Engine Oil

   / Engine Oil #1  

TVZ

Bronze Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2018
Messages
59
Tractor
MF 1726E
What's best for my 2018 MF1726E--Synthetic oil? Synthetic blend? or regular (good quality) oil?

Thnx...
 
   / Engine Oil
  • Thread Starter
#3  
The manual does not specify whether synthetic or other is best. It just says to use 5W-30. I thought I might get an answer from someone knowledgeable here...
 
   / Engine Oil #4  
I would use Rotella T6 synthetic.
 
   / Engine Oil #6  
Opinions vary on synthetic vs. blend vs. regular oil. Synthetic oils generally excel in extreme conditions and environments. With modern machinery it is much more important to use the correct API rated oil, particularly with recent emissions equipment.

My personal preference has been fully synthetic oils for many years. YMMV
 
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   / Engine Oil #7  
5w30 is what I used in the VW TDI for near 7 years and near 70k miles, changed every 10k miles. Used same 5w30 Castrol from VW dealer in JD 2025R and Isuzu generator. Can get 0w30 M1 EsP from Advance Auto now. That's what is in the 2025R now.
 
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   / Engine Oil #8  
If you check with a distributor I think you'll find 5W-30 is a synthetic blend whether it says so or not.
 
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   / Engine Oil #10  
Why is this still a question in 2021? Use synthetic, be happy.
 
   / Engine Oil #11  
The manual does not specify whether synthetic or other is best. It just says to use 5W-30. I thought I might get an answer from someone knowledgeable here...
It doesn't say because MF is being honest.

There are no performance criteria an oil must meet to be sold as synthetic. No performance criteria any different than for a refined oil.

To be sold as synthetic all that is required is the use of "industry accepted synthetic manufacturing processes." There is no requirement of the product produced.

Superior oils can be made with synthetic processes but the use of synthetic processes is no assurance of a superior motor oil.
 
   / Engine Oil #12  
The synthetic oil is important if you will operate in extreme temperatures, and or, want longer drain intervals. Otherwise, there isn't any substantial benefit.

If you are not sure, just use the synthetic. It's not like it's expensive anymore. You can get Rotella for almost the same price.
 
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   / Engine Oil #13  
The synthetic oil is important if you will operate in extreme temperatures, and or, want longer drain intervals. Otherwise, there isn't any substantial benefit.

If you are not sure, just use the synthetic. It's not like it's expensive anymore. You can get Rotella for almost the same price.
Your confidence is inspiring (not). So just who holds motor oil suppliers' feet to the fire to keep them honest? What SAE, API, JASO, ANSI, ACEA ILSAC, John Deere, Kubota, GM, Ford, or any specification or certification stipulating the terms, requirements, and tests to verify your claims?

The only definition of "synthetic motor oil" was hammered out in a private court of binding arbitration between the advertising departments of Mobil-1 and Castrol. So it got defined in advertising terms as, "manufactured using accepted synthetic processes" with no stipulation as to what gets produced. Deliberately marketing vague to let you imagine benefits they don't actually have to deliver.

"Everyone knows 93 octane is better in every way over 87!" is another marketing spin letting your imagination run wild. Some brands dump extra detergents in their premium priced grades. Most do not, riding on how others have convinced you to automatically buy the most expensive. And not that you actually benefit from the added detergent.

Superior motor oils can be made using synthetic processes but use of synthetic processes is no assurance of a superior motor oil.

You can not purchase "synthetic" and be assured of getting any added benefits. However there are products with good reputations, many of which are synthetically manufactured. I use Mobil-1 in my car and truck because it is Mobil-1, has served well, and returns good UOA reports. It just so happens to say "synthetic" on the bottle.

Rotella-T used to be an excellent motorcycle oil but some time in the past 5-10 years it has gone sour. My transmission simply did not shift smoothly. "But I don't understand! It is synthetic!" Conventional Yamalube works much better.

There are standards for extended-drain motor oils, but those standards do not stipulate "synthetic". Research ACEA grades.
 
   / Engine Oil #14  
Your confidence is inspiring (not). So just who holds motor oil suppliers' feet to the fire to keep them honest? What SAE, API, JASO, ANSI, ACEA ILSAC, John Deere, Kubota, GM, Ford, or any specification or certification stipulating the terms, requirements, and tests to verify your claims?

The only definition of "synthetic motor oil" was hammered out in a private court of binding arbitration between the advertising departments of Mobil-1 and Castrol. So it got defined in advertising terms as, "manufactured using accepted synthetic processes" with no stipulation as to what gets produced. Deliberately marketing vague to let you imagine benefits they don't actually have to deliver.

"Everyone knows 93 octane is better in every way over 87!" is another marketing spin letting your imagination run wild. Some brands dump extra detergents in their premium priced grades. Most do not, riding on how others have convinced you to automatically buy the most expensive. And not that you actually benefit from the added detergent.

Superior motor oils can be made using synthetic processes but use of synthetic processes is no assurance of a superior motor oil.

You can not purchase "synthetic" and be assured of getting any added benefits. However there are products with good reputations, many of which are synthetically manufactured. I use Mobil-1 in my car and truck because it is Mobil-1, has served well, and returns good UOA reports. It just so happens to say "synthetic" on the bottle.

Rotella-T used to be an excellent motorcycle oil but some time in the past 5-10 years it has gone sour. My transmission simply did not shift smoothly. "But I don't understand! It is synthetic!" Conventional Yamalube works much better.

There are standards for extended-drain motor oils, but those standards do not stipulate "synthetic". Research ACEA grades.
As usual, you can post the sky is blue on TBN, and someone will tell you that it's wrong.

Not interested in a debate, there are hundreds of oil threads on TBN, perhaps you can find one there.
 
   / Engine Oil #15  
Amsoil full synthetic oils beat all others in terms of oxidation resistance, volatility, lower friction and wear and overall longevity. I would never use anything else unless the engine leaked like a sieve. No, I do not work for Amsoil. But I have seen many comparative test reports by independent labs. And I have been using it personally on cars, trucks and tractors for about 35 years.
 
   / Engine Oil #16  
For what it's worth I put Rotella T6 in my first oil change. There was zero oil needing to be added over the year. Went with Shaeffers full synthetic next, which is a really good oil. However I had to add a few oz throughout the year at times. I am going back to T6 this time.
 
   / Engine Oil #17  
Why is this still a question in 2021? Use synthetic, be happy.
What would we do without oil threads? :cool:

I actually do not mind them, even though they never result in anywhere near consensus.
 

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