fence ideas

[Beavis]

I have approximately 1000 ft. of frontage and would like to get some ideas for fencing. The fencing would not be used for livestock, but basically a boundry marker and something to prevent people from driving onto the property or around the gates. The neighbor has white vinyl fencing, which I'd like to stay away from. I have considered used telephone poles, old oilfield pipe, or even the treated post from Tractor Supply. Any photos that could give me ideas would be appreciated. Concerns: with oilfield pipe, what methods can be used to cap the top of them? With treated post from Tractor Supply, what is a real lifespan for them?

THANKS

 

[whistlepig]

Good description of what you don't want. What do you want?

 

[SuperDuty335]

Old power poles/telephone poles for posts every 50' or so with a few treated posts in between. Attach, let's say, 5 strands of high tensile wire. It's quick and easy and looks good.

 

[JIGBUILDER]

Steel is high. Just bought 7 rolls of 12 1/2 ga 4 point barb wire. 75 bucks a roll. If I had done this 2 years ago the same wirs was 43 bucks. Steel T posts have come up 40-60 percent in the same time.

I'm all rural here so a 5 or 6 strand wire fence fits in ok. Wire come 2 pt or 4 pt or barbless.

Check with some of your area fence supply stores and look through their catalogs.

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

got cedars you could pull and strip branches off of to use for posts and stiles?
if you're not looking for something to keep critters in/out, it would work to let the world know not to traipse across, while helping you clear trash trees out of your pasture.

 

[Beavis]

got cedars you could pull and strip branches off of to use for posts and stiles?
if you're not looking for something to keep critters in/out, it would work to let the world know not to traipse across, while helping you clear trash trees out of your pasture.

Unfortunately I don't have trees, but that is a good idea. I have thought about hiring a tree spade to move dozens of cedars from pastures; I think I can get the trees for free and the spade would probably be $20-$30 per tree.

I have also considered the single strand of 1/2 wire/cable between wooden post. Keeping it shorter; maybe 2' poles.

thanks

 

[radioman]

Unfortunately I don't have trees, but that is a good idea. I have thought about hiring a tree spade to move dozens of cedars from pastures; I think I can get the trees for free and the spade would probably be $20-$30 per tree.

I have also considered the single strand of 1/2 wire/cable between wooden post. Keeping it shorter; maybe 2' poles.

thanks

If you do use the wire, BE SURE you have it clearly marked so its easily seen in the wintertime against the white snow. Quite often, you might get a snowmobilier who didn't know where the boundry lines are and they attempted to cross the wire fence and get hurt. I read too many articles in the newspaper with people getting hurt from fence that wasn't there before. A line of trees is your best bet. My father has done the same thing, he mades sure whatever is wild growing has a buffer of wild growth gowing of 5-10 feet so its easily known where the boundry is. Perhaps you could bush hog a clearing of 2 bush hog width up and down the "fenceline" ? This is much more safter and more effective I think.

 

[Erik_in_Hoyt]

which part of Kansas are you in?
I may be able to find you a supply of cedar poles if you're willing to haul the brush as well - friend of mine is trying to expand the horse pasture.

 

[Soundguy]

Cheap fence to keep vehicles from freely driving in?

3 strand barb wire on t-post.. with wood corner posts and braces, and H style wood braces every 200'

cheap.. easy.. and you can put it in in a day by yourself.. just get the neat axe-handle style wire stretcher and a box of u-staples. get the wire caddy unroller and fence tool ( hammer/plier combo ) that many stores sell.. it's about 15$ for the unroller and fence tool.. and is invaluable..

soundguy

 

[EddieWalker]

Do you want it to be attractive or just a barrier to keep people off your land? Wood will rot, but with a crown around the base of the post, you can get 20 years out of them. Oil field pipe is always a gamble. The pipe is always going to have imperfections inside of it that you cannot see. When you cut it or try to weld it, you will find that it's usually pretty thin and mostly worthless. Like Soundguy said, T posts and wire will be the cheapest way to go.

I have white vinyl at my entrance. I like it. But you said that you don't. There is also green, dark brown and black vinyl fencing that comes in a variety of styles.

I have a job coming up where I'm putting in brick columns every 16ft, with lights on top of them and a 6 foot wood privacy fence between the columns. It's very expensive, but the end results will be what the client wants.

How much do you want to spend? Will you do the work yourself? Can you weld, drill post holes or work with wood? Do you have a wife who has an opinion on what she wants the front of your place to look like?

Eddie

 

[Beavis]

Do you want it to be attractive or just a barrier to keep people off your land? Wood will rot, but with a crown around the base of the post, you can get 20 years out of them. Oil field pipe is always a gamble. The pipe is always going to have imperfections inside of it that you cannot see. When you cut it or try to weld it, you will find that it's usually pretty thin and mostly worthless. Like Soundguy said, T posts and wire will be the cheapest way to go.

I have white vinyl at my entrance. I like it. But you said that you don't. There is also green, dark brown and black vinyl fencing that comes in a variety of styles.

I have a job coming up where I'm putting in brick columns every 16ft, with lights on top of them and a 6 foot wood privacy fence between the columns. It's very expensive, but the end results will be what the client wants.

How much do you want to spend? Will you do the work yourself? Can you weld, drill post holes or work with wood? Do you have a wife who has an opinion on what she wants the front of your place to look like?

Eddie

Eddie,

First, I've always valued your objective input on this board and greatly appreciate the photos that you have shared.

An attractive appearance is a must and I'd like for it to blend in with a 20' gated entry(gated entry hasn't been designed yet). I can do most of the work myself to save cost. I guess maybe I posted too early, with too little information. What would be a fair price for a brown vinyl fencing ?

THANKS

 

[Soundguy]

An attractive appearance is a must and I'd like for it to blend in with a 20' gated entry(gated entry hasn't been designed yet). THANKS

There went cheap and easy.

if it needs to be seamless with some non existant entrance.. i suggest you design them in tandem...

sounduy

 

[Beavis]

There went cheap and easy.

if it needs to be seamless with some non existant entrance.. i suggest you design them in tandem...

sounduy

Unfortunately, I think (I know) you are right. I've done a "image" search on google and yahoo in an attempt to find some ideas, but haven't had much luck.

 

[EddieWalker]

In my opinion, the secret to a really nice looking gate and fence are columns. They are pretty easy to make, it's just a matter of how tall and what to put on them. Figure 4 sacks of concrete for a footing, or $20. Then you'll need 14 cinder blocks at $2 each for a 56 in tall column which works great for a 4ft fence. Another two sacks of mortar for $8. Depending on what type of rock you like to finish off the rock, it can run from $5 a sq ft to $12. Figure $10 for easy math and another 6 sacks of mortar. The rock is real easy to cut with a dry diamond blade. I have a 14 inch blade in my metal chop saw, and have done allot with a 7 inch blade on my circular saw. The chop saw is faster and easier, but either will work. Lights and wiring would be more, it just depends on your taste and how far away you have to run the wiring.

Vinyl fencing runs from about $5 a foot on up to over $10. It really depends on who you buy from and how much you buy. There are volume discounts on fencing, so the more you buy at once, the more you save. Installing it is just physical work and attention to detail. Getting your holes in the right place sounds easy, but it's not. If you have a post hole digger, expect it to get every other one wrong, and having to modify them to line up.

It's satisfying work because you can see the results fairly quickly. You can be creative and personalize it too.

The gate can come later, just have an idea of what you want and how you will hing it. Opening it can also make a big difference in how you build your columns. Sliding gates are totally different then hinged gates. Double hinged gates look awesome, but you have to take into consideration the hardware to make it work.

For a main entrance, I think a gate should be 20 feet wide with 24 being better. It sounds like allot, but once you start driving through it, you'll find that it's just right.

Eddie

 

[Soundguy]

I agree on the gate.. I consider 16' a bare minimum for the average 'auto' to go thru..

soundguy

 

[Beavis]

Thanks guys...........I'll start to do some price shopping and keep you posted as I move forward.

 

[sightsearok]

We recently put up a pipe fence around our lake property. We wanted something attractive and sturdy. We found new secondary pipe which didn't have any of the problems of using used oil field pipe and it turned out great. 2 7/8" posts and two rails. Found the pipe at a place called Merit Enterprises in Tulsa. Horse fence for your corral, cattle fence, structural steel pipe & much more!