Loader FEL capacity with a boom

[whiskywizard]

Continued

 

[whiskywizard]

cont 2

 

[Highbeam]

I have made a few boom poles, can't seem to understand how you guys are lifting as much weight as you say. I tell you at 7 or 8 ft out it hasn't been a lot. I have never got near as much as some of you are saying.
Loading some pictures of my boom and what I did today with it. I do this 3 or 4 times a year just because I don't have a overhead anymore, and it can't be done with a cheerpicker. And I can tell you a big block is all you want with the ex manafolds on it with a 40 hp tractor and you had better not turn until the engine is down. The engine today is a 350 block, but keep in mind the manifolds weigh close to what the engine does.
I do this by myself and alot of up and down from the tractor. As you see my boom goes in and out. I keep it in when I'm R & R a engine because I want all the control I can get. Slow and easy!!!!

Must have been a heavy load leejohn, your last pic shows a split tractor!

 

[Damifino]

W.wiz, looks good, if you can get a couple of chain links, weld them to each side of boom so you can run a couple of ratchet straps from there back to bucket hooks.

It looks like you cut some of the boom off from the first pics, or it could be the angle of photo.

What I did with mine is weld a 2" x 18" receiver hitch and have a slide in hook and if setting post for barn and trusses which are faily light, I add additional length of 2x2xｼ tube into receiver and go from there.

Here's a link to HF where I purchased from.Search results for: 'receiver'
3 point hitch :thumbsup:

 

[whiskywizard]

get a couple of chain links, weld them to each side of boom so you can run a couple of ratchet straps from there back to bucket hooks.

Good idea, to stabilize the system. And nice and light. I'll do that.

It looks like you cut some of the boom off from the first pics, or it could be the angle of photo.

Yes - now just over 4'. I think I measured 57" from the pins. Comments here, and my calculations, suggested this would be close to the FEL's limit.

What I did with mine is weld a 2" x 18" receiver hitch and have a slide in hook and if setting post for barn and trusses which are faily light, I add additional length of 2x2xｼ tube into receiver and go from there.

Good idea. I can retrofit an external slide after the fact, if I cut back the rebar tension strap. One of the steel suppliers near me carries the seamless square tube used for receivers.

 

[Leejohn]

whiskywizard,
Nice boom and hitch!!!!!

Highbeam,
Yes it's my B7800 getting a clutch bearing. Here the link if your interested in some more pictures. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/220094-poor-b7800-broke-half.html


LD1,
I'll try and load the attachment of where I got the spec. There must be a misprint.
Would this hold ture? Say at the pin it's 2500lbs and 20" from pins it's 1100lbs and the weight has dropped 400lbs. Now if I go out another 20" do I drop another 400lbs? So at 40" out I'm down to 700lbs and another 20" it would be down to 300lbs. is that the way it works?

LD1 it would not load it's a nt.mht file.

 

[LD1]

whiskywizard,
Nice boom and hitch!!!!!

Highbeam,
Yes it's my B7800 getting a clutch bearing. Here the link if your interested in some more pictures. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kubota-owning-operating/220094-poor-b7800-broke-half.html


LD1,
I'll try and load the attachment of where I got the spec. There must be a misprint.
Would this hold ture? Say at the pin it's 2500lbs and 20" from pins it's 1100lbs and the weight has dropped 400lbs. Now if I go out another 20" do I drop another 400lbs? So at 40" out I'm down to 700lbs and another 20" it would be down to 300lbs. is that the way it works?

LD1 it would not load it's a nt.mht file.

No.

Everything is based on where the lift cylinder applies the force to the loader arm.

Lets say the "pins" are 30" forward fo that and give you a lift cap. of 2500lbs

20" forward of that is now 50" forward of where the lift is applied. So the lift force there would be 3/5ths of the lift (30/50) at the pins. or 1500. So you would have lost 1000lbs. Another 20" out and now you are @ 70". Your lift would now be 3/7ths of the 2500, or 1071lbs.

Its simple levers and I have no idea what your actual measurments are, but this should give you the idea. And this isnt the exact way to figure it either, but it is real close.

The loader is a complex lever that is not straight, and travels in an arc. So there is a TON of figures and meansurments to take if you want exact. But again, the way I mentinoed will get you real close, assuming the MFG spec is correct.

 

[Leejohn]

close enough!! I got it now. Thanks

 

[zzvyb6]

I use just about the same geometry to lift up my windmill heads (motor, fan and tail) onto a test stand. There is one difference: I undersling the backbone (runs underneath) made from flat steel and have several hols drilled along its length it allowing me to attach a chain hook at 4 stations.

The capacity guess of 500 lbs is most likely the top end capacity, but this depends on the curl angle. If the gin pole is straight up, you'll have higher lift capacity but a shorter reach (and need a longer chain). Curling will produce the most lifting speed, when the pole is horizontal, too. That can cause problems when maneuvering the item you are lifting.

I don't recommend welding a hook on the tip because the angle of the dangle might let the chain slip or bind, depending on the bucket angle. Put a ring on it so the chain floats to the most effective and safe connection position.

 

[LD1]

I don't recommend welding a hook on the tip because the angle of the dangle might let the chain slip or bind, depending on the bucket angle. Put a ring on it so the chain floats to the most effective and safe connection position.

Excellent point and I agree 100%. DONT make the hook ridgid. Allow the connectionto float and swivel. Either by a ring, or a swivel hook/eye, etc.

 

[MotorSeven]

WW it's proably too late, but I think your rebar on top should have been about 4-5" high in the center. The steeper that angle the better.

