Elevation = rough start up..?
- Thread starter Gnome
- Start date
sea2summit
Elite Member
Glow plugs continue to stay hot I believe, I don’t think the igniting diesel burns cooler than they are?
PILOON
Super Star Member
I have needed to heat my plugs a few times in cold weather, often twice and occasionally 3 X.
My timer clack's B4 re setting so I know when to re glow. But then I have always started.
Generally I re glow if my CUT wont fire up after about 10 or so RPM's.
Now my CUT is a '58 with 1800 hrs and still doing all that I ask of it.
My take is cold starting was not then what it is today and so far nothing has hurt my CUt from my procedures.
One thing I do is have an intelligent battery tender permanently attached so I always have a full charge.
My timer clack's B4 re setting so I know when to re glow. But then I have always started.
Generally I re glow if my CUT wont fire up after about 10 or so RPM's.
Now my CUT is a '58 with 1800 hrs and still doing all that I ask of it.
My take is cold starting was not then what it is today and so far nothing has hurt my CUt from my procedures.
One thing I do is have an intelligent battery tender permanently attached so I always have a full charge.
OP
Gnome
New member
Figured out how to upload video to this forum. Started my LS mid day yesterday, temperature about 48˙, elevation 3,000', 20 seconds on the glow plugs. This tractor never started this rough with so much smoke when at sea level at similar temperatures. But, it does smooth out. Just rougher than a cob at first light....
CobyRupert
Super Member
I think the white smoke means fuel is not being burnt properly. But why?
It is smoke, and not vapor, not anti-freeze right? No sweet smell and no coolant loss from reservoir tank?
So why is fuel not burning? Too much fuel? Is this a common rail injection system? Bad injector? Or does a cylinder have low compression that doesn’t ignite fuel at initial low temps?
It is smoke, and not vapor, not anti-freeze right? No sweet smell and no coolant loss from reservoir tank?
So why is fuel not burning? Too much fuel? Is this a common rail injection system? Bad injector? Or does a cylinder have low compression that doesn’t ignite fuel at initial low temps?
Cameron Smith
Member
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You have a cylinder that is not firing until the others ARE and helping it catch up. I would first check my injectors and the valve settings. With such low hours, I doubt that compression is the problem.
the old grind
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Bad injector as mentioned wouldn't surprise me. An uneven vs conical spray pattern might be less apparent at op temp than when starting. How's o'all power once it's warmed up?
DieselBound
Elite Member
How long to operate GPs depends on what the manufacturer says!
My cars (VW TDIs), truck (12v Cummins) and Kioti automatically controls how long the GPs (or in the case of the Cummins, heater grid) is energized to full. I know that in my VWs the GPs will continue to glow post ignition to help smoothen out things; not sure of the others.
My B7800 is purely mechanically operated. I don't remember the recommended time for operating the GPs on it; I just keep keying it until it starts up. On my generator (alsways seem to have a digital copy of its manuals around me), which is an early 90s Onan with a Kubota engine, the Operator's Manual says 10 to 30 seconds. Cycle time pretty much depends on how much current the GPs are pulling (and, of course, the rating on the wiring!).
Lack of combustion heat leads to the harder starts. More heat is required. Either coolant heater or more GP function. If this were my issue I'd be double-checking the GPs before anything else; and, I'd look at what the manual says for how long one can operate the GPs (and operate on the longer side). Every diesel is going to be a bit rough when firing up when its cold: my Kioti is really great at starting and running, but even it will be a bit less so just after a first start in the cold [and I'm not really in all that cold of a climate]). And as has also been noted, oil viscosity can also affect things: you want the fasted spin of the crank as you can get; oil rated for lower temps will provide that. Oh, and that also brings up the notion of the state of one's starter! I've pulled, cleaned and lubed many starters and that will go a long way to ensuring they operate as best as possible: ones operating in a clutched environment are susceptible to clutch dust and get a bit stiff. Good battery, good starter, good GPs and ample GP operation is one's best bet.
Lastly, weak injection pumps, bad fuel lines/filter connections and or injectors will also make starting tougher. But this starts getting away from the low-hanging fruit stuff!
My cars (VW TDIs), truck (12v Cummins) and Kioti automatically controls how long the GPs (or in the case of the Cummins, heater grid) is energized to full. I know that in my VWs the GPs will continue to glow post ignition to help smoothen out things; not sure of the others.
My B7800 is purely mechanically operated. I don't remember the recommended time for operating the GPs on it; I just keep keying it until it starts up. On my generator (alsways seem to have a digital copy of its manuals around me), which is an early 90s Onan with a Kubota engine, the Operator's Manual says 10 to 30 seconds. Cycle time pretty much depends on how much current the GPs are pulling (and, of course, the rating on the wiring!).
Lack of combustion heat leads to the harder starts. More heat is required. Either coolant heater or more GP function. If this were my issue I'd be double-checking the GPs before anything else; and, I'd look at what the manual says for how long one can operate the GPs (and operate on the longer side). Every diesel is going to be a bit rough when firing up when its cold: my Kioti is really great at starting and running, but even it will be a bit less so just after a first start in the cold [and I'm not really in all that cold of a climate]). And as has also been noted, oil viscosity can also affect things: you want the fasted spin of the crank as you can get; oil rated for lower temps will provide that. Oh, and that also brings up the notion of the state of one's starter! I've pulled, cleaned and lubed many starters and that will go a long way to ensuring they operate as best as possible: ones operating in a clutched environment are susceptible to clutch dust and get a bit stiff. Good battery, good starter, good GPs and ample GP operation is one's best bet.
Lastly, weak injection pumps, bad fuel lines/filter connections and or injectors will also make starting tougher. But this starts getting away from the low-hanging fruit stuff!
OP
Gnome
New member
Power and function is all normal and good once warmed up. Gonna check ejectors when I get a chance in a couple weeks.