Engine drive shaft coupler to hydraulic pump failure. Need help!

[River Valley Landscaping]

The coupler between my engine and hydraulic pump has completely stripped/sheared out. The engine is a predator 670cc from harbor freight with a 1” shaft and 1/4” keyway. The pump is an Eaton with a 7/8” 13 spline shaft. Currently I am having difficulties with getting the worn out coupler off the engine, as well as sourcing a replacement. Any ideas are appreciated on how to go about any of this. Thanks in advance!

 

[TractorTech]

Not sure what you are asking. 7/8"-13 Spl coupler on a 1"-1/4 keyway shaft? This doesn't make sense. The coupler diameter is smaller than the shaft???

 

[mini14]

The engine has 1" shaft the pump is 7/8. If you can separate the current worn out one maybe you can use a lovejoy coupler with spider

 

[oldnslo]

Have you tried contacting the company that made the machine? Other option might be Eaton which was purchased by Danfoss. Some thru drive couplings used between pumps might be similar configuration.

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

Have you tried contacting the company that made the machine? Other option might be Eaton which was purchased by Danfoss. Some thru drive couplings used between pumps might be similar configuration.

It is a replacement motor that was in the tractor when I bought it, it’s an Allmand tractor and the company had ceased production of tractors years ago.

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

The engine has 1" shaft the pump is 7/8. If you can separate the current worn out one maybe you can use a lovejoy coupler with spider

I have considered this route and may be the way I end up going.

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

Not sure what you are asking. 7/8"-13 Spl coupler on a 1"-1/4 keyway shaft? This doesn't make sense. The coupler diameter is smaller than the shaft???

The coupler in the picture is one piece and has two female ends. One side accepts the splined pump and the other accepts the drive shaft from the motor. I have got the pump out of the way but having a hard time getting the coupler off the engine shaft because the key is not exposed at all. I put a 3 jaw gear puller on the shaft and couldn’t get it to slide off. That’s currently where I’m at. Tomorow I will try a little heat or end up cutting it off if it comes to it. Really just wanted to see if anyone had any tips/tricks dealing with this sort of thing.

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

I was also considering possibly spinning the engine 180 degrees and using the flywheel side. Not sure if the flywheel side would be able to handle the force of powering the pump. This would also leave me with a terrible oil filter location as well as the exhaust right next to the current location for the gas tank . Below is a picture of how the setup was before removing a few things.

 

[Ehanson]

Be sure there isn’t any hidden set screws on the keyway side?

 

[TractorTech]

I was also considering possibly spinning the engine 180 degrees and using the flywheel side. Not sure if the flywheel side would be able to handle the force of powering the pump. This would also leave me with a terrible oil filter location as well as the exhaust right next to the current location for the gas tank . Below is a picture of how the setup was before removing a few things.

Gotcha. Wasn’t sure why I wasn’t getting the problem.
If you turn the engine around, you’ll have an oppos rotation and the pump will not work.

 

[etpm]

The coupler between my engine and hydraulic pump has completely stripped/sheared out. The engine is a predator 670cc from harbor freight with a 1” shaft and 1/4” keyway. The pump is an Eaton with a 7/8” 13 spline shaft. Currently I am having difficulties with getting the worn out coupler off the engine, as well as sourcing a replacement. Any ideas are appreciated on how to go about any of this. Thanks in advance!

Try these: 7/8" 13 Tooth Splined L-099 Jaw Coupling Half | 3 Piece Flexible Jaw Couplers | Shaft Couplers | Power Transmission | www.surpluscenter.com , 1" L-099 Jaw Coupling Half | 3 Piece Flexible Jaw Couplers | Shaft Couplers | Power Transmission | www.surpluscenter.com ,1" L-099 Jaw Coupling Half | 3 Piece Flexible Jaw Couplers | Shaft Couplers | Power Transmission | www.surpluscenter.com . The 3 links are for the three parts needed to make a flexible coupling to go from your splined shaft to your keyed shaft. Good luck.
Eric

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

Try these: 7/8" 13 Tooth Splined L-099 Jaw Coupling Half | 3 Piece Flexible Jaw Couplers | Shaft Couplers | Power Transmission | www.surpluscenter.com , 1" L-099 Jaw Coupling Half | 3 Piece Flexible Jaw Couplers | Shaft Couplers | Power Transmission | www.surpluscenter.com ,1" L-099 Jaw Coupling Half | 3 Piece Flexible Jaw Couplers | Shaft Couplers | Power Transmission | www.surpluscenter.com . The 3 links are for the three parts needed to make a flexible coupling to go from your splined shaft to your keyed shaft. Good luck.
Eric

I’m not sure if those are rated for enough horsepower. The current engine is 22 horse, replaced the original kohler. I’m sure they have something similar though that is a bit more heavy duty

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

Gotcha. Wasn’t sure why I wasn’t getting the problem.
If you turn the engine around, you’ll have an oppos rotation and the pump will not work.

Makes sense. Probably explains the reason why they ended up with the current setup.

 

[River Valley Landscaping]

Be sure there isn’t any hidden set screws on the keyway side?

That dimple on the shaft was very suspect at first. It’s not a roll pin or a set screw though. It’s just a dimple, almost as if a grease fitting started to get drilled then just stopped. I can spin the shaft and have since got the rust off and there is nothing.

 

[mini14]

U could also cut the current bad splined section off and weld a new 13 spline section on. Or have a hydraulics shop do it. Once you remove the current coupler off. Try heating it

 

[MossRoad]

I have a PowerTrac PT425 with a 25hp Kohler in it. I have pumps on both sides of the motor. So one side has the original shaft that drives some continuous fixed volume pumps, and the other side of the engine has the screen removed and a PTO stub shaft installed to drive the variable volume drive pump.

Something like this..

Exmark/ Kohler Flywheel PTO Shaft 24 144 51-s | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Exmark/ Kohler Flywheel PTO Shaft 24 144 51-s at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.ca

As others have mentioned, rotation has to be noted.

The fixed volume pumps are bolted directly to the engine with a pump mount. The variable volume pump on the other side is connected with a lovejoy.

The beauty of the lovejoy is you can purchase one have to fit the engine shaft size and the other to fit the pump shaft size. Works great.

Good luck with your project.

 

[MTGreen]

Try surplus center out of Nebraska for couplers

 

[MossRoad]

It is a replacement motor that was in the tractor when I bought it, it’s an Allmand tractor and the company had ceased production of tractors years ago.

Neat looking machine.

 

[LD1]

Heat, or split it with a grinder and zip disc. If the coupler is stripped, you dont have to worry about ruining it.

Zip-disc across the top of the keyway.....You dont have to worry about nicking the shaft and its less grinding because thats the thinnest part of the coupler.

Then a small cold chisel or screwdriver as a wedge to open it up a bit

 

[true temper]

The shaft is all ready gaulded that’s why the coupler wont come off. Heat isn’t going to do any good. may have to cut it off to have any chance of saving the crankshaft.