FEL Build Questions.

[texasranger556]

That may work if you have clearance.

The new valve should have 3 ports. Pump, tank, and power beyond. Tank would be a third line that returns the low pressure oil to tank/reservoir. The tank port is typically only rated for a few hundred PSI, so if you try to feed another downstream valve (like your 3 point) from the tank port, you can damage the valve.

 

[jaxs]

View attachment 604643

This is the design I'm basing it on.

Yikes! That's an ambitious goal. I figured you were talking about a trip bucket.

 

[Mowens]

That may work if you have clearance.

The new valve should have 3 ports. Pump, tank, and power beyond. Tank would be a third line that returns the low pressure oil to tank/reservoir. The tank port is typically only rated for a few hundred PSI, so if you try to feed another downstream valve (like your 3 point) from the tank port, you can damage the valve.

So this is what I found.

But your saying use the PB port and then have a return, got it. :thumbsup:

And the adapter just keeps me from cutting the steel line which I like.

You guys are all a wealth of information I really appreciate it.

___

Jaxs - Yea I need a full loader to dump into truck bed do some dirt digging etc. I know my tractor is small but she be mighty :laughing:
While ambitious yes, aside from the Hydraulics I don't think it is beyond my capabilities. The tractor was designed with a FEL optional from factory so it wont be beyond its capabilities as well. I have already built several implements and parts for it that get hard use so this is the next eventual step.

 

[PILOON]

There exists an adapter for aux hydraulic circuit that is factory made.
A member "Bill" has duplicated them and he is usually on this site.

Pricy per say but not really out of line considering.
It mounts left rear in the 3 point area.
(have the OEM on my CUT) and use it for my log splitter.
The other option is another hydraulic pump driven off of the crankshaft pulley (as I have done). Again there was a factory adapter to do this.
Advantage is that the factory pump is somewhat slow for FEL usage and I used a larger volume pump making my FEL a pleasure to use.

 

[Mowens]

There exists an adapter for aux hydraulic circuit that is factory made.
A member "Bill" has duplicated them and he is usually on this site.

Pricy per say but not really out of line considering.
It mounts left rear in the 3 point area.
(have the OEM on my CUT) and use it for my log splitter.
The other option is another hydraulic pump driven off of the crankshaft pulley (as I have done). Again there was a factory adapter to do this.
Advantage is that the factory pump is somewhat slow for FEL usage and I used a larger volume pump making my FEL a pleasure to use.

I love the idea of using a separate pump and hydraulic system for the loader then I don't have to worry about cutting into my current system and damaging my three-point or starving the transmission or anything. I saw a bit about a front PTO in the manual I didn't delve into it very much. Can you provide some more information Insight on that please?

 

[Mowens]

So a few minutes with the calipers and my brother is going to make me the adapters that mount at the pump.

Started mock up got the cross bar put together.

Tomorrow I hope to finish the subframe.

 

[ptsg]

A few years ago, I built a loader for a Kubota B7000 I had at the time.

I also went with the separate pump/reservoir solution. It allowed me to use a slightly bigger pump to make things go faster, while also not messing with the tractor's hydraulics as they're not designed to handle a loader.

I machined a pulley that would fit right after the main crank pulley, then just mounted the pump on the side of the engine and run a belt to it.

 

[Mowens]

Well works sucked so slow progress. Here is in progress and completed subframe.



And my brother got the adapter done.

 

[PILOON]

There exists an adapter for aux hydraulic circuit that is factory made.
A member "Bill" has duplicated them and he is usually on this site.

Pricy per say but not really out of line considering.
It mounts left rear in the 3 point area.
(have the OEM on my CUT) and use it for my log splitter.
The other option is another hydraulic pump driven off of the crankshaft pulley (as I have done). Again there was a factory adapter to do this.
Advantage is that the factory pump is somewhat slow for FEL usage and I used a larger volume pump making my FEL a pleasure to use.

I drove my pump off of the crankshaft using the factory attachement.(they designed it to run blowers etc so the crank can take it)
Problem will be that the crank bolt pattern is a 3 bolt affair and to make it well centered will be the challenge.
In my case (10 yrs back) I was able to purchase the part so that was easy.
I also used an universal joint to couple the pump to the crankshaft output thus eliminating critical alignment issues.
I simply fabricated a 'spreader' across the FEL sub frame to mount my aux pump.
My FEL reacts like a spirited colt vs the slow factory device and low factory pump CFM's.
Hey, over 10 years and absolutely no issues.
I am aware of many other tractor brands that use the front aux pumps for secondary hydraulics.

Just be sure to use a U joint so as not to harm the crankshaft front seal.

 

[Mowens]

I considered going that route with a front pump off the crank. The pump cost was close to 200 plus extras. I decided getting him to machine the adapters for nothing was worth trying. And while it isn't the oem device it functions the same. If it's not quick enough I'll definitely get the pump.

 

[Mowens]

So I got the front bumper and supports made.

The questions I am pondering is should I close the ends on these things? The bottom main beam and uprights? I was planning not to simply so they couldn't hold water.

The other question was bushings. I see some each way is there a need for them really?

 

[texasranger556]

I would box them to keep rodents and insects out.

For pivot joints most small machines have a pin inside a tube with a grease fitting, no removable bushings.

 

[jaxs]

I would box them to keep rodents and insects out.

For pivot joints most small machines have a pin inside a tube with a grease fitting, no removable bushings.

^^^ +1 on both of what ^he said.
If you have trouble finding suitable tubes and pins,check with a bearing supply house. They carry bushing stock and pin stock by the foot so you cut to length. You want steel bushing stock so it can be welded into arms.

 

[Mowens]

Thanks I will make it happen.



The test fitting the arm seems to be moving fine straight up, down a good bit. My question is does the angle in the arm going down towards the ground seem reasonable it puts the bucket about two foot in front of the tractor. I know I can shorten the arms a couple inches in order to buy a greater angle but then I run the risk of not being able to open the hood.

 

[Mowens]

Lower portion of arm on.

So here's the question of the day. If I'm going to use a piece of Steel through the arm portion to act as a bushing, do I need to use anything on the uprights where the pin goes through or should I just not drill them to a larger size leave them tight to the pin diameter?

 

[jaxs]

My wag is if each wall is 1/2" or more,bushings wouldn't be necessary but will extend life of components. ,I would drill holes slip fit to pin and weld short (1/2"to 3/4" long bushings on outside of upright walls. That provide's added bearing/support surface on longer pins. I must tell you I feel like a Boy Scout explaining survival tatics to a Navy Seal. I am totally awed by you and your brother's skill on this project.

 

[texasranger556]

Welding tubing to spread the load will keep the pin holes round longer. You will also want to keep the pin from rotating against the non-greased part of the joint, either welding a tab to the pin for a bolt or drilling for a cross pin.

From a quick Google here is an example from a BX:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/w2ZGEnfZGXs/maxresdefault.jpg

 

[Mowens]

Thanks for the advice guys.

Jaxs really appreciate the compliment on the project. You all have been amazing with the advice and commentary.

My brother is a machinist and I do a lot of fabrication of my own. The hydraulics and FEL are well beyond my normal projects.

 

[Mowens]

Got the bucket fabbed up. Hydraulics almost knocked out. This beast almost done.

 

[Mowens]

Some updated pictures. Learned a lot as this went along.
Pardon the supports trying to keep it square as I add the cross support.

Is it better to mount the hydraulic from the front of that or the bottom?