FEL pressure measurement locations

[California]

This shows what adapters you might use to mount a gauge:

For diagnosis, I put on a pressure gauge where the lower hose connects to the OEM divider block.

'Before' photo:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...oader-plumbing-p1650635rym240dividerblock-jpg

'After' photo:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...s-series-loader-p1360422rhydgaugefittings-jpg

I intended that to be temporary but its still there. I should have mounted it at the other end of that hose, where it enters the loader control valve. That location would be easier to see while driving around.

 

[LD1]

So it sounds like you have a cable controlled valve.

You have ruled out cylinders and hoses.

You swapped cables and the curl cables work fine on the loader lift.

So we know by that test that the loader lift spool is good.
Before swap, the curl worked fine, so we know that spool is fine as is the curl cables.

At this point, I think all things are possible to lift cable.

 

[newbury]

I swapped the lift and curl cables and the loader lifts fine with load. I guess this definitely points to the cylinders as the problem.
Strange that there was no leakage or flow by in the cylinders. Thanks for the help.

How much "load"? 500lbs?

This shows what adapters you might use to mount a gauge:

For diagnosis, I put on a pressure gauge where the lower hose connects to the OEM divider block.

'Before' photo:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...oader-plumbing-p1650635rym240dividerblock-jpg

'After' photo:
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...s-series-loader-p1360422rhydgaugefittings-jpg

I intended that to be temporary but its still there. I should have mounted it at the other end of that hose, where it enters the loader control valve. That location would be easier to see while driving around.

Good pics

 

[California]

I replaced my 30 year old loader valve when it dribbled on my shoe while lifting this 650 lb tank. (Photo) I had noticed minor seepage before but this is what convinced me it was time to make repairs.

Relevant to Ben's problem: I found chunks of (presumed) hydraulic hose lining where one of the loader hoses connected to the control valve. It wasn't responsible for the dribble, that was caused by sloppy clearances in the valve, but debris like this might block pressure sent to the loader.

It might be a good idea to blow out the lines if you suspect there might be debris in there. And put the discharge end into a bucket so you can see if anything came out.

 

[Ben755]

The cabling that runs from the lift port on the control valve to the loader cylinder lift ports (both cylinders) was removed and connected to the bucket curl port and the loader raised quickly
with heavy load. That test should say that the cabling is not the problem, and low pressure from the lift port on the control valve is suspect. I put the new control valve back on and it will
raise the loader slowly with load when engine is revved up a bit, but nothing like it raised in the swap test.

 

[Ben755]

So it sounds like you have a cable controlled valve.

You have ruled out cylinders and hoses.

You swapped cables and the curl cables work fine on the loader lift.

So we know by that test that the loader lift spool is good.
Before swap, the curl worked fine, so we know that spool is fine as is the curl cables.

At this point, I think all things are possible to lift cable


No, the lift cables worked fine when connected to the control valve curl function port. Moving the joystick laterally to the left lifted the loader.
The curl cables were connected to the valve lift port and the curl function failed.

 

[LD1]

The cabling that runs from the lift port on the control valve to the loader cylinder lift ports (both cylinders) was removed and connected to the bucket curl port and the loader raised quickly
with heavy load. That test should say that the cabling is not the problem, and low pressure from the lift port on the control valve is suspect. I put the new control valve back on and it will
raise the loader slowly with load when engine is revved up a bit, but nothing like it raised in the swap test.

You are confusing "cabling" with hydraulic hoses it sounds like. Probably why everyone (myself included) is confused.

If you swapped hoses, and the lift works fine, then the issue points to the valve or linkage that controls the valve. Which can STILL be a cable controlled valve. Dont know that model so I dont know there

 

[LD1]

So it sounds like you have a cable controlled valve.

You have ruled out cylinders and hoses.

You swapped cables and the curl cables work fine on the loader lift.

So we know by that test that the loader lift spool is good.
Before swap, the curl worked fine, so we know that spool is fine as is the curl cables.

At this point, I think all things are possible to lift cable


No, the lift cables worked fine when connected to the control valve curl function port. Moving the joystick laterally to the left lifted the loader.
The curl cables were connected to the valve lift port and the curl function failed.

Was typing when you posted this. They are NOT cables. Thus the confusion.

 

[Ben755]

Yes, of course, I should have written hoses instead of cables - it just didn't come to mind that I keep writing cables. Well, I don't know enough about directional control valves to realize that
cabling could be involved. I don't think that is the case with my valve though. I'm using a 2 spool open center single stick valve from Brand Hydraulics - very similar to the valve that came
with the loader.

 

[CalG]

Ben

Have you checked the pressure relief on the valve "similar to the valve that came with the loader".
The adjustment is under cover cap.
Sometimes they are set "very light". Just a usual manufacturing variable.

Remove cover, loosen lock nut, screw the adjuster in three or four turns and see what happens. I had a new "Prince" three spool valve with the pressure relief set to less than 1k psi as supplied.

Talk about poor lifting...;-)

There may be some "issues" with the power beyond and return to tank line installation as well.

You really should draw yourself a picture of how EVERY HOSE AND LINE IS CONNECTED TO THAT VALVE.
It\s easy to get lines crossed.