Equipment Barn Started

[MarkV]

Thanks all for the milling information. Not sure why I hadn’t considered custom sawing for the trees I need to remove.

Clyde, given that you do custom sawing I had a couple of questions you might be able to help me with. I understand there are many variables so just general guidelines are what I am asking. Is there an amateur ball park way of guessing how many board feet a given log can produce after sawing? I look at my 30 big, to me, trees and can’t get an idea if they represent hundreds of hours of sawing and mountains of lumber or not. How does the cost of that 2x4x8’ stud at the home center compare to the one you just paid to have sawed? How long before this is useable lumber for framing and siding rough projects like pole barns and sheds? What is the procedure and time frame required to make it useable lumber if any?

Thanks,
MarkV

 

[Clyde]

Mark - There are 3 scales used in estimating bd ft in a given log...the Scribner, Doyle, and International. I use the Doyle for the simple reason that few logs are perfect and with ideal conditions, the customer comes real close to the estimates he expected. A log, measured from the small end and inside the bark, across the face, plus the length of the log will give you a close estimate. A website, www.PENN-SYLVAN.COM has the Doyle scale on their site. Because the Woodmizer, along with the other bandsaws, have such a small kerf and waste compared to the circular blades, you can expect up to 20% over scale. Sawing your own log, the 2X4X8' stud will run you approximately .50 cents. Example - if you have a log 18" in diameter and 8' long, that log will yield 98 bd ft. A 2X4X8' is 5.3 bd ft. Remember that the stud is only as good as the tree it was sawed from. Big knots in the face of the stud might make it useless for framing. It isn't like going to the lumberyard and picking out what you want. Properly stacked and stickered, a pile of wood will decently airdry in 3 - 4 years. I know some guys swear that they had no problems using the wood after one year. Of course you could speed up the process by taking it to a kiln and that usually runs about 15 to 20 cents a bd ft around here. For a pole shed or a building that won't have drywall or plaster attached to the studs - you might probably use it within a years time.

I hope this helps Mark, any more questions and I'll try to answer them. Best of luck Clyde

 

[buckeyefarmer]

What a cool saw.

I go thru leesburg all the time, would it be possible to see the saw?

 

[MarkV]

Clyde, thank you that was very helpful! Appreciate you taking the time to reply.

MarkV

 

[dmartin88]

Sent you a PM with contact details, no problem dropping by.

 

[dmartin88]

Wanted to post some shots of progress on the barn from the last week or two. This one shows some of the forms going in to support the beams- Bill the contractor used the BX22 to dig the holes, he was quite impressed!

 

[dmartin88]

Here's one of Bill cutting a form, looking back from what will be the door of the barn- shop is on the right.

 

[dmartin88]

Here's one of the notching in one of the main oak beams.

 

[dmartin88]

Last one for today. Standing by the shop looking in to the barn. These are some of the main posts that will be put in place tomorrow morning. The posts will be set on a piece of pressure treated 2X that is on top of the concrete footing. A piece of rebar extends from the concrete, through the pressure treated wood and about 6" into a hole in the bottom of the post. The cross beams will be 2X12X24, pressure treated to fit in to the notches on the posts. The cross beams are at about the 8' level so I can drive underneath them with the ROPS up on the BX22.

Will post more later with progress.

 

[dmartin88]

Here's a shot of the main posts and beams going up for the center section of the equipment barn.

 

[inveresk]

Thatl's nice work. It's terrific to see a timber frame go up in the same way that barns were historicaly built. There's real pride of ownership in a structure like that.

Did you kiln dry or air dry your oak? Green oak structures are now quite common but I don't like the resultant splits in the wood that develop.

 

[Clyde]

dmartin88 - your post and beam barn will be a work of art when you're done with it. Also the satisfaction of cutting your own trees, sawing your own beams and boards, and then building it has to be a great feeling of accomplishment. A lot of the old barns standing today are testimonials of the craftmanship that went into them and you are preserving that art for generations to come. Congrats to you on your project and thanks for sharing your project - Clyde

 

[dmartin88]

The wood is generally green, the posts have come mainly from logs that have been down for 5-8 years but because of their size, are still green. I know we'll have some splits, etc. because of this but in the end, I don't want to forget it's an equipment barn!

I hope to have the same builder put up a gazebo this fall and planning to handle the wood for that project differently. We're toying with the idea of putting up a solar kiln this spring and could then dry most of the wood that way for more finished projects and for some furniture, etc. I'd like to do next winter.

Just as a reminder, I'm not doing this work myself but I am trying to document it- I provide the funding and some tools, the mill, etc. but the guy doing the barn seems to be enjoying the work. I sneak out and watch (help?) when I can and have learned a bit about cutting logs but the work is theirs. Bill has some help this week and part of the reason they're helping is because they get a chance to do some timber frame construction which they all enjoy. I looked through a photo album of work they have done and some of it is amazing- one arched roof for a single family house was a work of art.

I'd also say that they're using modified timber framing practices in that they're using modern bolts to hold this one together rather than wooden pegs, really couldn't justify that much labor time for a barn although it would have looked impressive.

Thanks to all for the comments, will be taking some more pictures later as the work progresses.

 

[dmartin88]

Here's a picture of a timber maul the guys made when they need to do some minor adjustments. Head is 8"X8"X12"!

 

[dmartin88]

Some detail on the upper portion of the barn. This is where the louvers will be and where I plan to air dry wood.

 

[dmartin88]

On each side of the barn, there will be a 4'X8' bump where I will be able to sit implements for the tractor like a rear blade, box blade, etc. that will get them off the main floor. The backhoe should sit in one of these as well.

 

[dmartin88]

Here's a shot from the deck showing the barn structure about halfs completed. Have to built out the left side to match, then the upper structure, and then will be able to move to roofing/siding.

May lose a couple of days, calling for 6-10" of snow here today through tomorrow morning so Monday might be a bit of a challenge to get any progress.

 

[dmartin88]

A wider perspective to show where the barn sits in relation to the shop.

 

[dmartin88]

Still moving along slowly- framing is all up and starting the decking for the roof. Probably will have to mill a couple of more logs to have enough to finish the decking, plan is to do that this week. One new picture attached.

 

[rox]

Really pretty building, even nicer than your shop!
Many thanks for sharing your project with us on TBN.
Wondering if you are going to put any heating in?
Really enjoying your project thank you for taking the time to take the photo's, resize them down to less than 100K, and then posting them. I always appreciate people who spend their precious time in order to share with us. Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif