FEL level indicator

[JB4310]

Not to criticize the OP's efforts, but it seems complicated, my 300cx has the bent rod which I utilize constantly, is very easy to use. more production with less effort. IMO the bent rod looks better/easier than the straight rod with painted lines.

JB.

 

[jimmer2880]

Not to criticize the OP's efforts, but it seems complicated, my 300cx has the bent rod which I utilize constantly, is very easy to use. more production with less effort. IMO the bent rod looks better/easier than the straight rod with painted lines.

JB.

Would you mind taking a couple more pics of your setup? I think I like the simplier approach as well.

I had the stick inside of a tube on my old MF. It worked ok but I think I like your setup better.

 

[3RRL]

Not to criticize the OP's efforts, but it seems complicated, my 300cx has the bent rod which I utilize constantly, is very easy to use. more production with less effort. IMO the bent rod looks better/easier than the straight rod with painted lines.

JB.

IMO the red LED indicating level would be the nicest of all.
I don't see how you get "more production with less effort" from that bent rod indicator. You both have to move the bucket to the indicated level and both use the fel joystick to do that, right? Does the bent rod make it easier to do that?

 

[WaxMan]

Wax man that is what I am going to do to my loader, great job and When I work in the brush I think your design will hold up. Imitation is the greatest form of flattery.

Thanks Guys,
Well if I was going to make one again I would do two things different.
1) And most important Use a stainless steel rod so it matches the piston of the cylinder (shinny) and won't rust.

2) instead of cutting the marks where the white paint is , I would leave that high so that too would be polished stainless steel as the mark instead of white paint. I would just cut down the black area.
The reason I cut it down is so the paint won't wear off. I repainted the orange a while ago and wiped some of the black indicator off cleaning up the (not stainless steel) rod at that time and never got around to fixing it until today.
So if your going to make one , Don't make the same mistakes as I did.
I still would like 3 pilot lights in the cab instead. But I don't think I would want to drill three of those sensors in a row on the fel arm.

 

[JB4310]

IMO the red LED indicating level would be the nicest of all.
I don't see how you get "more production with less effort" from that bent rod indicator. You both have to move the bucket to the indicated level and both use the fel joystick to do that, right? Does the bent rod make it easier to do that?

Rob,
I'm all for experimenting with new ideas, it's how useful things evolve, that's why I said "not to criticize the OP's efforts" critiquing the results should be encouraged here IMO.
So, I said it seemed complicated but I guess it really isn't, the main problem is with out the other green indicator lights referred to by Dave (ACHINBAC) in post #7, How would you know which side of red you were on? thus which way to move the stick. To be as useful as a rod indicator you would need to have a scale of lights.

As far as the More production less effort claim, I was not considering the light indicator, but was comparing to the straight rod and tube or those with no indicator at all. I do think the bent rod is an improvement over the straight, I've had both. JD engineering must agree, with the bent rod it kinda "drops" in making it easier to stop in the right position unlike trying to dial in that painted/notched mark. It's not night and day but it does take less effort......

I only care about my bucket attitude when on the ground, but how about this, for all those who want to know when their bucket is level at all heights, I'm thinking something like one of those tilt meters with electric pick ups along it's scale, mounted to the bucket, sending a signal to a full LED scale indicator on the dash?

Better yet, something built into the hydraulics where a level bucket could be achieved at any time with the touch of a momentary on button right on the joy stick. I suppose that would be a little to complicated.

JB.

 

[wedge40]

As everyone has pointed out so far.. Bucket level is dependent on the arm position. What is needed are two level indicators. One that show the position of the arms and another that shows the position of the bucket. And if you wanted to get real fancy some way to tie the two together. I have the bar through the tube and will paint mine in the spring. But I figure like the guys with a lot of seat time are saying, after awhile it just becomes natural. When we learned to tie our shoes as a child we had to look at what we were doing each time. I would hope most everyone could tie them in the dark now.

Wedge

 

[WaxMan]

Rob,
I'm all for experimenting with new ideas, it's how useful things evolve, that's why I said "not to criticize the OP's efforts" critiquing the results should be encouraged here IMO.
So, I said it seemed complicated but I guess it really isn't, the main problem is with out the other green indicator lights referred to by Dave (ACHINBAC) in post #7, How would you know which side of red you were on? thus which way to move the stick. To be as useful as a rod indicator you would need to have a scale of lights.

As far as the More production less effort claim, I was not considering the light indicator, but was comparing to the straight rod and tube or those with no indicator at all. I do think the bent rod is an improvement over the straight, I've had both. JD engineering must agree, with the bent rod it kinda "drops" in making it easier to stop in the right position unlike trying to dial in that painted/notched mark. It's not night and day but it does take less effort......

I only care about my bucket attitude when on the ground, but how about this, for all those who want to know when their bucket is level at all heights, I'm thinking something like one of those tilt meters with electric pick ups along it's scale, mounted to the bucket, sending a signal to a full LED scale indicator on the dash?

