FEL sod cutter

[weesa20]

I want to move approx. 400 sq ft of nearly perfect sod from my side yard (where my garage will be built this fall) to my back yard. I plan to excavate about 4" of the bad sod and topsoil from the backyard and place the sod from the side yard in that area.

I have done this kind of activity on a smaller scale by hand with a spade shovel. I was hoping to design an attachment for the FEL of my GC2300 b/c I really don't want to do it by hand.

I was thinking of a triangular piece of 1/2 steel that could be connected to the bucket or possibly by building a frame to attach to the arms with the bucket removed. I would sharpen the edge so that it could cut and make the point of the triangle the leading part of the cutter and it would be in the same plane as the bottom edge of the sod. I would put some height guides in the leading edge and the back edge to ensure an even cut. I was thinking the base of the triangle would be about 3 feet wide or so.

Any ideas or suggestions?

W

 

[texasjohn]

I haven't tried it, but wonder why the FEL, no toothbar, wouldn't work just as it is??

At metal scrap yards you can sometimes find a bolt-on blade that could be sharpened up and welded up to make the cutter part of the attachment you are describing.

Just ideas... haven't done what you are seeking to do.

 

[JerryG]

This implement is for the three point and its listed to remove trees and brush, but I don't see why it wouldn't work to remove sod. It might have to be angled different.
http://www.dallasweb.com/jones/

 

[gizmo]

I have removed a bit of zoysia sod--about 75 sqft--with my FEL and I gotta tell ya, it's tough to control the cut depth. I ended up with nicely cut pieces that I was able to reuse, but had to get a lot more soil than you would find on purchased or properly cut sod. The pieces were really heavy.

 

[Egon]

The type of tool JerryG has shown should work very well on the three point. Size it so the tractor pulls it easily. A sharpened and straightened truck leaf spring should work great for the cutting edge. Should have skid plates to control depth. The cut sod should be able to be rolled up.

It cold also be used for cultivating purposes.

 

[weesa20]

Thanks for all the feedback...I had thought about the 3 pt hitch attachment but it wouldn't have any downforce on my tractor and I am not sure my GC would have enough power/traction.

I have used a gas engine 25 HP mini-tracked machine (think small Toro Dingo)and it really struggled with a 48" bucket. I don't think my GC has enough power/traction to push the whole cutting edge of the bucket under the sod. I was thinking the triangular shape and sharpended edge would reduce the strain.

I am not sure if I should build a replacement frame and add quick connect plates or just build an add-on to the bucket. I can do whatever welding and design is necessary but not sure of what size material to use (2 in vs 4 in box? 1/2 in or bigger for the front edge?)

W

 

[Farwell]

A while back a guy on Ebay sold blades that will bolt on to the FEL. The blade was mounted so it rode a few inches below the existing FEL blade. This blade had a sharp edge on it and could be mounted and used in either direction. The guy used the blade to cut wild berry bushes and vines below the surface. According to him the roots cut much easier than the stems. He posted photos and it looked like it worked quite well. I do not see why this could not be used to cut sod if it was modified a little.
I found his auction by searching for a root ripper.
Farwell

 

[AchingBack]

Why don't you just rent a sod cutter? Based on the cutting mechanism of commercial sod cutters compared to your idea, it sounds like you will be tearing up your sod with the implement you are designing. On the other hand, if time and trial are not an issue - go for it. You might just be the next John Deere.

 

[Egon]

For the three point it does not have to be full width, down angle on the cutting edge, skid shoes to control depth.

 

[jinman]

I've had pretty good luck using a dirt scoop on the 3PH and pushing it in reverse to undercut St. Augustine sod. It was actually more trouble to put down than to cut. You can move about 5 sq ft per load if you are careful. The problem with the FEL is visibility and precise control. With the dirt scoop, you can turn around in your seat and carefully feather the 3PH to cut about 2" deep. Even then, the job won't be perfect and you'll need a nice sand bed to lay the sod into to make it look nice. In about one season, it should smooth out and fill in nicely if it's nurtured properly.

 

[3RRL]

I was going to say that using the FEL would be real hard to control depth of cut, either too deep or skimming and cutting through the grass and wiping it out. Any dipping caused by high or low spots would wreak havoc with trying to control a constant depth of cut.

However, I thought if a guy could get that sod cutting blade like mentioned above on eBay, and then fashioned gauge wheels for the FEL...well now THAT'S an idea?

Maybe the weight of the FEL in float and a little downward angle on the cutting blade (but adjustable in case) and the gauge wheels might do the trick? The downward angle on the cutting blade and float would try to make the blade cut deeper, but the gauge wheels would hold the depth of cut constant...what do you think? I can picture cutting a swath and returning to roll it up?

Or...if you got really creative, use the same concept and position that cutting blade and gauge wheels way up front, ahead of the FEL bucket via brackets that attach to the side of the bucket and at the same level as the bucket front lip. That puts the bucket lip at approximately the same depth as the cutting lip but behind it. Now you could do the same thing except trail the cut off grass and scoop it up in the bucket at the same time...hahaha

 

[PSDStu]

I was thinking that you might be able to attach the same sort of cutting edge to the bottom of a box blade and use it to cut the sod?