Educate me on beefing up the FEL bucket to add hooks

[joshuabardwell]

I want to stitch/skip weld the angle to the bucket so I don't warp anything.

I'm not an expert, but I suspect that you don't absolutely need to do a full seam weld all the way around the angle. That being said, if you did want to fully weld it up, backstepping would be one approach to use. When you backstep, you skip ahead 6" or so, then weld backwards toward your previous bead. This gives the beginning of your current bead extra time to cool down while you finish the bead and then set up the next bead. Backstepping is probably more effective with stick welding, where you have to chip slag and brush the weld before tying in another bead. With MIG, you could finish the bead and immediately go on to the next 6" section. Still, it'd probably make some difference.

 

[joshuabardwell]

I welded some 3/8 stock on top and underside lip of my bucket, then welded on the hooks and a 2-5/16 ball.

That's exactly what I did, except I welded on a 2" receiver tube instead of a ball. With the ball on top of the bucket, I couldn't get it under the coupler of my trailer. I use a ball mount with 6" or so of drop. Also, the 2" receiver tube leaves the mounting location open for other uses, should they arise.

I considered using angle iron, but the profile of my bucket didn't leave an obvious place to put it, except across the front, and I kind of liked the curved profile of the top lip better than the sharp profile of angle iron. If my little tractor can bend a piece of 3/8" flat stock (plus 1/8" of bucket metal), I'll eat my hat.

 

[Teikas Dad]

That's why I didn't get too carried away with my bracing. Welding the flat bar between the rear lip and the back of the bucket formed a box section of steel, and that's strong enough for anything I'll do with it.

Most of us over-build things, I've been doing it for so long now that I have to tell myself "You really aren't building a bridge here.."

I find that the Kubota buckets are built pretty strongly to begin with.

Sean

That's my problem, I always tend to overbuild everything. Based on what everyone has suggested I'm going with a 3X3 piece of angle mounted on the back of the lip like this. (this is a piece of 2X2 that I put there just to show what I'm talking about)

I just went out and measured again. The top flat portion of the 3X3 will stop about 1/4 inch or so before the radius of the bucket lip downturn starts so I'll have enough space to run some beads. The back/lower leg of the 3X3 will hit the back of the bucket about half way between the lower radius and the back edge of the top lip. A bunch of weld beads along there will hold that together and make a box. The flat top of the 3X3 will give me a good surface to weld the hooks on to.

I appreciate all the input!

 

[cmore]

Here's a pic of the "hooks" I've used on two tractors. This is the bucket of the B7500 I had. The L3200 sports very similar angles. They work nice because all you need to do is drape the chain into the slots and they hold it at any link. If using a longer than needed chain, it's simple to drop the excess into the slots to keep ut out of the way

View attachment 301056

Great Idea. Wish I had thought about that before I welded hooks on.

 

[Shield Arc]

I'm not an expert, but I suspect that you don't absolutely need to do a full seam weld all the way around the angle. That being said, if you did want to fully weld it up, backstepping would be one approach to use. When you backstep, you skip ahead 6" or so, then weld backwards toward your previous bead. This gives the beginning of your current bead extra time to cool down while you finish the bead and then set up the next bead. Backstepping is probably more effective with stick welding, where you have to chip slag and brush the weld before tying in another bead. With MIG, you could finish the bead and immediately go on to the next 6" section. Still, it'd probably make some difference.

I'm not an expert either. But I've run a few beads in my life. I'm a big believer in back stepping, and skipping around. I'm not to bad with heat shrinking material around after it has warped, but back stepping and skipping around a lot can eliminate some warpage.

 

[Teikas Dad]

I'm not an expert either. But I've run a few beads in my life. I'm a big believer in back stepping, and skipping around. I'm not to bad with heat shrinking material around after it has warped, but back stepping and skipping around a lot can eliminate some warpage.

When I first started welding I learned that the hard way. My first project was a welding cart. I welded a piece of 1/8 sheet steel to some 1/2"X1" steel tubing to make a platform for the welder. I welded a solid bead all the way around the seam between the sheet and the tubing without stopping. The welds have held up great, the only problem was the bowing of the tubing from all the heat. It wasn't much but it was enough to teach me to slow down and think before I weld!

 

[Chilly807]

That's my problem, I always tend to overbuild everything. Based on what everyone has suggested I'm going with a 3X3 piece of angle mounted on the back of the lip like this. (this is a piece of 2X2 that I put there just to show what I'm talking about)

I just went out and measured again. The top flat portion of the 3X3 will stop about 1/4 inch or so before the radius of the bucket lip downturn starts so I'll have enough space to run some beads. The back/lower leg of the 3X3 will hit the back of the bucket about half way between the lower radius and the back edge of the top lip. A bunch of weld beads along there will hold that together and make a box. The flat top of the 3X3 will give me a good surface to weld the hooks on to.

I appreciate all the input!

By the time you get 'er welded in and painted, it should look pretty good. Hel* for strong, too!

I see you have the ATI-style quick attach bucket.. that's on my wish list for build projects, but it's down the list a ways.

Sean

 

[Teikas Dad]

By the time you get 'er welded in and painted, it should look pretty good. Hel* for strong, too!

I see you have the ATI-style quick attach bucket.. that's on my wish list for build projects, but it's down the list a ways.

Sean

That's actually a Kubota quick attach. Got it from Barlow's like that.

 

[Shield Arc]

When I first started welding I learned that the hard way. My first project was a welding cart. I welded a piece of 1/8 sheet steel to some 1/2"X1" steel tubing to make a platform for the welder. I welded a solid bead all the way around the seam between the sheet and the tubing without stopping. The welds have held up great, the only problem was the bowing of the tubing from all the heat. It wasn't much but it was enough to teach me to slow down and think before I weld!

I've always found square & round tube, and pipe to be very reactive to heat. Here are some different techniques to correct warpage after welding. Sometimes you're better off to preheat before welding.

 

[Teikas Dad]

I've always found square & round tube, and pipe to be very reactive to heat. Here are some different techniques to correct warpage after welding. Sometimes you're better off to preheat before welding.

Thanks Carl! I found a good video on Youtube last night where preheating was discussed and demonstrated. Definitely something I'm going to keep in mind when I weld.