Better yet, something built into the hydraulics where a level bucket could be achieved at any time with the touch of a momentary on button right on the joy stick. I suppose that would be a little to complicated.

JB.

The bent rod may drop in but you still have to fumble forward or back to make sure it's all the way at the bend, same amount of work with the painted line. I think the line is easer to see when you're on the mark then the bent rod. Plus it's seems that it would be harder to tip the bucket up or down a little off level, once out of the bend. Do you eyeball gauge 1/2 inch in/ out of the bend? I also think the straight tube has less of a stick and brush grabber without that long skinny unprotected rod flapping around. That is why I made the straight rod instead of the bent rod set up.
But this is all just my opinion and not fact. JD engineering must agree only because it's the cheapest way they found to do it, which is far better then Kubota's cheapest way, the bent piece of metal on the bucket.

Whether you have a red light, straight rod , bent rod or just using the top of the bucket, at the time of "hitting the mark" there is the same amount of finesse to hit the mark, pro non pro etc. Some people get great at hitting the bend, some at hitting the painted line, some at eyeballing the bucket.
Lets think of the guy that doesn't have a tractor and uses a shovel.
Either way we have it pretty dam easy.

 

[ACHINBAC]

Wax, If I had done the rod method I would have done it exactly like yours with a stainless indicator (I have pounds of stainless on the BX from all my mods - every single bolt) - you have the most sano ("qualitay" as my teen son would say) set up I've seen yet.

In order for my light set up to register correctly, I have to dump the bucket past parallel (as in dumping a load) and then bring it up; the second the light comes on the bucket will be exactly parallel with the front and back wheels when the arms are dropped.

As others have pointed out, more quality seat time might eliminate the need for the indicator but tonight when I go out to get rid of the 10" we've gotten today so far (still dumpin) and my bucket top is covered in snow making it hard to visually register it, most of my gravel drive and lawn will still be intact when I'm done.

Dave

 

[WaxMan]

Wax, If I had done the rod method I would have done it exactly like yours with a stainless indicator (I have pounds of stainless on the BX from all my mods - every single bolt) - you have the most sano ("qualitay" as my teen son would say) set up I've seen yet.

In order for my light set up to register correctly, I have to dump the bucket past parallel (as in dumping a load) and then bring it up; the second the light comes on the bucket will be exactly parallel with the front and back wheels when the arms are dropped.

As others have pointed out, more quality seat time might eliminate the need for the indicator but tonight when I go out to get rid of the 10" we've gotten today so far (still dumpin) and my bucket top is covered in snow making it hard to visually register it, most of my gravel drive and lawn will still be intact when I'm done.

Dave

Dave
I wonder if that is you in the picture? So that's how you come up with these crazy new ideas,
Good point with the bucket top full of snow.

A little off subject but here is another one of my projects.
My outrigger legs would drop after a few days on my woods backhoe. I didn't want to use a chain or bungee cord to keep them up.
So I center drilled and tapped the lower piston pin and drilled and tapped the outrigger leg. I used 1/2 inch stainless steel bolts which I machined the heads to minimize it from sticking out.
It's spring loaded to stay in place either in use or not. They work very well.

 

[JB4310]

WaxMan,
You forced me to observe my indicator closely today while out moving snow, I will not argue which is better, I think yours looks excellent, I didn't realize you did yours from scratch, thought you just painted lines on original equipment, not familiar with kubota but assumed all manufacturers had some type of straight rod and tube like my older JD loader.

It's interesting, I never thought much about how/why mine's so easy. Reason being its more like it's an intuitive interaction, don't know how to describe it better, what happens is the rod actually moves in a different direction as it passes that crook in the rod, not 90 degrees different but enough to make it difficult not to notice when the bucket reaches level. Yes you can go past level and have to go back a bit like you mentioned.

BTW, I like the stabilizer locks, I"ve got a rope holding mine together while it sits stored.

The more I think about this I do believe an led indicator is probably going to be the way of the future for bucket level indicators.

Don't know that I agree with the idea that an indicator is not necessary for experienced operators, I wouldn't want to be with out one.

Dave, I hope that ski jump picture is a photoshop job!!!

jimmer, a couple of pics you asked for.

Keep up the good work all,
JB.

 

[jimmer2880]

Thanks for the pics JB. I think that's another project for this spring/summer

 

[WaxMan]

JB
I have never used an indicator like yours but your right it must work pretty well with the notch, these new pictures show better how it works.
It does look good following along the same lines as the metal fel lines.
Your tractor looks really good out there in the snow, it looks brand spanking new, is it?
I agree with you, if you have the indicator and it works why not just glance over at it seems pretty easy to me.
It's probably because the mark wore off or was cut too short or it got bent is the real reason people end up not using it. After they broke it and beat it all up they're considered experienced, just kidding guys.
Dave said it all, when your bucket is buried in the snow , now what, guess, I guess.
Gee's your tractor looks so clean. I have to go wax mine again. '

 

[ACHINBAC]

Waxman,
No problem on the off topic - you've obviously earned the right as those clips are "Clean!" (trust the springs are 316 also . . .) I'll see your hijack and raise the following;

Center bored and tapped two 1/2" and two 5/8" stainless bolt stubs to accept the four stock ROP 8mm locking knobs in order to replace the stock 5/8 ROP pins and for two 1/2" pins for the braces on my canopy. Even the cobalt bits had a hard time & had to resharpen a couple times. Would give a left nut for some of the nice milling equip. I've seen on this site.

