Engine ideas

   / Engine ideas #81  
Hi js5020
How is your conversion coming?
I did a little more checking.
The small gear can not be broched after boring out to 1 in.
Not enouth meat left.
But I did what you was talking about cutting the sun gear shaft off about 1.00 before the gear and milled a 1/4 key way up to the gear.
Took out the set screw in the end of the shaft.
Drilled thru the shaft with a 3/8 masionary drill bit.
Also Put a counter bore in the end of the shaft.
That goes in to accept a cap screw head.
That would be used to hold the gear
You can buy a sleeve with 1.00 dia hole and 1/4 key thru it.
Slide the sleeve over the engine shaft and slide the gear into sleeve.
Then thread the cap screw into the crank shalf to hold if all together.
Hope this makes sence?
Thanks Bruce g
 
   / Engine ideas
  • Thread Starter
#82  
Hey Bruce,
Well I got busy with some other things and it got cold and stuff, but I was just looking at it the other day and thinking I should get moving. My original intent was to get a 6hp diesel, that had a 3/4 shaft but I didn't think there would still be enough "meat" left, so I came to the same basic conclusion as you did. I have however completely disassembled the machine and repainted the housings, need to get new seals for the axles. Since I have it totally apart I have been thinking about changing gear sets, it has L gearing and I was thinking about going to LI gearing, but the more I think about what I will do with the machine I think I'll just leave the L gearing into it. I have a 12 hp unit with the swiftmatic so it can do the slow speed stuff, this one is basically gonna be a mower so I think L gearing will be best.

Have you put an engine on with this method? If so how is it working out, how thick was the spacer, and does the machine feel unbalanced?

js
 
   / Engine ideas #83  
Hi js
No to answer your question.
But you have hit on something.
I got a gear from Applied Industrial Technologies that is bored to 3/4 and still room for a key.
This would work on a 3/4 shaft.
They are also where I got the sleeve.
I am thinking of making a adapter that would fit the old and yet have the ears and counterbore for the Kohler adapter.
This way all the engine bolt patterns would fit.
See the Kohler adapter fits most engines.
Then all we need is a spacer for shaft length.
Thanks Bruce g
 
   / Engine ideas #84  
Hi js
Just more thinking.
The gear will bore out to 1.00 as long as I don't put a key in it.
So if I bore out the gear to 1.00 I.d. and slide the 1.00 I.d. sleeve
over a 1.00 Rod and weld the gear to the sleeve together.
Then push the 1.00 rod out.
Then have the gear heat treated.
Then the crank would slide thru the sleeve and the gear.
On the end of the crank use a pilot bushing.
The gear would have to have a counter bore for the pilot bushing at the end.
The 1/4 key way is in the sleeve part
Mabe work ?????
Bruce g
 
   / Engine ideas
  • Thread Starter
#85  
Well I'm always kinda skidish about welding things that are heat treated or stuff that needs to run sorta true. Will it work,,, only one way to find out. I have managed to reassemble the old L and get some brandy new red paint on it, but so many other projects need to be done before it so I tinker when I can, but I am now at the point of motive power! Still kicking around the power plant, was even thinking since I have specific tasks for it, electric but I don't know at this point if I can get the run time I would like.
 
   / Engine ideas #86  
I think the gear and the sleeve are both solf.
But that is a good point.
If we weld before heat treating may work.
The late model double gears is way to go.
But you have the expence of the double gear from Gravely.
and finding a set of good double gears.
I don't know what kind of metal the sleeve and the gear are made of.
Bruce g
 
   / Engine ideas #88  
Well I have been off for a while.
I made my first adapter to put a Honda clone on a old Model L Gravely
By using a Kohler adapter and the adapter I made.
Plus use the whole planetary from a newer model including the cross over
and side actuator arms.
In order to slow the tractor down.
Also use the Gravely Double Gear and the Gravely pilot bushing.
Thanks Bruce g
 
Last edited:
   / Engine ideas #89  
I am going to try one picture.
 

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   / Engine ideas #90  
I am going to try two pictures this time.
Bruce g
 

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