Oil & Fuel Engine Using Oil

[bill18163]

I have a BX1860 that my wife uses to cut our grass. That's all this tractor is used for,just to cut the grass. It has 80 hours on it. The engine burns some oil. I found it down half way on the dip stick once and about a fourth of the way down another time. I have two other Kubota tractors, a L3940 and a B2710 and they dont burn a drop of oil between oil changes. Could this be something particular to the smaller Kubota engines? Anyone else seeing this in their small Kubota tractor?

 

[DiezNutz]

Has it always used oil? (e.g., rings never really seated properly)
Or is this recent? (e.g., broken ring?)

 

[dodge man]

I've got a BX2350, 280 hours, and at most, I have had to add half a quart of oil between changes.

 

[sweettractors]

If you don't find the problem, some "Lucas" additive at oil changes will probably stop that small amount of usage. Ken Sweet

 

[TripleR]

I bought a BX2200 in 03 and sold it to my son in law when I bought my BX2660, neither has burned any oil.

 

[DiezNutz]

Bill, I guess a lot depends on how often you've been checking the dipstick when you find it 1/4 or 1/2 down. Between oil changes that amount wouldn't be abnormal on a new engine.

 

[Texas Fella]

Sounds like the rings need to be seated. Make sure you get the unit up to operating temperature and then go mow some really heavy grass, make the engine bough down a little bit, see if that helps.

 

[kuboman]

Sounds like the rings need to be seated. Make sure you get the unit up to operating temperature and then go mow some really heavy grass, make the engine bough down a little bit, see if that helps.

Yes it sounds like a bad break in. Get your self some JD Break-in oil and use it till it stops using oil then switch back to your regular oil. John deere recommends doing this for engines that got a poor break in. Also make sure to work it hard and up to temp as it is temp and pressure on the rings that makes them seat.

 

[funwithahoe]

Yes it sounds like a bad break in. Get your self some JD Break-in oil and use it till it stops using oil then switch back to your regular oil. John deere recommends doing this for engines that got a poor break in. Also make sure to work it hard and up to temp as it is temp and pressure on the rings that makes them seat.

Are you saying you should work the engine hard to break in properly? I think my manual said to try to not run the engine at high RPM's for the first 50 hours.

 

[kuboman]

Are you saying you should work the engine hard to break in properly? I think my manual said to try to not run the engine at high RPM's for the first 50 hours.

Just going on what Deere recommends. That is to gradually ramp up to 75-80% load after a brief run in which is usually done on a dino of about 2 hours. The idea is to get enough heat and pressure on the rings for them to seat properly.
I have done this with several large JD engines and have had good luck. None ended up burning oil at all. Don't see why a Kubota would be any different. I have run in multiple Kubotas using JD's method and none of them burn a drop.
Idling a new engine will cause problems so after warm up put them to work.

 

[Egon]

Maybe talk to the Dealer.

 

[DiezNutz]

Are you saying you should work the engine hard to break in properly? I think my manual said to try to not run the engine at high RPM's for the first 50 hours.

Yes, you are both correct.

You can, and should, work the engine hard (after proper warmup!) AND this can be done without using high RPMs. Kubo never said to run it wide open, and he is correct that the rings need pressure (from being under load) to seat. Diesels are slow to seat anyway. You should also avoid running it at a constant rpm for an extended period of time; adjust the throttle occasionally.
At the same time, do NOT lug it... use a high enough rpm to do the job. It needs a load yes, but making it struggle will lead to other damage.

Trying to baby a new engine only causes the rings to wear without really seating, and that leads to compression loss. Eventually they'll seat but some of their useful life will be already spent.

 

[sweettractors]

On Engine rebuilds, We always seat rings on the Dyno, while varying the throttle and Dyno load, during the process. Ken Sweet

 

[wdchyd]

On Engine rebuilds, We always seat rings on the Dyno, while varying the throttle and Dyno load, during the process. Ken Sweet

That sounds "Cool":thumbsup:.....are they tested on a test fixture out of the tractor or on the tractor tested thru the drivetrain?

 

[sweettractors]

That sounds "Cool":thumbsup:.....are they tested on a test fixture out of the tractor or on the tractor tested thru the drivetrain?

Through the drivetrain, That lets us checkout the PTO as well. Ken Sweet

 

[sw03]

Yes, you are both correct.

You can, and should, work the engine hard (after proper warmup!) AND this can be done without using high RPMs. Kubo never said to run it wide open, and he is correct that the rings need pressure (from being under load) to seat. Diesels are slow to seat anyway. You should also avoid running it at a constant rpm for an extended period of time; adjust the throttle occasionally.
At the same time, do NOT lug it... use a high enough rpm to do the job. It needs a load yes, but making it struggle will lead to other damage.

Trying to baby a new engine only causes the rings to wear without really seating, and that leads to compression loss. Eventually they'll seat but some of their useful life will be already spent.

I agree for the most...I say use it like you want. I did not follow the manual on the new kubota (BX24) and neither on my old 22. Never had an issues (using oil etc). Even new diesel trucks, cars etc.

My current BX24 over 250 hours does not move off the stick and break-in, what is that...

But, if the guy as a slow break in whom cares. Yea more wear could happen but what is that in the long term? 10000 to 1, not gonna mean a thing. He might get higher wears if he did UOA and some extra fuel lose. I would worry more about the War of the Worlds then this...LOL