Electrical Mystery

EddieWalker · Jan 4, 2025

A few years ago I put a 20 foot post in the ground with a LED yard light. It's at the far end of our fenced in area for our dogs, and my wife really liked having it. After about two years, it sort of died, but not all the way. Some days it would barely glow, other days it would sort of flicker, or slowly start to come on, but then turn off. But most days, it was dead.

For Christmas, I bought my wife a new light and promised to make it a priority to change it. The light is 17 feet off of the ground, and it terrifies me to get up that high and swap lights. I built a tower from lumber lying around to make my 12 foot step ladder as solid as possible. I don't like heights, but if I'm on something solid, I can deal with it.

Old light off, new light installed, and nothing happens. I checked the voltage and my meter says 118 volts. I returned the light and installed the new one. Still nothing.

I've probably installed a thousand lights in my lifetime. I don't know of anything electrical that is easier than installing a light. Black to black, white to with, and bare copper to green. But this has me questioning my sanity. And to make it worse, I've already installed three of them at my place, plus a dozen or more of them for clients. I really like these lights.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lithonia-Lighting-6000-Lumen-120-Watt-Bronze-Hardwired-LED-Outdoor-Area-Light-Bulb-Included/5013387275

The light has a small dusk to dawn built into it. You can turn the ring around the glass to make it brighter, or dimmer. You can also move a small plastic cover over the glass to make it come on sooner or later. That's the only controls, or options on the light. The other three worked perfect the first time I installed them. I've never had a client complain about these lights. They are probably the only light that everyone likes!!!!

Is it possible to have voltage, but not amps?

I'm about to do something really stupid and run a new line to the post, but before that happens, I'm hoping for a suggestion that I'm missing.

As I'm typing this, I think I'm going to remove the LED light, and install a simple light bulb to see if I really have lost my mind.

gstrom99 · Jan 4, 2025

I'm with you (stumped). Sounds simple. Did you check amp draw like with one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-CL390-Electronic-Resistance/dp/B08DTDCG7T/ref=asc_df_B08DTDCG7T?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80814222102121&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584413749879313&psc=1

Try a "regular" light and/or bypass the day/night switch.

LittleBill21 · Jan 4, 2025

yes its possible to have a surface voltage. where any real load will drop it, but leds use very little.

wire a normal incandescent bulb, and see if it works , if it doesn't unscrew the bulb. check voltage. if it shows normal, screw it back in and check voltage. if the voltage disappears, you likely have a loose connection or a cut wire.

and just wire the old light up at the house and test it as well, its prolly still good.

TractorTech · Jan 4, 2025

Pretty strange, but thinking that you do have two duds. Install the incandescent and see what happens as your meter indicates voltage. 120 watts/1 amp is less than a floodlight would be.

bcp · Jan 4, 2025

I would get some pole steps. put a pair opposite each other to lean an extension ladder against, then alternate them at 18 inch intervals until you are at working height at the light. Wear a safety harness. Forget the ladder contraption.

Your power or telephone line company may have buckets full of used ones.

Bruce

garry1p · Jan 4, 2025

LittleBill21 said:
yes its possible to have a surface voltage. where any real load will drop it, but leds use very little.

As others have suggested, test it inside to verify it is not the wiring to the pole.

Make sure you have covered the photocell so no light can get in.

gstrom99 · Jan 4, 2025

Too late now maybe... my rural power company replaces (working or not) yard lights with LED's, for like $150.

LouNY · Jan 4, 2025

One of my lights gave me fits for a long time. I had installed a time switch because I didn't want it lite the entire night. Turned out the timer needed a neutral and a ground.
As others have said instead of a meter using a incandescent light bulb to check for supply current may tell you more.

kf4uda · Jan 4, 2025

I noticed a box at the bottom of the pole. Is there a junction there or just a pass-through? Is your light fed directly from a breaker from the house or from somewhere else? Where is the osha stamp on your ladder brace structure?

MossRoad · Jan 4, 2025

EddieWalker said:
A few years ago I put a 20 foot post in the ground with a LED yard light. It's at the far end of our fenced in area for our dogs, and my wife really liked having it. After about two years, it sort of died, but not all the way. Some days it would barely glow, other days it would sort of flicker, or slowly start to come on, but then turn off. But most days, it was dead.

For Christmas, I bought my wife a new light and promised to make it a priority to change it. The light is 17 feet off of the ground, and it terrifies me to get up that high and swap lights. I built a tower from lumber lying around to make my 12 foot step ladder as solid as possible. I don't like heights, but if I'm on something solid, I can deal with it.

Old light off, new light installed, and nothing happens. I checked the voltage and my meter says 118 volts. I returned the light and installed the new one. Still nothing.

I've probably installed a thousand lights in my lifetime. I don't know of anything electrical that is easier than installing a light. Black to black, white to with, and bare copper to green. But this has me questioning my sanity. And to make it worse, I've already installed three of them at my place, plus a dozen or more of them for clients. I really like these lights.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lithonia-Lighting-6000-Lumen-120-Watt-Bronze-Hardwired-LED-Outdoor-Area-Light-Bulb-Included/5013387275

The light has a small dusk to dawn built into it. You can turn the ring around the glass to make it brighter, or dimmer. You can also move a small plastic cover over the glass to make it come on sooner or later. That's the only controls, or options on the light. The other three worked perfect the first time I installed them. I've never had a client complain about these lights. They are probably the only light that everyone likes!!!!

Is it possible to have voltage, but not amps?

I'm about to do something really stupid and run a new line to the post, but before that happens, I'm hoping for a suggestion that I'm missing.

As I'm typing this, I think I'm going to remove the LED light, and install a simple light bulb to see if I really have lost my mind.

View attachment 2123792 View attachment 2123795

Is it wired directly to a hot circuit, or is it on a switch somewhere?

The reason I ask is because I've had several problems with LED lights that ended up being on flaky switches. Most of them were dimmer switches, but a few were on some proprietary odd balls.

If it were me, I'd hook it up inside with a short pigtail to the same circuit you're using and see if it works.

On the bright side, you have a good deer stand.