cleaning pop up dovetail. It moves the machine no problem, still too steep for cars. I was hoping for a all around trailer. If I had to do it again, I would definitely go with a removable sides/ flatbed dump trailer with long ramps. But when you buy compromise equiptment, there are no non-compromise functions. OBTW if you have anything close to a large frame CUT- stay away from low profile. The clearance between the fenders is a PITA except for the most narrow wheel widths. JD 4600, FEL, BH,filled tires, 82" otside to outside wheel width, 84" box blade. If you can put your tires on and off without chainfalls, the above may not apply.
P.S. I do not loose ANY bed function with the gooseneck hitch not in use( B&W turnover ball or something like that), a fifth wheel is a different story

_RaT_ · Feb 4, 2006

Definately get some other estimates. I think you are being ripped off- 

That project cost me approximately $9500. Oh, Yeah, there were 44 tri-axles that day, loaded with approximately 16 tons each. 

I'd say you got a heck of a deal rather then him getting ripped off. At $9500 for 44 trucks thats $215.90 per truck or $13.50 a ton delivered and thats if you count the roller and dozer for free and their labor for free and delivery/pickup charge. I always order a transfer load as it drops the price per ton considerably.

ELMO67 · Feb 4, 2006

Well, I like to think I got a good deal /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif. I also had the same guy come back and fill the area in back of the garage and pour my two concrete aprons the following fall. The current rate from a pit nearby is $ 265 per triaxle for 6" minus, delivered.

scesnick · Feb 4, 2006

Elmo,

These estimates might be a tad high but you got to remember that we are talking about 1.1 miles !! that was grader, dozer, labor the whole deal.

rk246 · Feb 5, 2006

I have been using a custom built 14' 14k dump trailer, it is 80 1/2 " wide and works well for fitting my tractor ( a 3830) but not the 84" box blade attached for obvious reasons. This is actually my dads trailer that I have been using, I am thinking of buying a 14' 14k 96" wide dump trailer that is a deck over with fold down sides and a tri open back. I think that would work perfect for what I need and fit the box blade. Cost is the only thing that has kept me from doing it so far. I can fit 5 ton in the trailer I have been using and the rock pit down the road sells it to me for 15.00 for 5 ton... heck of a deal...

Bigorange121 · Feb 6, 2006

Hey Dieselmotorhead how long are your ramps? Mine are 90" aluminum. Loading the CUT is pretty easy with this setup but I did install a hydraulic toplink so my attachments don't drag on the approach angle(plenty of pics in the sig). I had a 20'GN with 4' dove to haul my JD 250 skidsteer. When I needed more than 1 attachment like a harley rake I would back the SS up the ramps then spin it around on the trailer deck. I don't think you would have room to spin it with the sides on though.

dieselmotorhead · Feb 7, 2006

I bought the dump trailer new to my specs. It is a BRI-Mar made out of Chambersburg PA. I got it from the dealer across the street from the factory to save on shipping. I think they are around 6' or 7' ramps. It is a deckover dump bed with a smooth bottom ( so soil dumps out). So the approach is a little steep. And when on top with some mud it is slick as ice. When I left a bucket on top of the neck, when I came back down I almost went over backwards ( not enough front weight). It has fixed sides, and tieddowns inside. The 4600 with a front bucket and a rear implement uses every bit of the 16' bed- and then some, so I need to park the bucket over the neck, so much for storing an extra bucket/front implement. As a dump trailer it should be pretty good. As an equipment hauler so-so. For a skid steer or smaller machine it would be nice. I ended up getting an eqipment trailer that was first used to move my stepdaugters "stuff" ( In ref to george carlin-) to Alabama. It now helps move my machine to and from dealer, and between properties ( a few miles ). I went low bid on the equipment hauler-- Appalachian trailers in ohio. Added just a few optional things, expanded steel "hay hauler" or deck over neck, full 102" width. There are lots of options if I were to use it more often would be nice, but for occasionaluse dont make sense for cost and weight( loss of payload). Things like electric jack, dual jacks. One that I should have gotten was the two speed manual jack 5 extra pounds and lots of convience.
The dump trailer has been underused, I am waiting for that construction job to come up with clean free rocky fill to dump in my mud- so I can have muddy rocks.
If I had to do it over- If I wanted a dump trailer again it would be with removable sides. If i were to get another equipment hauler I would go a little higher quality. After paying for the steel a little attention to detail, better wiring and running gear is not that expensive. I would also get a "torque tube" or some other thing that stiffens the trailer to prevent the front "tipping" a little without the rear being tipped also. "I" beams are good in resisting bending the long way, the two together is good at resisting bending sideways( like a truss) But in torsion it really is poor. Some of the better trailer MFG's in OK and TX do this with a pipe in the middle or with steel tubing for side rails. The dump trailer does not have that problem, shorter wheelbase and they used box tubing side rails. The construction of the dump trailer was very good. The wiring on both trailers was "minimalistic" I hope my experience will help someone not make the same errors, or at least know the compromises going in to a deal.

Bigorange121 · Feb 7, 2006

Here' some pictures of the ramp racks I just made.Haven't had a chance to paint em yet.

Pic 1

Bigorange121 · Feb 7, 2006

pic 2

Bigorange121 · Feb 7, 2006

pic 3

slowzuki · Feb 7, 2006

Seems pricey shop around for trucking rates. You are near crazy thinking of putting that kind of wear on your truck and trailer to do the driveway.

Locally trucker charges 50-60$/hour for a tandam in full season. Off season he charges less. I believe he said it carries between 13-16 yards per load depending on what road he is on.

We had 22 loads delivered at this price last summer.

We had some clean crushed rock was also delivered but the pit charged a small fortune for it.

JimMorrissey · Feb 7, 2006

I think you should reconsider or plan on taking the next three years to complete the job /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif A triaxle or a tandem can move so much in so little time it's crazy to try it yourself. You've got to account for the diesel and the wear and tear on your truck and the trailer (brakes). That's a huge amount of material.

I thought of the same thing and I tried it with my dump trailer, not an option. It's an 8000lb unit and the load it dumped was tiny in comparison to a tandem. But now I have a dump trailer /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif I would do this......either find somebody who will give you a good deal on trucking if they can fill in spaces during their day/weekend or have three or four guys bid on the job and have it done in one shot. I took the route of having a guy drop off a load now and again when he had a few minutes. If the quarry is 10 miles away it won't be too bad and you can concentrate on finishing the driveway the way you want. It won't be easy to find a guy who will do it in pieces, but they're out there, you just have to keep calling and talking to people. Most of them like to bring it all in one shot and be done with the job.

A dump trailer is a great thing to have! You can start the project and if you get sick of doing it, you can hire out now and again for a load. At least you'll have a trailer in the end.