Easy outs

   / Easy outs #11  
Maybe I am unlucky or clumsy but in my experience the easy out is more likely to become the problem than solve the problem.
 
   / Easy outs
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Heck this is minor, relative speaking. I could just leave it like it is. This is a $1200+ flagpole from a school for $200. I do consider it a good deal. I've been looking for 3 years for a used flagpole. Ones like this very hard to find.

Guys...I'm going to retap, not even going to try heat or anything. Think I'll be better off. Thanks for the suggestions.
 
   / Easy outs #13  
I have had best luck using the LEFT HAND DRILL BITS then drill them and most times the stud that si broken off unscrews as you drill it... The combination of heating and unscrewing direction works like a champ.

Otherwise as others said drill & re-tap or install a heli-coil.


Mark
 
   / Easy outs #14  
IF it was me, I'd take the easyout out, put a big enough nut over the bolt that the hole in the nut almost covers the broken off bolt, hold it in place, and use my welder to weld my way out, welding the nut to the end of the bolt.

Let it cool and use a wrench to turn the bolt out...

SR
 
   / Easy outs #15  
IF it was me, I'd take the easyout out, put a big enough nut over the bolt that the hole in the nut almost covers the broken off bolt, hold it in place, and use my welder to weld my way out, welding the nut to the end of the bolt.

Let it cool and use a wrench to turn the bolt out...

SR

You read the part about the stud being aluminum right?
 
   / Easy outs #16  
I would drill out the hole as straight as I can using a jig if possible. Then buy a heli-coil kit in the right size and install a heli- coil into the hole. Once the heli-coil is in you can install a bolt that's the same size only the hole is a lot stronger. Heli-coil kits are available at places like NAPA and Acklands.
 
   / Easy outs #17  
Aluminum is sticky but for the best easy out success two adjustable wrenches 180° apart works about 99 % better than one wrench. Grind flats on the EO to accommodate the second wrench. That just may be why the T handle tap wrench was developed.

For heat to be successful, the whole end of the pole needs to be heated on the outer periphery while there is pressure on the easy out, allowing the expansion to draw the pole from the bolt. If the small area where the bolt is only gets hot , it can't expand because the larger diameter hasn't expanded. This is true from small sheaves to 4 ft. diameter bull wheels.
 
   / Easy outs #18  
What Striker said. A big left-hand-twist drill bit ain't cheap but is a VERY good thing to have around from time-to-time.

- Jay
 
   / Easy outs #19  
I agree on the left-hand drill bits. I bought a set 6-8 years ago and haven't broken a bolt in a hole since then.

:)

Bruce
 
   / Easy outs #20  
For heat to be successful, the whole end of the pole needs to be heated on the outer periphery while there is pressure on the easy out, allowing the expansion to draw the pole from the bolt. If the small area where the bolt is only gets hot , it can't expand because the larger diameter hasn't expanded. This is true from small sheaves to 4 ft. diameter bull wheels.

What you say is true, SandburRanch, but there are other factors at work. Just heating the parts enough may disrupt the oxidation that was causing them to seize, allowing them to separate after they cool. Spraying with a good penetrating oil while warm will draw the oil in as the part cools. Also, if you can heat the stud really vigorously, say with an oxy/acetylene or better yet a TIG torch, it'll try to expand but because it's restrained by the surrounding cold material, it'll plasticly deform and get smaller when it cools. Heating makes the material softer so it deforms more easily as it expands. Sometimes that's enough to break things loose. While you've got the welding outfit there, you might as well build up the stud enough to grab it with a pair of vise grips.
 

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