F.E. Myers Air Blast Orchard Sprayer Information

[r8f1k]

Not sure what pressure that sprayer is designed to run at , probably in the 150-200 range . I pretty much run my turbo mist diaphragm pump system at 150psi with occasional spikes to around 200. Years ago I had a FMC sprayer with piston pump that as I recall I ran at 300 working pressure. As long as the pvc pipe is rated to handle the sprayers working pressure I guess I don’t see why it couldn’t work, don’t think I’ve seen it used in sprayers though. Is that Myers pump a piston pump? and do you know what pressures the system is designed to run at ?

I really don't know what the PSI is supposed to be at. It is a piston pump, not sure how much it can make either. I will tell you that the pump probably weighs 100lbs by itself. After looking at it a little closer, it looks to me like someone has been in this pump before. The seals look newer and the gaskets look like they have been changed at one time. I should also mention that the pump was 'winterized' pretty well. The pump had all the pipe plugs removed from the upper and lower sections of the pump.

I wouldn't mind doing the plumbing over again in galvanized, I just don't want to do it and 5 years later it is rusty........I've been looking for stainless pipe, but it is VERY expensive.

 

[r8f1k]

Update: The pump is out and I have the 'head' off of the pump. There were 6 smaller diameter caps that held back 6 light springs and some shallow cups. I removed all the parts, pulled out the o-rings and tossed them into my vibratory parts cleaner. There were 3 larger 1-1/2" diameter caps in the center that covered the pistons, I pulled those off and set them off to the side, they are a little big for the parts cleaner. All of the o-rings seems pretty standard, nothing crazy. I will measure and order them accordingly.

The cylinders had 3 pistons, all 3 were in good shape but while I have them out, I would like to replace the 2 seals that are on them. They look like I could get them at a hydraulic rebuilder I use. I will post pictures tomorrow.

Someone has definitely been in this pump at least one other time before. There are newer SKF seals and RTV used in spots that probably had paper gaskets. I am thinking of leaving the lower end alone. Oil looks clean, rods are shiny and smooth. I am thinking that a good clean top end and some new seals and it will be good to go.

After a good once over on the sprayer, I decided to stick with galvanized pipe. Today, I bought all new 1-1/2" pipe for the feed line from the tank to the pump. The old sections of pipe were ok, but they had a lot of build up in them, I figured just replace and move on. The filter housing needs some cleaning and descaling, lots of rust in there even though it was open. I remade the 'manifold' that connected everything from the tank to the pump and it should be pretty easy to install onto the pump once it's 'rebuilt'.

The next step is to address the 3/4" feeds to the sprayer ring around the fan and the 1/4" sprayer nozzles. The previous owner broke about 5 of the sprayer nozzle pipe nipples at some point and they stuffed wooden plugs in the holes. There is going to be a little bit of a challenge getting the broken threads out.....I'm thinking my induction heater and a plug extractor will do it. Once the sprayer nipples and broken threads are out, I was going to blast out the pipe with compressed air both ways and then power wash them out. After that, I am going to plug up the sprayer nozzle ports, add temporary stand pipes to the opposite end and fill the system up with vinegar and let it soak for a few days. That should free up any excess rust and make it as ready as it can be for a test run.

 

[r8f1k]

Here are some photos of the pistons

 

[r8f1k]

 

[r8f1k]

Not sure what to call the rubber cups that screw down onto the piston brass body. Any thoughts on where to source?

 

[Seven Gables]

Nice work, those pistons look very much like what my FMC piston pump used . We always referred to the cups as the leathers. I had a special tool that fit in the slots of that clamping nut. I don’t think those leathers will be too hard to find. My FMC pump used ceramic cylinders for the leathers to slide and seal in. If you’re cylinders are ceramic be very careful with them and make sure there not cracked or chipped.
I always let the new leathers set in some hot water for a few minutes before install as that softened them and made much easier.

 

[r8f1k]

My cylinders are steel/cast iron. Hard to tell if they are part of the casting or pressing in sleeves. I’m leaning towards pressed in sleeves based on the shape and machining. I will look for leathers, the most common size for the shape I have is 76mm, mine would be between 52-54mm. Not sure what the original dimensions were.

I also mounted new tires on the sprayer today after a good power washing. The back of the machine still needs some hosing off, but it looks way better.

 

[r8f1k]

Update: Still haven't found any rubber/leather cups for the pump. The units I have look pretty good, but after all the tearing into it, I would like to find new units. I also bought new unions for the sprayer on the 3/4" pressure side to replace some crusty units currently on the unit. I think I am going to completely revamp the manifold that has the mechanical valves in it simply to make it easier to service and drain down the road. I am also going to add 4 compact 1/4" NPT ball valves to the cylinder head to drain it instead of the pipe plugs currently in the unit.

Question: There are 8 total 3V500 individual belts that are driven from the pump to a jack shaft that operate the agitator and the fan. I see there are 8-3V500 banded belts instead of 8 individual units. I am going to use the existing belts for the initial testing and replace when it is time to start spraying this spring. Would a banded belt be preferable?

Question: The pressure gauge on this sprayer goes up to 600 PSI. Is that what it CAN make? I can't imagine that is the PSI output when spraying. That seems kinda high. I assume the solenoid valves I buy have to go at least to that rating?

Question: Are the brass sections lowered into the cylinder without the cups installed and then the cups are installed from the top and tightened down to a certain amount of pressure to ensure a good seal?

 

[Seven Gables]

I think either style of belts will work.
As far as pump pressure that pump will make way more pressure than you want to spray with, as I remember, only been about 30 years , my FMC piston pump was capable of 1000psi or more, that Myers may be too. I like to run 150psi and the spray nozzles will be sized according to this pressure to give gpa I want for the speed I’m traveling and row spacing of orchard.
As I mentioned before I prefer the motor operated ball valves by TeeJet , I’ve had solenoid operated and were more problematic. My TeeJet valves are rated for 300psi I believe., which is plenty.
As I recall the leathers needed to be driven into the cylinders with a good sized hammer and steel pipe that fit into the cup , then the nut was tightened down on top . I don’t remember having a torque spec , maybe there is , I just snugged them up good and tight.
Pictures along with your questions would be very helpful

 

[r8f1k]

I will get some photos ASAP