EV Charging - how to adjust charging amperage?

[scootr]

I have that same old 10-50P in my garage, old 50a welder circuit I ran in 25 yrs ago.
I'm resisting getting the higher 32a charger after reading a bunch of charging discussions which basically showed charging at a lower amperage stressed the battery less and slowed battery degradation vs supercharging or high home charging.... but that is a discussion that can go on and on and on.

 

[ponytug]

Ponytug, I found that dongle diagram and it's the prior model of charger. The 2025 Equinox OEM dongle goes into an approximately square socket on the charger brick.

Scooter, at $350 to $500 included in her new car price for this charger brick, I'll try to make it work. I've read it pulls 32 amps natively, which I think is too much for this old farm wiring.

The updated Equinox charger brick we have, has a 14-50 dongle so I bought the adapter to get from that to my 10-50 'dryer' outlet. This works great but I still want to reduce the amperage going through it.

Sorry I pulled the wrong part, but you want a 14-30 dongle for reduced current. The ones above look like they just adapts
the plug to your socket, but I do not believe it tells the brick to reduce the charge rate. True?

All the best, Peter

 

[California]

I agree, I don't think the choice of dongles determines amperage.

I can't find the specific information to reduce charge current, but as Scooter said, that would be better for battery longevity.

Also in our case, pulling less current will be safer for the non-code never inspected wiring here - my primary objective. The Federal Pacific panels and breakers are a known fire hazard, long off the market.

At any rate daughter's Equinox is now charged to 100% for her return home.

 

[Quaffer]

The Federal Pacific panels and breakers are a known fire hazard, long off the market.

Why don't you just replace the panel? Seems like a prudent thing to do even without the EV issue. These panels remind me of Zinsco ...

 

[California]

Why don't you just replace the panel? Seems like a prudent thing to do even without the EV issue. These panels remind me of Zinsco ...

Everything here is poor condition, not just the panels. Its all knob & tube wiring in the walls, touch it and the hardened tar insulation falls off. This small farmhouse is so primitive that the bathroom was the first add-on. Dad's advice was just bulldoze it when he was gone, that's the advice I'm telling my kids now.

The used Federal Pacific panels that were installed in the 1960's (without inspection) upgraded service to 200 amps 240v, I think this was for the 'modern' submersible pump in the well dug at that time.

Here's an example in the basement, showing first-generation (1920's?) wiring, extended to a lamp socket using cotton covered lamp cord. Starting any project here, encounters stuff like this. I think the 1960's cabling out to the barn is adequate gauge for the EV charger there, but the quality of that project's workmanship is suspicious. So I want to reduce the EV charge amperage to where it seems safe to leave it on overnight.

Added: I should note this isn't our primary home. We have a decent house in town. This was grandparents, then Dad's, now my, retirement hobby farm (apple orchard). So upgrading anything isn't a major priority. Just patching stuff for continued usability is our preference. As I noted, this really should have been bulldozed a generation ago.

 

[scootr]

I think buying a 16 amp amazon charger is the prudent thing to do given the age and condition of the house wiring. Running anything to max capacity has risks. Risks that are avoidable. 220v 16a is all I use. Works great, reduces battery stress and system stress. Costs less than $150 Amazon. What's not to like about this solution?

 

[Quaffer]

Everything here is poor condition, not just the panels.

Understood about old properties.

But, just sayin, it's pretty inexpensive and simple to change out a panel. Eliminates one possible point of fire or failure. Not so much to redo all the wiring.

You could also always consider getting a diesel generator and recharging it from that!

GL-11000 | GL Series | 60Hz | Products | Kubota Generator

 

[California]

Daughter has departed, 100% charged.

She visits every few weeks, so I think what we have is sufficient for her visits.

We'll use 12amps on a recently installed 20 amp 110v circuit for overnight charging, and the 240v charger (32 amps??) for daytime charging where we can keep an eye on it.

If/when I buy an EV, I'll get a pro electrician out here to review what we have.

I'm still searching for how to adjust the amps requested by the Equinox.

 

[ponytug]

Daughter has departed, 100% charged.

She visits every few weeks, so I think what we have is sufficient for her visits.

We'll use 12amps on a recently installed 20 amp 110v circuit for overnight charging, and the 240v charger (32 amps??) for daytime charging where we can keep an eye on it.

If/when I buy an EV, I'll get a pro electrician out here to review what we have.

I'm still searching for how to adjust the amps requested by the Equinox.

Using the better 20A circuit to charge at 12A sounds like a good plan in the interim. I'm glad your daughter got away OK.

There are some simple service items for the Federal Pacific bus bars, and a revised busbar if you want to go that route.

FWIW: The GM "cord dongle / shortie cord/adapter " contains electronic smarts that tell the car to limit the charging via an electronic handshake at power up what the outlet is capable of- it is part of the car charging standards. The yellow ones just adapt prongs, and do not have anything to tell the car that the outlet is less powerful.

All the best,

Peter

 

[LouNY]

This would suggest that the 30A circuit requires the GM 30A dongle (shortie cord) for the brick to turn down the charge current;

https://www.equinoxevforum.com/threads/can-we-lower-l2-240v-charge-rate-down-to-24-amps.2039/

E.g. this shorty cord for her brick;
View attachment 3221581

And of course a new NEMA 14-30 outlet...
View attachment 3221580

All the best,

Peter

That is for the "old" style Chevy brick. The new ones do not have that configuration. (Closed the page before I was done, fat fingers.)
You have found the correct information the "latest" Chevy charger does allow two currant choices when plugged into a 120 volt circuit using the my Chevy app. However it does not on the 240 volt operation, in that configuration it can and will pull a max of 32 amps.
My wife's is plugged into the welder receptacle in our attached garage, which fortunately is wired adequately to handle the constant current draw of 32 amps.