Equipment Barn Started

[MarkV]

Thanks all for the milling information. Not sure why I hadn’t considered custom sawing for the trees I need to remove.

Clyde, given that you do custom sawing I had a couple of questions you might be able to help me with. I understand there are many variables so just general guidelines are what I am asking. Is there an amateur ball park way of guessing how many board feet a given log can produce after sawing? I look at my 30 big, to me, trees and can’t get an idea if they represent hundreds of hours of sawing and mountains of lumber or not. How does the cost of that 2x4x8’ stud at the home center compare to the one you just paid to have sawed? How long before this is useable lumber for framing and siding rough projects like pole barns and sheds? What is the procedure and time frame required to make it useable lumber if any?

Thanks,
MarkV

 

[Clyde]

Mark - There are 3 scales used in estimating bd ft in a given log...the Scribner, Doyle, and International. I use the Doyle for the simple reason that few logs are perfect and with ideal conditions, the customer comes real close to the estimates he expected. A log, measured from the small end and inside the bark, across the face, plus the length of the log will give you a close estimate. A website, www.PENN-SYLVAN.COM has the Doyle scale on their site. Because the Woodmizer, along with the other bandsaws, have such a small kerf and waste compared to the circular blades, you can expect up to 20% over scale. Sawing your own log, the 2X4X8' stud will run you approximately .50 cents. Example - if you have a log 18" in diameter and 8' long, that log will yield 98 bd ft. A 2X4X8' is 5.3 bd ft. Remember that the stud is only as good as the tree it was sawed from. Big knots in the face of the stud might make it useless for framing. It isn't like going to the lumberyard and picking out what you want. Properly stacked and stickered, a pile of wood will decently airdry in 3 - 4 years. I know some guys swear that they had no problems using the wood after one year. Of course you could speed up the process by taking it to a kiln and that usually runs about 15 to 20 cents a bd ft around here. For a pole shed or a building that won't have drywall or plaster attached to the studs - you might probably use it within a years time.

I hope this helps Mark, any more questions and I'll try to answer them. Best of luck Clyde

 

[buckeyefarmer]

What a cool saw.

I go thru leesburg all the time, would it be possible to see the saw?

 

[MarkV]

Clyde, thank you that was very helpful! Appreciate you taking the time to reply.

MarkV

 

[dmartin88]

Sent you a PM with contact details, no problem dropping by.

 

[dmartin88]

Wanted to post some shots of progress on the barn from the last week or two. This one shows some of the forms going in to support the beams- Bill the contractor used the BX22 to dig the holes, he was quite impressed!

 

[dmartin88]

Here's one of Bill cutting a form, looking back from what will be the door of the barn- shop is on the right.

 

[dmartin88]

Here's one of the notching in one of the main oak beams.

 

[dmartin88]

Last one for today. Standing by the shop looking in to the barn. These are some of the main posts that will be put in place tomorrow morning. The posts will be set on a piece of pressure treated 2X that is on top of the concrete footing. A piece of rebar extends from the concrete, through the pressure treated wood and about 6" into a hole in the bottom of the post. The cross beams will be 2X12X24, pressure treated to fit in to the notches on the posts. The cross beams are at about the 8' level so I can drive underneath them with the ROPS up on the BX22.

Will post more later with progress.

 

[dmartin88]

Here's a shot of the main posts and beams going up for the center section of the equipment barn.