Dump Truck recommendation

Komrade · Feb 4, 2023

I am starting to shop for a dump truck. You can usually find one not for much more than a dump trailer, and my Tacoma can't tow that much, and a dump truck is more manurable.
I need it to be able to haul my Kubota L3430 (about 7k lb with backhoe, plus trailer) and a load (gravel, dirt, wood chips)
I'd like one based on a 1 ton+ truck, bc my tractor can only lift 8 feet, and anything heavy like boulders I plan to
Anything you can recommend for 10k or less? old and ugly don't scare me much, but rusty and leaky is something I will avoid.

So far I seem to find that most 1 tons with dump bodies seem to have weaker/cheapest engines and may not be good to haul and tow.
4x4 also seems to be a rarity, but maybe less of a big deal on a dump truck, although in order to make out of my drive steep drive way typically helps.

Any tips appreciated.

tacticalturnip · Feb 5, 2023

You say weakest, cheapest engines, but check the gearing.

My one ton will pull your house over, just at a leisurely pace.

nyone · Feb 5, 2023

Check your insurance company on the yearly increase before you do this.

Not all 1ton dumps are power houses.

mikester · Feb 5, 2023

You should probably be looking at 5 ton minimum, you won't be carrying much in a 1 ton.

Once you get into the CDL range you are talking a lot of $$$$ out the door up front for licenses, insurance and inspections before you even turn a key.

jjeff · Feb 5, 2023

In my opinion an Older GMC 1ton might do the job. I owned one needed some work when I bought it. Bought it for a few hundred over scrap prices. Had the indestructible 5.7 350, coupled to the slightly stronger 4l 80E trans compared to a 60e. Frequently over loaded with gravel and sand hauling on back roads, pulled a 16' equipment trailer with it pretty easily, a derelict 50' mobile home not so much lol. Yes it leaked fluids but not profusely I just checked them all during pre start. Literally got 12mpg loaded or empty. Never bought or used with any attention of making money with it just saving money by being able to do stuff on my own.
Good luck.

nisaacs · Feb 5, 2023

mikester said:
You should probably be looking at 5 ton minimum, you won't be carrying much in a 1 ton.

Once you get into the CDL range you are talking a lot of $$$$ out the door up front for licenses, insurance and inspections before you even turn a key.

I don't think the OP wants a 10 wheeler. Here is a F-600 for reasonable, needs some work. I realize it is in the wrong location for you but gives you something to consider, quality/price.

Dump Truck - heavy equipment - by owner - sale

Hay Dude · Feb 5, 2023

Komrade said:
I am starting to shop for a dump truck. You can usually find one not for much more than a dump trailer, and my Tacoma can't tow that much, and a dump truck is more manurable.
I need it to be able to haul my Kubota L3430 (about 7k lb with backhoe, plus trailer) and a load (gravel, dirt, wood chips)

Keep in mind a 1-ton dump truck cannot tow a fully loaded trailer and have a load of gravel dirt will overload the truck. 1-ton dumps are ok for payload in bed or a loaded trailer, but not both unless it’s lightweight material.

Komrade said:
I'd like one based on a 1 ton+ truck, bc my tractor can only lift 8 feet, and anything heavy like boulders I plan to
Anything you can recommend for 10k or less? old and ugly don't scare me much, but rusty and leaky is something I will avoid.

at under 10k, with today’s used truck prices, you are looking at slim pickings. Even at 20k, there’s not much that will be newer or very reliable for frequent use. Might be ok for occasional use. If you only have 10k, I’d recommend something like an old Ford or chevy/gmc with low side contractor dump. Your tractor can dump into it, and you could tag it for 25,999 and drive it without a CDL. The little 1-ton dump trucks usually cost more and have low hauling/towing payloads. Just remember your towing limit with a truck like that is 10k or less.

Komrade said:
So far I seem to find that most 1 tons with dump bodies seem to have weaker/cheapest engines and may not be good to haul and tow.

That’s because they are usually company owned and they don’t want expensive trucks that get abused by employees. They just want low up front purchase price and the minimum power to get the job done. Most 90’s and early 2000’s single axle dumps were 210HP! But they will get the job done.

Komrade said:
4x4 also seems to be a rarity, but maybe less of a big deal on a dump truck, although in order to make out of my drive steep drive way typically helps.

Any tips appreciated.

I just bought an IH7500 with 4WD and it’s going to cost me a lot to get it fixed up for a couple big jobs coming my way. Big 4x4’s are big money.

In your case, I’d try to get by with an older 90’s ford or chevy dump truck with low sides and under CDL (if you don’t have a cdl).
There’s a small possibility you could get something like an older F-450/550 or Ram 4500/5500 with 4WD for cheap-usually with a gas motor. They can tow a decent amount. Maybe have enough capacity on rear axle to have a bed 1/2 full while towing a 10k trailer.

jjeff · Feb 5, 2023

One more thing my truck was 2wd was able to get a little more traction when needed by raising the dump bed. Could fully load with a old L2850 w Bf 500 loader.
Biggest thing for my occasional use was getting it semi reliable and making it run, drive, stop, and dump.

mikester · Feb 5, 2023

nisaacs said:
I don't think the OP wants a 10 wheeler. Here is a F-600 for reasonable, needs some work. I realize it is in the wrong location for you but gives you something to consider, quality/price.

Dump Truck - heavy equipment - by owner - sale

View attachment 782456
View attachment 782457

https://www.ford.com/commercial-trucks/chassis-cab/

I only count 6 wheels on an F-550 or F-600

An F-350 carrying capacity is going to be eaten up by your dump box and hydraulics weight

jigs_n_fixtures · Feb 5, 2023

I just did a quick search on Craig’s list. Reasonable price for something in the 5 to 7-yard range, that doesn’t look beat to hell, is around $15k. There are a few for $10k and under, but they are pretty beat up.

Most of the single axle, 5 to 7-yd, (no CDL) are ex government rigs which timed out on hours, miles or age. They are in pretty good shape. They were generally sized to tow a small to medium backhoe on a trailer for the small projects those government agencies do.

Generally hydraulic brakes don’t need a CDL, anything with air brakes needs the CDL. There may be a few states who still issue air brake endorsements, with a lowered weight limit. Not sure there are any anymore.

nisaacs · Feb 5, 2023

mikester said:
https://www.ford.com/commercial-trucks/chassis-cab/

I only count 6 wheels on an F-550 or F-600

An F-350 carrying capacity is going to be eaten up by your dump box and hydraulics weight

Okay, when you mentioned 5 ton minimum, I assumed truck tonnage. You meant 5 ton payload, my bad.

I agree, a 1-ton payload is not much, even a more modern truck rated @14k. Then if you go back aways, into the 90's, 80's or 70's you get into the 10-12k rated trucks. Just no payload left.

To haul a decent load and tow a tractor, I recommend 1.5-2 ton rated trucks.

nyone · Feb 6, 2023

jjeff said:
In my opinion an Older GMC 1ton might do the job. I owned one needed some work when I bought it. Bought it for a few hundred over scrap prices. Had the indestructible 5.7 350, coupled to the slightly stronger 4l 80E trans compared to a 60e. Frequently over loaded with gravel and sand hauling on back roads, pulled a 16' equipment trailer with it pretty easily, a derelict 50' mobile home not so much lol. Yes it leaked fluids but not profusely I just checked them all during pre start. Literally got 12mpg loaded or empty. Never bought or used with any attention of making money with it just saving money by being able to do stuff on my own.
Good luck.

I had a 95 k3500 mason dump with 350 and 4l80e trans. I got more like 7-8mpg. Idk how your getting 12 with a bed the shape of a box. My 2012 suburban hardly even gets 12mpg.

On a side note my state requires commercial car insurance on any dump truck and that first year it cost me $1400..for a truck I paid $800 for. I almost sold it after that. After about 5yrs it was down to about $600 a year. I have no accident or tickets on my record for the previous 10yrs. I also dont live in a city. I'm glad the truck is gone now as a trailer does nearly the same as a mason dump with less expenses.

crashz · Feb 6, 2023

I have the 1987 K3500 in my avatar picture and a 2003 2wd F450. Both diesel. Neither are race cars when empty. When loaded, prepare for the single finger salute.

Initial purchase price for both trucks are dwarfed by the monumental cost of upgrades and upkeep. The GMC hasn't been on the road in years. The Ford is my workhorse. I keep them because I love old dump trucks, not because they make any sense to do so.

