Everlast PA300 Rookie

[Underdog57]

square1 this calculator by Miller might be of some help to you.
I spent years welding galvanized structural steel, just set up a small fan to blow the smoke away from your face.

Miller - Stick Welding Calculator

Thanks SA, that is a great tool! Now I have another question, I bought some 6011 rods and from what the calculator said I should be using 6010 with my DC machine, is there that much difference or should I just burn it up and buy 6010 next time. I plan on basically using just 2 rods, 6010 root pass and 7018 on top, is that a good method? :confused3::confused3:

 

[rankrank1]

Thanks SA, that is a great tool! Now I have another question, I bought some 6011 rods and from what the calculator said I should be using 6010 with my DC machine, is there that much difference or should I just burn it up and buy 6010 next time. I plan on basically using just 2 rods, 6010 root pass and 7018 on top, is that a good method? :confused3::confused3:

In general most any rod that will burn on AC will typically burn about 15% better on DC (again in general terms). 6011 is a very close cousin to 6010 and basically is a 6010 rod slightly enhanced slightly altered so it will run on AC. 6010 is a DC only rod. 6011 can burn on AC or DC due to its enhancements. 6011 you can find anywhere that sells a few welding supplies as it will run on pretty much any power supply so box stores stock it. 6010 will be harder to find and you will likely find it at LWS and in large 25 lb or 50 lb tins to boot.

So long story short, use 6010 if you practicing for future professional code level work as most codes spec 6010. Otherwise, 6011 is fine to be used on your DC output machine. 6011 is also slightly more ductile than 6010 too which is a good thing.

Initial passes with 6011 and then capping with either 7018 or even 7018AC (which you can also run on DC) would work fine. Or you could even use 6011 and cap with 7014 for backyard work if low hydren properties not needed.

 

[Underdog57]

In general most any rod that will burn on AC will typically burn about 15% better on DC (again in general terms). 6011 is a very close cousin to 6010 and basically is a 6010 rod slightly enhanced slightly altered so it will run on AC. 6010 is a DC only rod. 6011 can burn on AC or DC due to its enhancements. 6011 you can find anywhere that sells a few welding supplies as it will run on pretty much any power supply so box stores stock it. 6010 will be harder to find and you will likely find it at LWS and in large 25 lb or 50 lb tins to boot.

So long story short, use 6010 if you practicing for future professional code level work as most codes spec 6010. Otherwise, 6011 is fine to be used on your DC output machine. 6011 is also slightly more ductile than 6010 too which is a good thing.

Initial passes with 6011 and then capping with either 7018 or even 7018AC (which you can also run on DC) would work fine. Or you could even use 6011 and cap with 7014 for backyard work if low hydren properties not needed.

Thanks for the info, that clears it up for me. Now I have to ask, where would "low hydrogen properties" be needed?

 

[Shield Arc]

I've played around with different brands of 6010, and Hobart's 335A 6011. Same joint prep, same amps. Believe it or not, I got better penetration with Hobart's 335A 6011.

Use 7018 when ever you can, but especially on things that may be in an impact situation. A while back I did some fillet weld break tests. 7018 out performed all the other rods hands down.
Here are the results.

6013 broke with only 3-blows of a 4-pound hammer.
6011 = 8-blows.
7014 = 10-blows.
6010 5P-Plus = 10-blows.
7018 cold never seen the inside of an oven = 18-blows.
7018 right out of the oven = 23-blows.

 

[Underdog57]

Did some more practicing yesterday, my flat welds look pretty good, but I am having a hard time with vertical up. I watched several YouTube videos but still having trouble. I am using some dirty steel, could that be one of the problems? I tried 6011 3/32 & 1/8" and 7018 3/32 & 1/8" between 80-140 amps and was having a hard time seeing the puddle below the arc. Any tips or suggestions, Please?

 

[gwdixon]

Did some more practicing yesterday, my flat welds look pretty good, but I am having a hard time with vertical up. I watched several YouTube videos but still having trouble. I am using some dirty steel, could that be one of the problems? I tried 6011 3/32 & 1/8" and 7018 3/32 & 1/8" between 80-140 amps and was having a hard time seeing the puddle below the arc. Any tips or suggestions, Please?

View attachment 375624

Welding flat beads on a vertical up weld is quite difficult. Practice on "T" joints by going across/pause/across/pause etc. You'll see MUCH better results.

If you want to see some excellent videos check out "Welding Tips and Tricks".

Welding Tips and Tricks - TIG, MIG, Stick and a pantload of other info

Scroll down the page and "Stick Welding" will come up. You want to look at the "3G" welding position.

EDIT: Also, try Google for "stick welding 3g video"

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

That's a little too hot for 6011 for both rods. You need probably about 20% less heat. It looks too hot all the way around.
But you have to hold the rod right in the puddle on vertical. Let the arc force control do its thing. Don't think about even pausing or trying to fill the middle, just swipe it across to the side, and let the puddle fill from the side toward the middle for about a second. Don't rush across, mind you but don't stop moving either . In other words worry about welding the sides of the weld and hold a close arc. The slag may look like it is dropping off, that's fine, it'll collect enough protection...but you need to see the difference in the melted slag and the actual melted metal. This is hard for a lot of people, being able to detect the actual molten puddle of metal versus the melted slag.
If the metal fills, it too will eventually slide off the shelf of metal you have built and sag if not glop off in one big molten ball if the puddle is over filled.

 

[square1]

Been feeling like I git run over by a Typhoon since Friday but wanted so badly to try out the new welder. Talk about buttery smooth! I'm going to have to turn it down though. Ran some 3/32 6013 at ~50 amps and some 1/8 7018 at ~100 amps with the Arc Force & Hot start both at the mid point around some 1/8 wall pipe. Most buttery smooth holes I've ever blown in metal If I felt better at all I'd have messed around with some settings, but it isn't happening today...

 

[Arc weld]

Vertical up 6010/6011 uses a different technique than other rods and is generally harder to master. For first pass you use a whipping motion, then you use a "U shape weave. Other than in school, I've never done a multi-pass vertical up 6010. I'll use 6010 for the root, followed by 7018. 6010 can be used downhand for some applications because of its penetration and fast freeze characteristics. Pipelines are done downhand.

 

[Underdog57]

Thanks for the input about verticle up, I think I know what to try now, I guess I need to lower the amps down to about 50-60 A ? Should I have the Arc Force turned way up? I probably won't have time to try again till Sat.

Another question, I think Mark said the leads on the PA300 are #2 cable. I want to make 50' extension leads, could I make them with #2 cable or should I use #1 cable? I don't think I'll ever weld anything above 200 A.

By the way I am a newbie and I value the comments and critique of all the pro's and highly experianced welders here, reading this forum is what convinced me to take up the "sport" of welding and buy a new welder and start welding again for the first time in 30 yrs. I very much look forward to reading you guys posts, please don't stop, this kind of info is priceless. You have my vote (you all know what I'm talking about):thumbsup: