I've attached a basic wiring diagram for a Cub. It may be easier to unbolt the control panel, with the amp gauge, switch, etc., to see what you're doing. A couple 3/8" bolts should hold the base to the torque tube, and I think 2 bolts to the fuel tank. You'll just need to prop the fuel tank up with something.
A basic test light is the best thing to check for "power", from any point A, to point B. If you have the panel off the tractor, to where you can place the probe on the test light, I'd first check to see if everything is wired per the diagram. Note, the 6V system is a positive ground system. I'm assuming that it is wired correctly. From that point, I'd hook the ground end of the test light to the + side of the battery, then touch the probe to the post with green wire in this diagram, confirming you have voltage to this point on the ammeter. If it lights up, place probe on the lead coming out of the light switch (green wire in diagram) going to the fuse.
If it lights up there, move to the post with black wire, going to ignition switch. If you don't have power there, could be the fuse. If you do, place the probe on the post coming out of the ign. switch, with the switch on. With the switch on, you should show power coming out. If it doesn't, more than likely the switch may be slightly corroded inside. If this is the case, WD-40 works great to spray at the top of the switch, then pull the switch in, and out numerous times, plus turning will clean them enough to work again. If not, you can always replace with a HD toggle switch, but I've gotten several OEM switches to work again with the WD-40 trick.
If you do have current flow out of the switch, then touch the probe to the - terminal as directed above to confirm current to that point. If you have current there, place probe on the + side. You'll need to roll the engine over, so the points make contact, and you test light should flash, whenever points make contact.
From that point, I see you replaced just about everything except the points and condenser. At this point, I'd remove the distributor cap, and dust cover if it has one, and place probe on the wire coming in through the side of the distributor to confirm current flow. Those Bakelite, or nylon insulators have been known to crack, and short/ground out the current.
If you're good to there, you can bump the starter, to where the points are making contact. You can take a screwdriver, and move the points to break contact. You should see a small spark. If no spark there, either the points are burned, or the condenser is bad. You can dress the points if they are burned, enough to get it to run. Re-gap the points to .020, with the rub block setting on the high lobe of the dist. shaft. A short screw starter is very handy tool to get the contact point set screws started. It's pretty tight quarters in there to get them started. A set of ignition wrenches are very handy also, to loosen/ remove the nut holding the wire on the points. It'd be an idea to replace both the points and condenser if they are burned. If you do replace them, either get OEM set from Case/IH, or a set of Echlin's from NAPA. They are worth the extra couple of dollars. I've seen more than several threads, where they installed a set from TSC, etc., and the rub blocks either wear off, or bend, changing the points gap. I've never had that problem with an OEM set, or the Echlin's.
You'll also want to check the lugs inside the dist. cap for ionization build up. This can be scraped off with a pen knife. You'll probably want to touch up the rotor button with a fine piece of sandpaper, or light scraping with a pen knife too.
With all of this being done, you should be able to remove #1 plug, ground it out on the block, turn the engine over with switch on, and see spark. Re-install plug, and unless you have a fuel delivery problem, or terrible bad compression it should start with the throttle set about 1/3, and a quick pull on the choke, @ full choke for 3-4 revolutions enough to give it a sniff of fuel. And a lot of that has to do with the temperature. Out of the 6+ gas tractors I have, none seem to be exactly the same when it comes to choking. Seems they all have their own personality, so you'll just have to learn your tractors sweet spot on the throttle, and choke setting. I do know over choking isn't hard to do. So just watch and not flood it.
Hopefully, you haven't fallen asleep reading all of this, but this should get your tractor started, unless you have a terrible compression issue. Hope this helps..!!