Fel Hydrolics

[Curly69]

I have a 2305 with a FEL, a few yrs back I had issues with the control. Took apart cleaned and oiled and it worked although not perfect.
Now even though all works the stick doesn't return to center, there is a lot of pressure in all directions and the longer I use it or the hotter it gets the harder ilthe control is to move.
Any ideas?

 

[npalen]

Does the 2305 loader valve operate directly with the handle or are there control cables between the loader handle and the valve?

 

[Curly69]

No cables all linkage.
Feels as though u are fighting against hydrolics.

 

[npalen]

If it were mine, I would consider disconnecting all the hydraulic lines where they attach to the valve. Then would connect a regulated air pressure line to the "IN" port and do some testing to see where movement of the valve spools directs the air. Also would make sure that the valve handles are actually moving the spools full travel. May want to remove the cap and spring from the other end of the spools and see if anything is broken, loose, etc.

Others will chime in here, hopefully, who have experience with this particular tractor/valve.

 

[npalen]

Any luck, curly69?

 

[loggin]

I have a 2305 with a FEL, a few yrs back I had issues with the control. Took apart cleaned and oiled and it worked although not perfect.
Now even though all works the stick doesn't return to center, there is a lot of pressure in all directions and the longer I use it or the hotter it gets the harder ilthe control is to move.
Any ideas?

I would first off disassemble the linkage and apply grease, moly grease if you have it, to all the pins and the moving parts of the linkage. Oil does not typically last long enough. I would try this first and then go from there.

 

[Curly69]

I disconnected all the linkage and the one piston does not come out all the way. I can pull it out easy enough with my fingers.
Going to grease everything today and put all back together today and we'll see how it works out.

 

[loggin]

I disconnected all the linkage and the one piston does not come out all the way. I can pull it out easy enough with my fingers.
Going to grease everything today and put all back together today and we'll see how it works out.

Please let us know how that turns out.

 

[Curly69]

Put it all back together, linkage.
After 15 min or so of running the tractor there is resistance lowering the bucket and it don't stop unless I put the lever in the middle and also curling the bucket but that will stop when I let go of the lever.
I am fighting pressure, the longer it runs the harder it gets.
I am assuming there is fluid passing thru the valve were it isn't supposed to?

 

[loggin]

Put it all back together, linkage.
After 15 min or so of running the tractor there is resistance lowering the bucket and it don't stop unless I put the lever in the middle and also curling the bucket but that will stop when I let go of the lever.
I am fighting pressure, the longer it runs the harder it gets.
I am assuming there is fluid passing thru the valve were it isn't supposed to?

There may be issues with the internals of the spool/control valves. Internal springs may have failed depending on how it is constructed. I believe you did mention one of the valves not returning to center position. Might have to take the control valves to a specialist unless you are willing to tackle yourself...? How many hours do you have on the machine?

 

[Curly69]

about 1100 hrs. Located a new valve $600.00 but no rebuilding kit, ya can buy all the parts individually though.

 

[LD1]

The valves arent rebuildable unless you have external leakage around the spools, then those seals are replaceable.

Have you done any modifications to the hydraulics? Added remotes, backhoe, or a 3rd function?

 

[Curly69]

The valves arent rebuildable unless you have external leakage around the spools, then those seals are replaceable.

Have you done any modifications to the hydraulics? Added remotes, backhoe, or a 3rd function?

No 100% stock. The only thing other then PM I ever did was 2 batteries and a few cooling fans over 16 yrs.

 

[MacAttack]

Curly you can by most of the parts for your valve body. All the parts seem to be available but the valve body and spools would be very expensive.
You mentioned that you had to manually pull one of the valve spools but that it was easy. This suggests that the return spring is maybe broken for that spool. If that is the case and your hydraulics are building up excess heat it may be the cause. Have you been able to touch the valve body or some other part of the hydraulics and it been to hot to touch? That would explain it getting more difficult to operate the hydraulics.
My theory as to why all this is happening is that your valve not centering and during operation it is partly applying pressure constantly. This will cause more heat build up than the system is designed for.
Check that the hydraulic cooler is not obstructed
Check that radiator is ok also
Can you put your hands on the lines and such without burning your self?
Replace the valve body return springs
I would find out soon as the hydraulics for your FEL share the oil as your hydrostatic drive

 

[Curly69]

Curly you can by most of the parts for your valve body. All the parts seem to be available but the valve body and spools would be very expensive.
You mentioned that you had to manually pull one of the valve spools but that it was easy. This suggests that the return spring is maybe broken for that spool. If that is the case and your hydraulics are building up excess heat it may be the cause. Have you been able to touch the valve body or some other part of the hydraulics and it been to hot to touch? That would explain it getting more difficult to operate the hydraulics.
My theory as to why all this is happening is that your valve not centering and during operation it is partly applying pressure constantly. This will cause more heat build up than the system is designed for.
Check that the hydraulic cooler is not obstructed
Check that radiator is ok also
Can you put your hands on the lines and such without burning your self?
Replace the valve body return springs
I would find out soon as the hydraulics for your FEL share the oil as your hydrostatic drive

I will be cutting grass today so I will check to see if things get hot or not. As I said the longer I use it the stiffer things gets which is why I was thinking something was passing where it shouldn't be the longer I use it.

TY!

 

[Tx Jim]

All spools & spool valve bodies must be replaced as set not individually. New 2 spool valve assembly can be purchased for about $300

 

[Curly69]

All spools & spool valve bodies must be replaced as set not individually. New 2 spool valve assembly can be purchased for about $300

Ya wouldn't happen to have a part number would ya?

 

[beenthere]

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/64360/referrer/navigation/pgId/2414434

 

[loggin]

Ya wouldn't happen to have a part number would ya?

I believe this link will take you to the parts diagram:

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/64360/referrer/navigation/pgId/2414434

 

[Curly69]

Curly you can by most of the parts for your valve body. All the parts seem to be available but the valve body and spools would be very expensive.
You mentioned that you had to manually pull one of the valve spools but that it was easy. This suggests that the return spring is maybe broken for that spool. If that is the case and your hydraulics are building up excess heat it may be the cause. Have you been able to touch the valve body or some other part of the hydraulics and it been to hot to touch? That would explain it getting more difficult to operate the hydraulics.
My theory as to why all this is happening is that your valve not centering and during operation it is partly applying pressure constantly. This will cause more heat build up than the system is designed for.
Check that the hydraulic cooler is not obstructed
Check that radiator is ok also
Can you put your hands on the lines and such without burning your self?
Replace the valve body return springs
I would find out soon as the hydraulics for your FEL share the oil as your hydrostatic drive

I don't know what temp the control body is to be at but after mowing for a few hrs the bucket control is very hard, the valve body temp is about 145* and it's 85* outside.