FEL and 4WD - How necessary?

   / FEL and 4WD - How necessary? #41  
It sounds as if most of the responses here advocate using the 4WD in unison with the FEL for digging, hauling loaded buckets, pushing and making sharp turns.
Is there any caution advised for doing damage to the 4 WD system, used in this manner?

I can only speak for myself - but usually use 4x4 only when it is needed.

Once the snow hits I will run in 4x and I would not put it in four wheel drive on dry pavement ESPECIALLY when turning sharply.
Now pulling in a straight line- after spinning in 2 wheel drive sure put it in 4x4 my:2cents:
 
   / FEL and 4WD - How necessary? #42  
I used my Kubota B2320 for a month or more before I paid a cent on it. $0 down, 0% for 60 months.

?..and while I know that your cash limit was $10K, my B2320 was just about $15K with 60 months at. 0.0% and a 60-month accidental damage protection plan, so if I slide it into the pond, drop a log on the hood, or any other 3-Stooges maneuver, it will be fixed for a nominal deductible.
 
   / FEL and 4WD - How necessary? #43  
Didn't see it mentioned -but if you heat with firewood, the advantages offered by a loader equipped 4x4 tractor are numerous... especially if you add a grapple

just more reasons to get both tractor options

Good Luck in your search

Or log tongs from Bailey's or Northern Tool from either the 3-point hitch or FEL?
 
   / FEL and 4WD - How necessary? #44  
I can only speak for myself - but usually use 4x4 only when it is needed.

Once the snow hits I will run in 4x and I would not put it in four wheel drive on dry pavement ESPECIALLY when turning sharply.
Now pulling in a straight line- after spinning in 2 wheel drive sure put it in 4x4 my:2cents:

As somene else said previously, esecially when loaded on the front or back, we use 4WD unless we are on a dry flat paved road. In my Kubota's well thumbed through owner's manual, it says to use the 4WD (and the differential lock, when needed) BEFORE you lose traction.
 
   / FEL and 4WD - How necessary? #45  
It sounds as if most of the responses here advocate using the 4WD in unison with the FEL for digging, hauling loaded buckets, pushing and making sharp turns.
Is there any caution advised for doing damage to the 4 WD system, used in this manner?

I don't know about damaging the 4WD system but I can say from experience that bulldozing in 4WD with the FEL can put tremendous pressure on the hydraulic lines and they can fail. The bypass activates only when the bucket is moving in my Kubota, since I have learned this I have not ruptured another metal hydraulic line.

Here is the thread about the rupture I posted a few years back.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/53180-hydraulic-rupture-2-a.html
 
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   / FEL and 4WD - How necessary? #46  
Hey guys, still on the search for my first tractor and have a question. How important are the FEL and 4x4 on a tractor? I will be using the tractor for bushhogging and maintaining small roads on 40 acres of hunting property and for some landscaping type work around the house(~1 1/4 acres). I would also like to expand the road system on the hunting property(ie. make new roads through timber). Can most of this work be done without a FEL? I would prefer to have the FEL, but I am buying used and haven't had much luck finding a tractor with 4wd and FEL that fits my budget(<$10,000). I have however found some nice tractors, often with attachments that are well within the budget. Are there implement for the TPH that can be used for clearing roads, moving downed timber, etc.
Remember, I am a newbie at the whole tractor thing. Thanks for your help.
Mark

Hello Mark...and welcome. How necessary is 4wd and a loader? Well, it depends on the land. Sounds to me like you could use a couple of tractors! I've had about a dozen tractors over the years ranging from 16 to 60 hp. It's been a hobby since the 1970s.

The short answer is yes. Get 4wd and a loader if you can. When you say moving timber and clearing roads you have also upped the size requirement. I'd say to go 25/30 hp or above. BTW, if you are going to do any real work with the load that a 25 hp tractor can handle then you will also want power steering. You can find all this for under 10K if you look hard and are not in a hurry. I did so just last year. BUT! To buy wisely you will absolutely need to be comfortable evaluating used mechanical equipment like tractors. A background in general mechanics helps there too. As for trusting the seller, all the old adages about horse-trading absolutely apply to buying a tractor. Tractor buying and selling is absolutely "buyer beware". It doesn't mean it isn't the right thing to do; for some it's a fun hobby all by itself. But please by very cautious.

First some history. Farmers originated tractors, and they started with the old heavy farm tractors that mostly pulled an implement in poor traction in a flat field. At that time suburban homeowners - small landowners - with a few acres were a rarity, and those few folks didn't have many options other than to try to adapt the smaller farm tractors. If you have 10 to 40 acres and tend more towards trees, streams, rocks, and dirt driveways than towards lawns and landscaping then that's still a possible way to go.

For a farmer's use, the tractor had certain needs. They didn't need much in the way of power steering because the emphasis was on keeping to a straight line. For a loader you want power steering. For traction, a farm tractor was mechanically simpler (cheaper) to design if the concern was simply to optimize the traction of the rear wheels. A high weight to horsepower ratio, huge wheels, massive weight right over those wheels, and aggressive lugged tires all contribute. Add a locking differential and you have all the traction needed. Plus, when a tractors has that much traction through only two wheels then adding a useful form of steering assist via single wheel braking is easy.

Now for the compact tractor... They have a different purpose from a field tractor. They lift and carry more than they pull things. The tractor itself is surprisingly lightweight and leaves less of a footprint. THe smaller footprint is major. A farm tractor can leave a rut. In a compact, a diesel engine is more of a selling point than an economical necessity. Some very good farm tractors were gas engines. Since the compact tractor is light, it needs 4wd. And you do need a loader because that's basically about 90% of what a compact tractor does. And it does it well. And because a higher proportion of the total weight will be in the loader, bucket, and load ....and therefore concentrated over the front wheels....then you will find power steering a huge advantage.

