Factor Top N Tilt Kit for L3200?

[s219]

I am thinking about a top n tilt kit for my L3200. It has the FEL but no rear remotes. Are there part numbers for for the rear remote options and the top n tilt kits from Kubota? I want to check prices with a couple online parts dealers.

Anybody that has installed the rear remotes and top n tilt kit able to comment on difficulty?

Another option is to get the Kubota rear remotes and then go with a third party top n tilt kit.

Appreciate any help/guidance!

thanks,
219

 

[Baby Grand]

Either you can select the valves and other connecting hardware from the Kubota whole goods catalog.
Or put together your own hardware from a third party. I went with the Kubota whole goods hardware - it was very expensive, but I got a complete, clean install in a very cramped area. Third party sourcing would have involved a lot of trial and error and putting the valves and controls on top of the fender or some other exposed location, which I wanted to avoid.
Talk to Brian (MtnViewRanch), as he's probably done a few builds on L3200s already.
I got my T-N-T kit from Brian and wish I had done it years ago.
Here's my build thread:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/277057-rear-remotes.html?highlight=remotes

-Jim

 

[s219]

Awesome Jim, thanks for the link -- that covers everything I need to know. Looks like a real knuckle-busting install, the kind that really brings out my full vocabulary....

 

[Baby Grand]

Azbinder, in that thread, suggested removing the right rear tire and fender to get more access, but I said to myself "Oh, I don't have time for all that silly nonsense, I'll just do it orthoscopically". I shoulda listened.

 

[s219]

So I mainly want to run a hydraulic top link. I see the parts for the Kubota rear remotes are somewhat modular, in that you have to start with their single valve kit and hose kit no matter what, and then add on 2nd and 3rd valves as desired. I wonder if I should do the single valve only, or spring for a second valve for future use (maybe tilt, though I don't really need it now). Looks like the first valve kit does not include float/detent, so that might be a reason to add the second valve right away. But at the moment I don't see a need for float either.

It might come down to how much trouble it is to install the rear remotes, and whether it makes sense to install one or two valves from a difficulty/labor standpoint. If adding a second valve later on wouldn't be a lot of extra work, I can defer it. But if it really should be done all at once, when the system is first installed, I would do it up front.

My main goal is to get quick adjustment of the top link from the seat when grading with my box blade. On my old B2920, I could simply reach around the seat and crank the turnbuckle. It's not real easy to do on my L3200, and I usually end up wrenching my back or neck, or hopping off and doing it from the ground.

 

[Baby Grand]

If you're using a box blade, then I highly recommend getting at least a second remote so you can tilt the blade from the seat. This makes any grading job go much, much faster and allows you to tailor the contours and save yourself lots of manual (rake & shovel) blending.

 

[TripleR]

I have three on mine and love it, I have a box scraper similar to this: Kubota Top-n-Tilt Kit with Land Pride HR2572 Box Scraper - YouTube

 

[Al 2]

I have a Kubota L4150 with no remotes and was also thinking of adding a top link using a manual 6 way diverter valve from Princess Auto (Canada). The valve is about $100. Just tap into the front bucket curl lines. As others have mentioned, it would also be nice to tip the blade with a side cylinder so this could get more involved. I really don't know much about hydraulics or the system on my tractor so if any has any suggestions about this idea I would be glad to hear them.
Thanks
Al

 

[Al 2]

I forgot to say in the above post that you don't need another valve if you just install one cylinder. You use the valve for your bucket curl.
Al

 

[Gordon Gould]

I went with the Kabota Remotes and the third party TnT kit on my L3010 which must be very similar to your L3200. The TnT kit was from Brian and went in with no problems. This is what he shipped



This is the installed kit which I am very happy with and in hind sight wish I got it sooner



gg

 

[Fallon]

I got the parts for my build from Brian. You can see my story for my L3200 hydraulic learning experience & build at http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/hydraulics/295816-kubota-l3200-tnt-3rd-function.html

I'm happy with everything but the hoses from the QDs to the TnT cylinders. I should have gotten 45 degree fittings on the QD ends.

One of the top hoses actually caught the top bracket on my quick hitch the other day. Held the 500lbs box blade. QD bracket bent a bit & the hose is a bit beat up now, but still working fine. Not unexpected, as I realized I needed 45 degree ends on the hose a while ago. Just decided to wait until I broke something to replace the hoses.

I definitely recommend Brian @ Fit Rite.

 

[ovrszd]

I'm not positive in regards to the L3200,,, but with most other models, if you buy the Kubota kits the first remote will be SCV (Self Cancelling Valve) and the 2nd and 3rd will be your choice of simple up/down valves or float valves.

You will not like an SCV valve to run a top link. An SCV is designed to detent when extending or retracting until the cylinder reaches max throw based on being totally extended or retracted until it hits a stop or is fully retracted. It will not work as smoothly for miniscule adjustments.

I can't imagine adding the 1st rear remote and not adding the 2nd. Unless money is the stopper, then I fully understand. If money is not the stopper, go for the 3rd as well because you will need it.

I always am using 2 and often use 3, never just use 1.

As most others have said, if going aftermarket, go with Brian at Fit Rite. If a factory look and design most is important to you, go Kubota. I use the snot outta mine. It was imperative that I have a streamlined installation and ergonomically located levers.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I believe that there is no self canceling OEM valve available for the L3200. You get a std 3 position spring return to center 1st valve and then you have a choice of float or detent valves for the 2nd and 3rd valves. The Kubota OEM valves for these tractors are mounted up high (clamped to the ROPS) and are not integrated into the body as the Grand L and M model tractors are. While it is nice to purchase a kit that just bolts on, that bolt on kit is about double the cost (actually more at $2343 for 3 sets) of after market stuff.

 

[ovrszd]

Good info Brian!!

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Good info Brian!!

I wish that I could get my hands on an L2800-L3800 for 1-2 weeks. I could come up with a 100% complete rear remote kit for them. Rental yard wants waaaaaaaaaay to much money for a weeks rental, so I'm sort of stuck for now with what I can offer for them. (partial kits only, no valve mount)

 

[Fallon]

Personally I'm really happy with the front half of my L3200 hydraulic project. I think it looks as good if not better than some of the OEM kits I've seen. A bit more work, but pretty minimal fabrication work & it could be replicated with no welding with a minor change or 2. No leakdown issues (it takes a few days to a week at least) on my TnT kit with the Bucher valve.

Some day I will get around to tidying up the hoses in back. I'm thinking 45s will get things clear of my quick hitch. The QH makes the hose routing a bit of a pain, but it's so nice to be able to hitch up any implement without getting off the tractor no matter how crooked it got set down.