Like Haydude said, neither will pull a 10k trailer and a full load. The GMC is at capacity with one cubic yard of soil in the back (measured and weighed with bucketful with a Komatsu PC150). The Ford will legally carry 2 CY (~3 ton) but the added weight of a trailer is too much. The GVWR of the GM is 10,000lbs, rated to tow 10,000lbs. The Ford GVWR is 15,000lbs and rated to tow 20,000lbs (which it would spit its guts out trying to do). With my 9.9k lbs equipment trailer, I am safety under the CDL requirement.

The F450 is a unicorn. Light enough to stay below CDL requirements (with my use), but with enough capacity to actually use it legally. Its got nice big brakes, 19.5" wheels and corresponding "big truck" tires (which make a world of difference for tire life and durability). I replaced the dump body with a new one and ordered a body for a F350 (smaller sides). So it looks the part of being just a 1-ton. 7.3L powerstroke diesel with a 6 speed stick shift. Just a sweet old truck.

If you could find a F450 like mine, that would be a good option. Don't be picky on the engine. They were only offered in the diesel or V10 in those years. For low maintenance and lower purchase price, the V10 is probably the best choice. If not, any brand of 1-ton is as good as the others. Trucks of the 90's and older are cheap, simple and easy to work on. Rust free would be my only requirement. But expect to either tow or haul. Not both.

Komrade · Feb 6, 2023

Since my trips would be very local, I can tow, load, and come back for the trailer separately.. Thanks for the feedback.

dodge man · Feb 6, 2023

CrashZ has the truck you need. 3 tons of payload is enough to be useful. Some of those 1 ton dumps may be overloaded at 2 tons.

Komrade · Feb 6, 2023

crashz said:
I have the 1987 K3500 in my avatar picture and a 2003 2wd F450. Both diesel. Neither are race cars when empty. When loaded, prepare for the single finger salute.

Initial purchase price for both trucks are dwarfed by the monumental cost of upgrades and upkeep.

What are the upkeep challenges of the dumps, or is it the diesel?

crashz · Feb 6, 2023

Glad you asked:

Both trucks were rode hard. Typical wear items: Brakes, ball joints/tie rods, shocks, steering boxes, PS hoses, brake lines, cooling lines and hoses, radiators, tires fuel pumps, tanks, etc. The F450 has a new clutch and transmission housing (known to crack). Both trucks had significant rust (not uncommon here) so sand-blasting, painting and body replacement. The dump body, subframe, hoist and installation on the F450 was about $12K. Just put a poly fuel tank in the F450 (this past weekend) so that was another $1000 with straps and associated parts. The K3500 will eventually get a flatbed.

Specific to the dump itself, the bodies are prone to rust because they are usually made of mild steel, have poor paint jobs and don't get washed to often. Should be a lot better in WV. The hoists can give some trouble, but simple electric over hydraulic pump systems are not to bad to replace. Same with PTO set-ups. Look for a power up and power down hoist. Its a minor detail, but makes a difference when a gravity hoist gets stuck (I've had that happen). Make sure to prop the body properly if working on it raised.

The diesels add more complexity and cost, but really its the old part. A dump truck rarely becomes a cherished classic that leads and easy life. Most are driven by people who don't care about the truck. When they are worn out, they are sold off.

Komrade · Feb 6, 2023

nyone said:
Check your insurance company on the yearly increase before you do this.

I called, and even a commercial sized truck (e.g. F700), insurance is cheap (400-500) even if commercial sized, as long as it's labeled for personal use. This is in WV.

jjeff · Feb 6, 2023

nyone said:
I had a 95 k3500 mason dump with 350 and 4l80e trans. I got more like 7-8mpg. Idk how your getting 12 with a bed the shape of a box. My 2012 suburban hardly even gets 12mpg.

On a side note my state requires commercial car insurance on any dump truck and that first year it cost me $1400..for a truck I paid $800 for. I almost sold it after that. After about 5yrs it was down to about $600 a year. I have no accident or tickets on my record for the previous 10yrs. I also dont live in a city. I'm glad the truck is gone now as a trailer does nearly the same as a mason dump with less expenses.

Might have been the lighter weight aerodynamic rust perforations lol drove it from se wi to the u.p. after I bought and fixed a few things I swear I was a averaging 12mpg pulling a trailer with a tractor on it. But that was 10 yrs ago. Anyways my 6.0 4500 class C motor home gets around 10mpg and that's a large box.