Dave

Ps: the Jackson Hole huge air pic was supposed to attach to the customize your tractor coat thread . .

 

[WaxMan]

Waxman,
No problem on the off topic - you've obviously earned the right as those clips are "Clean!" (trust the springs are 316 also . . .) I'll see your hijack and raise the following;

Center bored and tapped two 1/2" and two 5/8" stainless bolt stubs to accept the four stock ROP 8mm locking knobs in order to replace the stock 5/8 ROP pins and for two 1/2" pins for the braces on my canopy. Even the cobalt bits had a hard time & had to resharpen a couple times. Would give a left nut for some of the nice milling equip. I've seen on this site.

Dave

Ps: the Jackson Hole huge air pic was supposed to attach to the customize your tractor coat thread . .

Dave
Well nice pins you made there.

I'll see your pins and raise you my stack.

I didn't like the black soot and the exhaust smell in front of my tractor so my very first project was a stack pipe. I wanted it to look factory and follow the cab and blend in with it. It's attached with rubber two isolators at the cab one of the fel bolts and the original clamp at the muffler on and off in one piece in 2 mins works great and sounds great too.
I have since updated the end to blow off to the side instead of up.

 

[ACHINBAC]

Wax,

I'm afraid I may have to call this hand. I've got a pair, but that won't beat a full house - cab makes it a royal flush.

Your deal . . .

Dave

PS: ****, you've got one o dem fanci drill presses I see . . . . .

 

[WaxMan]

Wax,

I'm afraid I may have to call this hand. I've got a pair, but that won't beat a full house - cab makes it a royal flush.

Your deal . . .

Dave

PS: ****, you've got one o dem fanci drill presses I see . . . . .

I guess I'm going to have to stop before they get mad at me for messing up your thread.


I don't think my drill press is all that great,

I do have a nice 1958 Lathe and 1969 Bridgeport though.

 

[ACHINBAC]

Wax,

You're killing me with those toys . . . what I wouldn't give.

They'd never get me out of the garage.

Since we've skewed so far off topic, Ill throw this out there also - though it was initially linked to a "tractor project". At one point I was going to afix a base to the FEL to accept some of my extension ladders and then guy them to my outriggers - I have a lot of limbs to remove from our landscape, after almost 20 yrs our original plantings have gotten out of hand and need extensive reshaping. I scrapped the tractor Idea and built the unit in the pics while recuperating from four broken ribs this summer. It attaches to the top of any extension ladder and is controlled by the remote in the picture. The cross member is a 150 lb linear actuator, the rubber bumpers (trunk or limb grabbers) are nose guides for a boat trailer, and inside is the receiver and 12v nickel batt pack. Was chopped from a painters ladder standoff bracket. You extend the ladder to the branch or trunk you want, press the button on the transmitter while on the ground and the unit grabs on tight. Once up the ladder you tie off with the blue lines for safety. Can hold on to fairly light branches - kind of like creating a giant step ladder.

Dave

PS: By the way Waxman, you've got to lose that nondescript hood ornament . .

 

[Ridgewalker]

My last job I worked with a bridgeport just enough to know that ever man needs one. Nice toys!

 

[WaxMan]

Wax,

You're killing me with those toys . . . what I wouldn't give.

They'd never get me out of the garage.

Since we've skewed so far off topic, Ill throw this out there also - though it was initially linked to a "tractor project". At one point I was going to afix a base to the FEL to accept some of my extension ladders and then guy them to my outriggers - I have a lot of limbs to remove from our landscape, after almost 20 yrs our original plantings have gotten out of hand and need extensive reshaping. I scrapped the tractor Idea and built the unit in the pics while recuperating from four broken ribs this summer. It attaches to the top of any extension ladder and is controlled by the remote in the picture. The cross member is a 150 lb linear actuator, the rubber bumpers (trunk or limb grabbers) are nose guides for a boat trailer, and inside is the receiver and 12v nickel batt pack. Was chopped from a painters ladder standoff bracket. You extend the ladder to the branch or trunk you want, press the button on the transmitter while on the ground and the unit grabs on tight. Once up the ladder you tie off with the blue lines for safety. Can hold on to fairly light branches - kind of like creating a giant step ladder.

Dave

PS: By the way Waxman, you've got to lose that nondescript hood ornament . .

Nice Job, You really need a Bridgeport with your ingenuity. The things you can make.

I like my hood ornament, what do you chrome plate Too ?
Dave I sent you a PM

 

[ACHINBAC]

In my dreams Wax,

This is a simple 2 bay garage with a couple hand tools (should have done the three bay when we built, but we were young and foolish (and poor) back then. Pics tonight . . .