As you've probably noticed, you can buy an awful lot of farm tractor for the price of a compact. Used farm tractors get older, but rarely wear out or need expensive repairs. Trying before buying is considered to be common in tractor sales. Sort of an extended test drive where you pay the delivery costs. That's because however it works for the first week will probably be exactly how it will work for the next couple of decades.

If you have enough land to use a medium or small farm tractor from post-1960 (roughly when the 3 pt hitch was standardized) then you should try one out for the hunting property. Your dollar buys more that way and it will do the work. About half the cost will be the loader. You must get a loader regardless. 2wd is OK in a farm tractor.


For the house and 1.25 acres a compact is the answer.
Sounds to me like you need two tractors!
Lucky guy!
rScotty
 
   / FEL and 4WD - How necessary? #47  
It sounds as if most of the responses here advocate using the 4WD in unison with the FEL for digging, hauling loaded buckets, pushing and making sharp turns.
Is there any caution advised for doing damage to the 4 WD system, used in this manner?
I am on dirt/loose ground 99% of the time doing just that and leave it in 4WD 100% of the time. The only time I feel any drive strain is on pavement.
 
   / FEL and 4WD - How necessary? #48  
As somene else said previously, esecially when loaded on the front or back, we use 4WD unless we are on a dry flat paved road. In my Kubota's well thumbed through owner's manual, it says to use the 4WD (and the differential lock, when needed) BEFORE you lose traction.

I think I use it less than some, because I had my 2 wheel drive Ford 3000 for years before owning a 4x4 tractor- and made it work for every use .

The other reason 2 wheel drive is enough most of the time is both tractors are at least 7000 lbs. at all times- fairly large rear tires (14.9 x28s and weights or calcium) and at least 700lbs. on the 3pt.- that helps with traction.

For me this is another reason to be careful when using differential lock with a lot of weight on the tires.

My 4x4 tractor manual says to use diff lock AFTER loosing traction and NEVER while making a turn- that is a very good way to bind up a drive train and if traction is sufficient- something will have to give, usually a spider gear or axle shaft.
The rated tractive pulling power force of the 554 is over 13000lbs which points at the amount of traction and drivetrain forces that can be generated.

It is probably fine to use 4x4 and diff lock on small light FEL tractors that weigh much less than these do.

The tires will just slip, not always the case with a lot more weight.

Every owner has the choice to use their tractor as they wish- it is the American way:)

Which brings up another thing the OP might find useful, as rscotty pointed out that a farm tractor might also work for many of the uses stated.

If one is found during the search give it a good look. It will have more power and weight - while possibly costing the same or less than a CUT- and if the OP ends up with a CUT that 's great to.
 
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   / FEL and 4WD - How necessary? #49  
I don't know about damaging the 4WD system but I can say from experience that bulldozing in 4WD with the FEL can put tremendous pressure on the hydraulic lines and they can fail. The bypass activates only when the bucket is moving in my Kubota, since I have learned this I have not ruptured another metal hydraulic line.

Here is the thread about the rupture I posted a few years back.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/53180-hydraulic-rupture-2-a.html

Very good point. Stress on the "metal" of the FEL is one thing, stress on the FEL hydraulics due to compression factors is quite another.
 
   / FEL and 4WD - How necessary? #50  
I think i use it less than some is because I had my 2 wheel drive Ford 3000 for years before owning a 4x4 tractor.

And made it work for every use . the other reason 2 wheel drive is enough most of the time is both tractors are at least 7000 lbs. at all times and that helps with traction.

That is another reason to be careful when using differential lock with a lot of weight on the tires.

My 4x4 tractor manual says to use diff lock AFTER loosing traction and NEVER while making a turn- that is a very good way to bind up a drive train and if traction is sufficient something will have to give usually a spider gear or axle shaft.

Plus when you lock the diff you can only go straight.:laughing:
The reason I brought up the 4 WD issue is that this is going to be the OP's first tractor. Just saying 4WD is pretty generic as a lot of changes have been made over the years and a tractor 4WD is not like an automobile 4WD. There is also the issue of all manual gearing and shifting versus the hydrostatic type.
I, like you got along well for 20 years with a Ford 3910 2WD doing all the things one shouldn't with it, on hilly ground and woods.
The last tractor I got is 4WD
and I appreciate the 4WD on some steep fields and other places where I used to have to use the FEL on the Ford to back myself out.
The 4020 has a manual transmission and a manual engagement handle for the 4WD. Since it is geared it is meant to be engaged when the tractor is moving slightly. The steering is hydrostatic and the front wheels lay over in a sharp turn ( similar to a road grader) so there is really no difference in feel with the 4WD engaged or disengaged except when there is wheel slip.

With the new tractor tires 3/4 full of washer fluid I actually feel more "pucker" on some side hills than I do with the old tractor 1/2 full of salt water. It may be also that the new tractor is higher off the ground and I have only used it 1,000 hours versus 4,000 on the old Ford. I leave the backhoe and FEL on the Ford now and with all that weight can go about anywhere.
I know that the new one with 4 cyclinders and in 4WD uses almost twice as much fuel with the same implements as the old 2 WD tractor which is 3 cyclinders.
So I would advise the OP, when buying a used tractor, to make sure everything works properly and perhaps take someone that is experienced in tractor operation along to test drive it before making a deal.
 

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