I would try the idle adjustment on the carburetor. Tweek it until it idles at a speed you are happy with.
Farmall M
- Thread starter Birchhatchery
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I would try the idle adjustment on the carburetor. Tweek it until it idles at a speed you are happy with.
OP
Birchhatchery
Silver Member
which screw is it?
Soundguy
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just follow the linkage and make the adjustments. it's all manual linkage...
OP
Birchhatchery
Silver Member
got the radiator in no leaks I am just having a leak in the front of the water pump all the way in the front of the fan its leaking the that big brass bolt in the front is it possible that came loos or what is leaking? or what do I need to do
Gary Farmall
Member
Farmall M's are Notorious for leaking at the water pump, put about 3 or 4 squirts of grease from grease gun in each of the two grease zerks in the water pump and this should solve your problem, anyhow it solved mine. Gary
OP
Birchhatchery
Silver Member
I greesed it and ran it to operating tempratur its still leaking don't no what to do? also my other question it is leaking gear oil out of the front of the axel its leaking out of this round peaice that constantly turns while the tractor is running. its up were can get to the clutch and fly wheel its on the axel side and its also leaking out of were the clutch comes out of the axel were and what gaskets do I need for these thanks
DJ54
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Click on the link, and it will show an exploded view of your water pump. Official Case IH Online Parts Store and Case IH Catalog for Parts Search and Parts Look Up. Case IH Parts for Case IH Tractors, Case IH Combines, Case IH Tractors, Case IH Manuals, Case IH Parts
Sounds like the packing is leaking. It is behind, what you describe as the big brass bolt. That is the packing gland nut. You might try snugging it a bit if there are some threads showing. If that doesn't do the trick, a new packing is about 12 bucks. Manual says it's best to remove the pump to replace the packing. Pump mounting gasket is under 8 bucks, unless you can tap out a new one out of gasket material.
I'm still thinking you way overfilled the transmission. There is a check plug on the left side, in the area of the clutch pedal. Should be just below the level of the PTO shaft. Back up to post #39, and you will see where I posted a lube chart for the M. Click on it, and it will enlarge. Save it to a file, then you can print it off, maybe a couple of them, and put with your manual for quick reference when changing fluids.
I'm a little confused about the oil leaking out the front of the axle, and possibly getting on the clutch. I'm thinking you mean out the front of the transmission. That would require a seal that goes behind the clutch shaft coupler. It's been a while since I've had my M, and never had to replace that seal, os not sure if you can get the coupler out, without dropping the hyd. pump, which is a job in itself...
Most definitely check the oil level in the transmission, before doing all of that work. I think it may solve a lot of your problems...
Sounds like the packing is leaking. It is behind, what you describe as the big brass bolt. That is the packing gland nut. You might try snugging it a bit if there are some threads showing. If that doesn't do the trick, a new packing is about 12 bucks. Manual says it's best to remove the pump to replace the packing. Pump mounting gasket is under 8 bucks, unless you can tap out a new one out of gasket material.
I'm still thinking you way overfilled the transmission. There is a check plug on the left side, in the area of the clutch pedal. Should be just below the level of the PTO shaft. Back up to post #39, and you will see where I posted a lube chart for the M. Click on it, and it will enlarge. Save it to a file, then you can print it off, maybe a couple of them, and put with your manual for quick reference when changing fluids.
I'm a little confused about the oil leaking out the front of the axle, and possibly getting on the clutch. I'm thinking you mean out the front of the transmission. That would require a seal that goes behind the clutch shaft coupler. It's been a while since I've had my M, and never had to replace that seal, os not sure if you can get the coupler out, without dropping the hyd. pump, which is a job in itself...
Most definitely check the oil level in the transmission, before doing all of that work. I think it may solve a lot of your problems...
OP
Birchhatchery
Silver Member
it is leaking off the brass bolt in front of the pump and if the transmission is suppose to be below the the pipe plug on the left side of the axel then no wonder its leaking out of the front of the transmission as all that stuff is higher then the plug!
