Felling dead tree

[Cord]

A couple of months ago I was cutting a dead tree that had a significant lean to it. I was pulling the tree in the direction that I wanted it to fall as I cut it. Over the chain saw I heard a loud crack overhead. I immediately let go of the saw and turned to my left. Didn't even make a full step when the top 6' of the tree fell right where I had been standing. Of course by now the tree was falling and my unattended saw was doing a really nice pirouette through the air. This fell could have gone so wrong that now it's got me a little hesitant to drop some more dead trees. This weekend I'd like to fell 8 popular trees that died over the last couple of years. Some died just this past year and still have all their branches. I think these trees are pretty safe. There are a couple that have been dead for a few years and have lost their branches. These are the ones I'm worried about. Is there a safer way to drop the trees that are loaded with widow makers? The pop'ls like to form trunk rot that's concealed by the bark so I've learned to not climb them.

 

[MMagis]

Can you hook a chain as high as possible, and give each tree a good jerk with the tractor? I’m thinking that should knock off any dangerously loose limbs and such. I’m just throwing out ideas, I don’t know if that’s the best idea or not.

 

[k0ua]

I would try to pull them over with a long chain too. What ever you do, don't try to push them over.

 

[handirifle]

If you try to pull them over, make sure the rope/chain is longer then the tree is tall or else you will pull it on you.

 

[Deerherd]

The absolutely safest way is to hire a bucket truck that can cut them from the top down. On the surface it's also the most expensive but a mistake here can result in severe injury or damage to nearby structures. I will pull dead trees and leaners over with my logging winch in areas it's safe to do so but I also have enough experience and close calls to realize in some instances, the ONLY safe way is to hire the bucket truck.

 

[Eldubya]

If you do try to pull them down, if possible, get your line around another tree, or block and off at an angle so you are travelling in a direction different to where the tree is going to fall.
No matter what method you use, have someone spotting for you. They can yell if something is falling above you, or at worst.... someone to call 911.

 

[newbury]

Can you hook a chain as high as possible, and give each tree a good jerk with the tractor? I’m thinking that should knock off any dangerously loose limbs and such. I’m just throwing out ideas, I don’t know if that’s the best idea or not.

That's similar to what I would do, and have done. If the tree is narrow and straight growing take a light rope and sling it as high as possible in the tree. I used a small weighted bag and 1/4" nylon line to get a line over a high branch, then pulled up a long heavy rope. You can then shake it and use it to ensure the tree falls.

If the tree is bushy all bets are off.

 

[CobyRupert]

Can't tell from your description, but did the pulling make it snap? Probably not if it was only the top 6 ft? But maybe so if branches were hitting on another tree?
I guess I'm wondering why it decided to snap at that moment when it had been fine for months/years before?

I don't wear a hardhat much, but when trees have dead limbs or tops are mixed/entangled/touching another tree - you betcha!

 

[oosik]

For years & years I cut trees on the property for firewood. The only trees I have here are Ponderosa pine - 80-120 feet tall & up to 38" on the butt. I've never had a widow maker but I think a lot of that is because there are seasonal high winds that will bring loose limbs down, naturally.

I've learned thru dangerous situations that its best not to fall these pines when the wind blows. Had my share that would come back and pin the chainsaw. Found that the best answer for a pinned saw is just wait for the wind to blow and reopen the cut, so the saw can be jerked out.

Otherwise, I would pull on the tree, thru a snatch block, so you are definitely out of the line where the tree is going to fall.

I can say this even though I never used this technique. All the pines on my property - 24" to 38" - are so much bigger & heavier than even my new tractor that if the tree got caught in the wind, and fell the wrong way, it would pull my new tractor as if it were a toy. Not a good thing.

 

[4570Man]

These things are called widow makers for a reason. My dad was almost killed by a dead pine tree. The ones with the dead limbs aka flying missiles are the worst.

 

[Texas Dawg]

Unfortunately I lost a friend 2 weeks ago to something like this. He was removing a tree that fell on the house. No one witnessed how it happened, but the tree fell on him an broke his neck. This is something that we all do all the time w/o thinking a lot about it, but probably one of the more dangerous things we do.

 

[CobyRupert]

I've learned thru dangerous situations that its best not to fall these pines when the wind blows. Had my share that would come back and pin the chainsaw. Found that the best answer for a pinned saw is just wait for the wind to blow and reopen the cut, so the saw can be jerked out.

Otherwise, I would pull on the tree, thru a snatch block, so you are definitely out of the line where the tree is going to fall.

I can say this even though I never used this technique. All the pines on my property - 24" to 38" - are so much bigger & heavier than even my new tractor that if the tree got caught in the wind, and fell the wrong way, it would pull my new tractor as if it were a toy. Not a good thing.