 

[LD1]

WW it's proably too late, but I think your rebar on top should have been about 4-5" high in the center. The steeper that angle the better.

With shortening the total length, and the way he has the angle brace, I dont think he is ever going to bend it.

Allthough there are 2 things I would have done differently (if you are still following this thread WW) and 1 thing it isnt too late for.

First, I would have flattened out 2-3" of the re-bar on the ends to give more weld surface instead of just the small contact point. But probabally too late now.

Second, I am concerned with lateral loads. It looks like if you get a 400-500lb motor on there and turn, motor starts swinging, it looks like it could bend sideways. I would come off the sides, about where your knee-brace is, and add two more peices on an angle. Either back to the bucket top, or down to the cutting edge(compound angle?). And actually, if you do two down to the cutting edge on an angle, you wouldnt even need the one in the middle.:thumbsup:

 

[whiskywizard]

WW it's proably too late, but I think your rebar on top should have been about 4-5" high in the center. The steeper that angle the better.

It's never too late - you just pull out out the grinder!

You're right, from a pure geometry perspective. My rebar is very heavy and already in tension (pre-stressed) so I hope I'm OK as is. The other thing that helps is the system isn't very long, and the materials are all heavy.

 

[whiskywizard]

First, I would have flattened out 2-3" of the re-bar on the ends to give more weld surface instead of just the small contact point. But probabally too late now.

No - not too late. I could cut it off in 2 minutes. I should have done that but was getting impatient. I should re-do that weld.

Second, I am concerned with lateral loads. It looks like if you get a 400-500lb motor on there and turn, motor starts swinging, it looks like it could bend sideways. I would come off the sides, about where your knee-brace is, and add two more peices on an angle. Either back to the bucket top, or down to the cutting edge(compound angle?). And actually, if you do two down to the cutting edge on an angle, you wouldnt even need the one in the middle.:thumbsup:

Agreed. It's not safe the way I have it. Damifino pointed that out to me as well about a half-dozen posts back. I will add hooks so it can be chained or strapped back to the bucket hooks.

All - thanks for the constructive criticism. Much appreciated.

 

[IslandTractor]

Excellent point and I agree 100%. DONT make the hook ridgid. Allow the connectionto float and swivel. Either by a ring, or a swivel hook/eye, etc.

On my tree boom, there are two shackle/clevis attachment points. Works well as you can either secure a chain directly or thread either chain, rope or tow strap through the shackle. I don't have a chain hook mounted on top but that would be convenient to secure the chain after it passes through the shackle. I don't have shackles mounted in the photos below but that is how I usually have it rigged.

 

[Damifino]

As mentioned earlier, sometimes the angle of a fixed hooked position could result in lifting chain, strap, etc, to slip off, it only takes a few seconds to remove the hook and add clevis.

This is why I like the receiver at end of boom, it allows a multitude of options with little effort to change them.

whiskywizard, keep that open mind, I think you're doing a great job and when complete, keep heavy items as low to ground as possible and front wheels as straight as possible.

Once you get the feel of your tractor and how it handles, you might go back and tweak a few things.

Good luck and keep up that positive attitude :thumbsup:

 

[Dargo]

On my tree boom, there are two shackle/clevis attachment points. Works well as you can either secure a chain directly or thread either chain, rope or tow strap through the shackle. I don't have a chain hook mounted on top but that would be convenient to secure the chain after it passes through the shackle. I don't have shackles mounted in the photos below but that is how I usually have it rigged.

You also picked up about 300 pounds of extra lifting capacity by not having to lift a bucket as well. With that size tractor, perhaps the OP should build a rig like yours or utilize a boom pole off of the 3 pt. hitch. You can get plenty of height and the 3 pt. will lift several times as much as a pole going out from the end of the FEL bucket.

I've been there, done that and have the scars and broken bones to show for my learning curve. I have to agree that a cheapo engine hoist from ole Horrible Freight would be the way to go and a safer way. But, since I certainly bear the injuries from trial and errors, I also understand the 'I can build that' desire. With that, I'll just wish the OP to be safe and consider buying or renting the correct tool for the job. I've just gotten to where I no longer like pain. It really starts to hurt after a while.

 

[IslandTractor]

You also picked up about 300 pounds of extra lifting capacity by not having to lift a bucket as well. With that size tractor, perhaps the OP should build a rig like yours or utilize a boom pole off of the 3 pt. hitch. You can get plenty of height and the 3 pt. will lift several times as much as a pole going out from the end of the FEL bucket.

Yep. The tree boom I posted photos of was not real expensive though I forget the exact price. The other implement I have is shown below. I don't even know what it is called but it allows you to mount either a 3PT attachment or 2x2 receiver hitch items on to the FEL. Just a 2x2 pole with perhaps even a ratchet strap reinforcement from the end of the pole to the topping lift point would be plenty strong for a 500lb lift.

 

[Damifino]

Yep. The tree boom I posted photos of was not real expensive though I forget the exact price. The other implement I have is shown below. I don't even know what it is called but it allows you to mount either a 3PT attachment or 2x2 receiver hitch items on to the FEL. Just a 2x2 pole with perhaps even a ratchet strap reinforcement from the end of the pole to the topping lift point would be plenty strong for a 500lb lift.

Nice!! that's a slick setup if I say so.

 

[IslandTractor]

Nice!! that's a slick setup if I say so.

I got it from Rick Wallace. Don't know if he still carries them, whatever they are called.

I use mine primarily with my landscape rake as shown in the photo. Very much more precise than dragging the rake behind the tractor but of course useful mostly for small areas.