/ Early 2000's Branson 2810 a Journey (if your having problems with any Branson or Parts this might help)
#1
john15nlt
Member
- Joined
- May 12, 2009
- Messages
- 43
- Location
- Bridgeport Texas
- Tractor
- Ford 2000 1969 gas / Ford 4000 1973 Disel
So about 4 years ago I was running my dad's Branson 2810 that he had purchased a year earlier at an auction. It had been sitting and we did the maintenance.
The tractor started acting funny, it was surging, the hydraulics were slow and intermittent, and because the fuel gauge had been flickering I was worried I was out of fuel. So as I pulled it up on level ground to refuel it died. At this point all the electronics were dead. After some searching through the fuse box and finding no blown fuses and also checking to make sure I had voltage at the battery I found a slow blow fuse in the wiring harness was open, this is about 12 inches in front of the fuse box connected to a plug-in connector. Initially, I just reconnected it with a thick piece of solder wire but eventually just put a wire nut on it to eliminate any further problems. Now that power was restored I could crank but could not get it to start. I verified I had fuel, even verified I had fuel via the lift pump at the injectors. So it appears I had a bad injector pump. However, removing the pump was a challenge and after a couple of days, I just abandoned it. Fast-forward to earlier this year. With an inspection camera, a mirror, and some determination I was able to get the pump out. The hold-up was the fuel shut-off rail. When the pump is in off position a pin that controls the flow actually slides into the housing of the engine. This is a blind connection and because the rail was no longer moving freely it took a small closed-end wrench and a hammer to tap it open and free the pump from the engine. I made an attempt to see if I could rebuild the pump but with no manuals, no experience, and no visuals I was not able to make it work. Looking for a pump and/or someone to rebuild it was a challenge. I did not want to drop the 1200+ from the one dealer in east Texas who said he could get it and I am rural but not so rural as to have a local rebuilder. I was able to locate a very similar pump p/n IP-YM390 from Southern Global Tractor for 525 plus shipping. When I got it, it looked like it was going to work but the pump would not clear the housing. Inspection showed it was not the pump housing but the retaining wire for the flow rail. I ended up pulling the wire, shortening it, rebending it, and drilling two small holes in the pump which retained the wire. It then cleared and was able to install it. After a couple of hours, the engine was purring and we were back in business. Well almost. I had no hydraulics. I checked the fluid it was good and then noticed the pump was incredibly hot. I replaced the suction filter and still nothing. I ended up pulling the pump and when I did I found the shaft was broken. Back on a parts search the East Texas Dealer said he could find me one with the engine serial number 1500-1800 and 30-60 days. Further digging and cross-referencing, the pump is a Joyang F23, 13cc displacement. New tractors seem to use a 2 stage pump with steering and hydraulics connected into a single pump. This tractor did not have clearance for the long pump because of the starter location. So they put the steering pump in front of the engine gear plate and the main hydraulics in the rear of the gear plate. I was able to find a couple of suitable options, not Branson pumps but finally settled on a pump from bad boy mowers p/n TA00001404A. I knew it was a 13 cc gear pump made by Joyang but was not sure it was going to work. I knew I was going to have to make some modifications as my pump had 4-hole flange adapters and this pump had a 1/2-inch threaded adapter. When I had the pump in my hands I actually went a different direction and instead of swapping hoses I swapped the bodies of pumps to keep the original flanges and it worked I had a working pump but still no hydraulics and the pump was super hot. So I could only run diagnostics in short bursts to keep the risk of burning up the pump on the low end. Eventually, I found that all the hydraulics ran through the open center loader controls. There it split and ran back into the housing to control the 3-point. The issue was twofold. The first issue was the quick-connect output from the pump was connected but not connected. I have never seen anything like this it was snapped on like it was connected but pulling on it disconnected it without moving the retainer sleeve. Once that was corrected the limiter valve was found to be stuck in the closed position. I pulled it apart and cleaned it and now I had flow and working hydraulics. This also leads to the a-ha moment on the loss of electrical and slow blow fuse. There is almost no clearance between the pump and the starter but between these runs the oil pressure/cut-off switch wire. This wire had been burned open by the heat of the pump, shorting out the harness, and blowing the slow blow fuse. In my journey, it also appears that 2023 was the launch of the new Badboy Small Tractor, which after scrolling through the parts diagrams is just a rebranded Branson tractor, it looks like to me if you have something in the 25 hp range Branson from after 2010 or select parts from before these are the same tractors, and probably filters and so forth.
My best guess is that the hydraulics were overheating at the same time the injector pump was going out, causing the short, now with the hydraulics overheated it seized the shaft and when I was able to get it started again it broke the shaft off but at least some of this was created by either a faulty overload on the hydraulics or a bad connection which caused the overheating because there was no flow.