FH50
New member
To answer your original question, the oil you should use is nothing less than 80w-90 I use 85w-140 which is thicker. When you drain any old oil from the rear end, you will usually have a thicker oil than what you put in. 85w-140 is the closest I have found. The capacity of the transmission oil is either 11 or 13 gallons. The older manuals say 11 gallons, and the newer manuals say 13 gallons.
OP
Birchhatchery
Silver Member
its already full maybe from the sound of it OVER filled I never drained the old out I just refilled because it was leaking when I got it so I just let it leak out the old/new stuff on its own until I find the seals for it. my other questing from yall with farmalls as some have said they have problems with the dripping in front of the water pump is this just nature of the beast? and how does one tell if the water pump itself is going out were does it drip from on these?
OP
Birchhatchery
Silver Member
also I did not notice then I drove it before I bought but now I do I drove it last night it makes a clicking or ticking noise when I drive it in 1,2,3,4 but not in 5th anyone no what could be it sounds like its coming from inside the transmission its just tick tick tick tick tick now it only does this in gear while its moving it does not do it sitting idle only while tractor moving in gear 1-4. I figured they just do this or probly my luck I have a rear end going out. can over filling with fluid cause this?
PoorPlowboy
Platinum Member
Did you ever pull the level check plug and let all of the excess run out?
OP
Birchhatchery
Silver Member
no I never have I was going to let it leak out naturally but if it is the cause of the ticking I will do it?
OP
Birchhatchery
Silver Member
i lowerd the oil level to the correct height. if it is missing teeth then why does it do it in all gears except 5th? other then the ticking it has no problems I turned the pto on it doesn't make any more or any less sound. if I get of the tractor and stick my head up to the clutch were it running it almost duplicates the sound that it makes when its running I don't no if that would make the sound or not. I can also push the tractor in nuteral and it will not make the sound either. ive herd from others that farmalls make noise and ive herd others say that it means a bearing or gear is going out any ideas?
DJ54
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Check all of the wheel, and wheel weight bolts, and make sure they are good and tight. If it does it like 2 times per revolution of the rear wheels, that could be the problem. In the first 4 gears, it may be turning slow enough to let it slop some. 5th, maybe the torque on the bolts being in that high gear don't give it time to slop around... Does it do it in reverse..??
If it does it more rapidly than that, you'll just have to isolate the area the sound is coming from, and dig in...
If it does it more rapidly than that, you'll just have to isolate the area the sound is coming from, and dig in...
OP
Birchhatchery
Silver Member
yea it seems to do it in reverse also. but if its coming from the tires spinning then why when I driving in 4th gear and push the clutch down the noise automatically stops and the tractors tires are still rolling to a stop. its Purdy fast click and when I idle the tractor higher the sound picks up speed until the tractors idleing so high that I cant hear it so I don't no what happens then
DJ54
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How much free travel do you have in your clutch pedal..?? It should be 1-1/8" free travel from fully released, until you feel it make contact. Have you tried pushing down on the clutch pedal, just as you start to feel pressure, when starting to release the clutch, and does the ticking stop then? Could be the release bearing chattering on the fingers of the pressure plate. Or, could be the release bearing itself. If memory serves me right, there is a grease zerk to lube the throw out bearing. Can't remember if you have to remove the bottom inspection cover to get to it or not. If it's never been greased, that may be the culprit. But if it were real bad, I'm thinking it would have a squal to it, if it were completely dry.
DJ54
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Went to Case/IH and found the page of the clutch connections in an exploded view. Click on the link to see it. #27 is the grease tube that has a zerk on the end. #31 is the little swivel grease hole cover you swing out of the way to lube it. Maybe a couple pumps of the grease gun lever, and see if it makes a difference. Too much, and you'll have grease slinging all over the clutch. You could give it a bit more, but you'll have to go easy, and feel for some resistance on the grease gun handle. Know when, to say when...
Official Case IH Online Parts Store and Case IH Catalog for Parts Search and Parts Look Up. Case IH Parts for Case IH Tractors, Case IH Combines, Case IH Tractors, Case IH Manuals, Case IH Parts
Official Case IH Online Parts Store and Case IH Catalog for Parts Search and Parts Look Up. Case IH Parts for Case IH Tractors, Case IH Combines, Case IH Tractors, Case IH Manuals, Case IH Parts
