Loader FEL capacity with a boom

   / FEL capacity with a boom
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#41  
Continued
 

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   / FEL capacity with a boom
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#42  
cont 2
 

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   / FEL capacity with a boom #43  
I have made a few boom poles, can't seem to understand how you guys are lifting as much weight as you say. I tell you at 7 or 8 ft out it hasn't been a lot. I have never got near as much as some of you are saying.
Loading some pictures of my boom and what I did today with it. I do this 3 or 4 times a year just because I don't have a overhead anymore, and it can't be done with a cheerpicker. And I can tell you a big block is all you want with the ex manafolds on it with a 40 hp tractor and you had better not turn until the engine is down. The engine today is a 350 block, but keep in mind the manifolds weigh close to what the engine does.
I do this by myself and alot of up and down from the tractor. As you see my boom goes in and out. I keep it in when I'm R & R a engine because I want all the control I can get. Slow and easy!!!!

Must have been a heavy load leejohn, your last pic shows a split tractor!
 
   / FEL capacity with a boom #44  
W.wiz, looks good, if you can get a couple of chain links, weld them to each side of boom so you can run a couple of ratchet straps from there back to bucket hooks.

It looks like you cut some of the boom off from the first pics, or it could be the angle of photo.

What I did with mine is weld a 2" x 18" receiver hitch and have a slide in hook and if setting post for barn and trusses which are faily light, I add additional length of 2x2xシ tube into receiver and go from there.

Here's a link to HF where I purchased from.Search results for: 'receiver'
3 point hitch :thumbsup:
 

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   / FEL capacity with a boom
  • Thread Starter
#45  
get a couple of chain links, weld them to each side of boom so you can run a couple of ratchet straps from there back to bucket hooks.
Good idea, to stabilize the system. And nice and light. I'll do that.

It looks like you cut some of the boom off from the first pics, or it could be the angle of photo.
Yes - now just over 4'. I think I measured 57" from the pins. Comments here, and my calculations, suggested this would be close to the FEL's limit.

What I did with mine is weld a 2" x 18" receiver hitch and have a slide in hook and if setting post for barn and trusses which are faily light, I add additional length of 2x2xシ tube into receiver and go from there.
Good idea. I can retrofit an external slide after the fact, if I cut back the rebar tension strap. One of the steel suppliers near me carries the seamless square tube used for receivers.
 
   / FEL capacity with a boom #46  
whiskywizard,
Nice boom and hitch!!!!!

Highbeam,
Yes it's my B7800 getting a clutch bearing. Here the link if your interested in some more pictures. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/220094-poor-b7800-broke-half.html


LD1,
I'll try and load the attachment of where I got the spec. There must be a misprint.
Would this hold ture? Say at the pin it's 2500lbs and 20" from pins it's 1100lbs and the weight has dropped 400lbs. Now if I go out another 20" do I drop another 400lbs? So at 40" out I'm down to 700lbs and another 20" it would be down to 300lbs. is that the way it works?

LD1 it would not load it's a nt.mht file.
 
   / FEL capacity with a boom #47  
whiskywizard,
Nice boom and hitch!!!!!

Highbeam,
Yes it's my B7800 getting a clutch bearing. Here the link if your interested in some more pictures. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/220094-poor-b7800-broke-half.html


LD1,
I'll try and load the attachment of where I got the spec. There must be a misprint.
Would this hold ture? Say at the pin it's 2500lbs and 20" from pins it's 1100lbs and the weight has dropped 400lbs. Now if I go out another 20" do I drop another 400lbs? So at 40" out I'm down to 700lbs and another 20" it would be down to 300lbs. is that the way it works?

LD1 it would not load it's a nt.mht file.

No.

Everything is based on where the lift cylinder applies the force to the loader arm.

Lets say the "pins" are 30" forward fo that and give you a lift cap. of 2500lbs

20" forward of that is now 50" forward of where the lift is applied. So the lift force there would be 3/5ths of the lift (30/50) at the pins. or 1500. So you would have lost 1000lbs. Another 20" out and now you are @ 70". Your lift would now be 3/7ths of the 2500, or 1071lbs.

Its simple levers and I have no idea what your actual measurments are, but this should give you the idea. And this isnt the exact way to figure it either, but it is real close.

The loader is a complex lever that is not straight, and travels in an arc. So there is a TON of figures and meansurments to take if you want exact. But again, the way I mentinoed will get you real close, assuming the MFG spec is correct.
 
   / FEL capacity with a boom #48  
close enough!! I got it now. Thanks
 
   / FEL capacity with a boom #49  
I use just about the same geometry to lift up my windmill heads (motor, fan and tail) onto a test stand. There is one difference: I undersling the backbone (runs underneath) made from flat steel and have several hols drilled along its length it allowing me to attach a chain hook at 4 stations.

The capacity guess of 500 lbs is most likely the top end capacity, but this depends on the curl angle. If the gin pole is straight up, you'll have higher lift capacity but a shorter reach (and need a longer chain). Curling will produce the most lifting speed, when the pole is horizontal, too. That can cause problems when maneuvering the item you are lifting.

I don't recommend welding a hook on the tip because the angle of the dangle might let the chain slip or bind, depending on the bucket angle. Put a ring on it so the chain floats to the most effective and safe connection position.
 
   / FEL capacity with a boom #50  
I don't recommend welding a hook on the tip because the angle of the dangle might let the chain slip or bind, depending on the bucket angle. Put a ring on it so the chain floats to the most effective and safe connection position.

Excellent point and I agree 100%. DONT make the hook ridgid. Allow the connectionto float and swivel. Either by a ring, or a swivel hook/eye, etc.
 
 
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