Hope this helps someone
badboymowers.com
southern-global.com
The tractor started acting funny, it was surging, the hydraulics were slow and intermittent, and because the fuel gauge had been flickering I was worried I was out of fuel. So as I pulled it up on level ground to refuel it died. At this point all the electronics were dead. After some searching through the fuse box and finding no blown fuses and also checking to make sure I had voltage at the battery I found a slow blow fuse in the wiring harness was open, this is about 12 inches in front of the fuse box connected to a plug-in connector. Initially, I just reconnected it with a thick piece of solder wire but eventually just put a wire nut on it to eliminate any further problems. Now that power was restored I could crank but could not get it to start. I verified I had fuel, even verified I had fuel via the lift pump at the injectors. So it appears I had a bad injector pump. However, removing the pump was a challenge and after a couple of days, I just abandoned it. Fast-forward to earlier this year. With an inspection camera, a mirror, and some determination I was able to get the pump out. The hold-up was the fuel shut-off rail. When the pump is in off position a pin that controls the flow actually slides into the housing of the engine. This is a blind connection and because the rail was no longer moving freely it took a small closed-end wrench and a hammer to tap it open and free the pump from the engine. I made an attempt to see if I could rebuild the pump but with no manuals, no experience, and no visuals I was not able to make it work. Looking for a pump and/or someone to rebuild it was a challenge. I did not want to drop the 1200+ from the one dealer in east Texas who said he could get it and I am rural but not so rural as to have a local rebuilder. I was able to locate a very similar pump p/n IP-YM390 from Southern Global Tractor for 525 plus shipping. When I got it, it looked like it was going to work but the pump would not clear the housing. Inspection showed it was not the pump housing but the retaining wire for the flow rail. I ended up pulling the wire, shortening it, rebending it, and drilling two small holes in the pump which retained the wire. It then cleared and was able to install it. After a couple of hours, the engine was purring and we were back in business. Well almost. I had no hydraulics. I checked the fluid it was good and then noticed the pump was incredibly hot. I replaced the suction filter and still nothing. I ended up pulling the pump and when I did I found the shaft was broken. Back on a parts search the East Texas Dealer said he could find me one with the engine serial number 1500-1800 and 30-60 days. Further digging and cross-referencing, the pump is a Joyang F23, 13cc displacement. New tractors seem to use a 2 stage pump with steering and hydraulics connected into a single pump. This tractor did not have clearance for the long pump because of the starter location. So they put the steering pump in front of the engine gear plate and the main hydraulics in the rear of the gear plate. I was able to find a couple of suitable options, not Branson pumps but finally settled on a pump from bad boy mowers p/n TA00001404A. I knew it was a 13 cc gear pump made by Joyang but was not sure it was going to work. I knew I was going to have to make some modifications as my pump had 4-hole flange adapters and this pump had a 1/2-inch threaded adapter. When I had the pump in my hands I actually went a different direction and instead of swapping hoses I swapped the bodies of pumps to keep the original flanges and it worked I had a working pump but still no hydraulics and the pump was super hot. So I could only run diagnostics in short bursts to keep the risk of burning up the pump on the low end. Eventually, I found that all the hydraulics ran through the open center loader controls. There it split and ran back into the housing to control the 3-point. The issue was twofold. The first issue was the quick-connect output from the pump was connected but not connected. I have never seen anything like this it was snapped on like it was connected but pulling on it disconnected it without moving the retainer sleeve. Once that was corrected the limiter valve was found to be stuck in the closed position. I pulled it apart and cleaned it and now I had flow and working hydraulics. This also leads to the a-ha moment on the loss of electrical and slow blow fuse. There is almost no clearance between the pump and the starter but between these runs the oil pressure/cut-off switch wire. This wire had been burned open by the heat of the pump, shorting out the harness, and blowing the slow blow fuse. In my journey, it also appears that 2023 was the launch of the new Badboy Small Tractor, which after scrolling through the parts diagrams is just a rebranded Branson tractor, it looks like to me if you have something in the 25 hp range Branson from after 2010 or select parts from before these are the same tractors, and probably filters and so forth.
My best guess is that the hydraulics were overheating at the same time the injector pump was going out, causing the short, now with the hydraulics overheated it seized the shaft and when I was able to get it started again it broke the shaft off but at least some of this was created by either a faulty overload on the hydraulics or a bad connection which caused the overheating because there was no flow.
Hope this helps someone
Bad Boy Tractors - Bad Boy Mowers
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badboymowers.com
Injector Pump, IP-YM390
Yanmar Injector Pump, IP-390, 721420-51700, CH10679, YM2500, YM2610, YM2610D, YM3000, YM3110, YM3110D, YM3810, YM3810D, John Deere 850, 950, 1050
southern-global.com
TA00001404A - Bad Boy Mowers HYD PUMP or Bad Boy Parts number TA00001404A
Bad Boy Mowers Parts for sale at www.badboylawnmowerparts.com. Get your TA00001404A - Bad Boy Mowers HYD PUMP here! Find your Bad Boy OEM Parts using our colored parts diagrams or simply search online by the Bad Boy Part Number TA00001404A
www.badboylawnmowerparts.com