For a pinned saw: A wedge and a sledge hammer are good tools to take with you. It's amazing how big of a tree you can lift up/pivot over with a wedge. In fact, putting the wedge in behind the saw as you do the back cut will prevent the pinch. Just don't cut through your hinge; because, unlike the pinched saw telling you, you'll never know the tree is going the wrong way until it's too late.

For a tree that is nearly vertical, it takes very little force to direct it (be it by wedge or tractor, or even a human pulling a rope). Obviously, the farther away from vertical it is, the more force is required. I guess what I'm saying is it's not only the size of the tree. But like you mention, the wind does become a big factor (especially with pines).

 

[Cord]

Can't tell from your description, but did the pulling make it snap? Probably not if it was only the top 6 ft? But maybe so if branches were hitting on another tree?
I guess I'm wondering why it decided to snap at that moment when it had been fine for months/years before?

I don't wear a hardhat much, but when trees have dead limbs or tops are mixed/entangled/touching another tree - you betcha!

The tree was actually dead and the top was rotted. We were using a atv winch to pull it because there was so little crown weight left. When the hinge cut cracked the tree shook and the last of the crown fell out.

 

[Cord]

I should noted that this area is deep in the forest and inaccessible to tractor or bucket truck. I've taken trees down with lifts before and feel that is by far the best way to take one down.

The way the winch loaded the last tree I believe is the reason why the crown fell out of it. If we hadn't put strain on the trunk it probably would have broken on the way down and fell away from me.

 

[TractorGuy]

I recently cut several trees that were leaning some in the wrong direction. As suggested I tied a rope as high as I could reach and wrapped it around the base of another tree or stump that was in the direction I wanted it to fall. Then I pulled at 90 degrees with the tractor. I had one that tried to go wrong and pinched the saw. I was far enough toward the hinge cut that I just turned off the saw and mounted the tractor to put more pressure on it. The tree succumbed and fell in the direction I wanted and the saw fell to the ground. These were all living trees so they weren't quite as dangerous.

A few weeks back I had a dead limb fall and hit me in the head. I was just unhooking my car trailer when it happened. Put my lights out for a second but I remained conchious and standing. Had some clean towels on the truck seat so I grabbed one and held pressure on the wound while I went to the house. When I went back out and looked I found the 8 foot long limb had bounced off my head and landed on the other side of my truck from where I was standing.

 

[Ed of all trades]

Most people don't think about how much leverage you have when you put a line up in a tree and pull on it. Can't tell how high you had the line but it might have been better if you had just had someone pull on it by hand. Your wench might have been the problem as you said. When I am cutting I never let anyone pull on the tree with equipment of any kind unless I have finished the cut and they are just giving it a tug or easy push. Ed

 

[rekees4300]

There are a couple that have been dead for a few years and have lost their branches. These are the ones I'm worried about. Is there a safer way to drop the trees that are loaded with widow makers?

Discretion is the better part of valor. These types of trees are very dangerous. The safest way is to do nothing. Time/gravity will drop the trees for you. However, if you don't want to wait, hire a professional.

 

[dstig1]

Actually you should be more worried about the poplars than you are. They are very split-prone. I had a friend helping on my property have a close call with a barber chair on one that was perfectly healthy. And is is VERY experienced in logging. A lot of times they are not as they rot easily and not always visibly from the outside. You can start cutting into one you think is perfectly fine, and partway in - zip! the saw moves fast all of a sudden as there is no wood in there. Poplars I watch like a hawk when felling. They make me very nervous. If I can, and especially if they are in a bad place, I will take them out when they are small and the risks are lower. No sense letting them get big as they just rot and snap or fall over early. Poplars are forest weeds. They grow fast and early in a forest and then die off when the slower growing stuff takes over (Oak, maple, cherry, etc)

 

[Coyote machine]

I just posted a video in the chainsaw forum here on TBN. It shows how to avoid 'barber chair' effects and how the hinge is designed to work if done properly. It also shows plunge cuts, etc. It is VERY worthwhile to watch and learn from this certified Husky pro instructor. Before you attempt any more seriously dangerous cutting of dead trees or even live ones I strongly urge you, and anyone else reading this thread to watch the video.

Here's the link: Note it is somewhat long and tedious at times, but entirely worthwhile if you value living over the alternative.

https://youtu.be/Teb2bQsqx44

 

[Dieseljeeper]

Another way to direct a leaner is to cut a chunk out of the trunk to accommodate a small bottle jack. You want this on the back side before you start your hinge cut. Put a small amount of pressure on with the jack then make your hinge cut slowly until the saw stars cutting easy or you begin getting rotten wood then give the jack more pressure. This will generally break the tree and let it fall in the desired direction, however it is best to use a piece of rebar or anything that spaces you away from the jack in case it barber chairs or breaks at the top.