Fencing, to dig or to drive post?

   / Fencing, to dig or to drive post?
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Time of the year or season makes a world of difference. Spring after the thaw and rains, it was easy to drill holes with the 3 point PHD.
During the Summer when the ground was baked hard like 2 week old biscuit, the drilling was frustration to the nth power... Add the heat... and it was better to wait.

I learned my lesson on that with the pto post digger I have. During the dry season its like diggig a hole in concrete with a toothbrush!
 
   / Fencing, to dig or to drive post? #12  
Kind of what I'm thinking. I just wanted to see what others have done before I spend several grand on either one. I'd rather drive them in the ground but hydraulic auger sounds like it might be there better choice for me

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The smallest tree transplant auger is going to be the easiest and the least costly way
for you to do this as the resistance to the auger will be minimal due to the augers
tapered design.

That is how my brother set his posts for his garden and other uses with his tractor.
having the tapered auger also breaks the material up faster as it sinks in.

Short of hiring a commercial pasture fencer to do the work with a large tractor that also
pulls the fence as well as drills and sets the post holes with the work deck mounted auger I only
see the tree auger as the better alternative. a wide garden hoe would pull the dirt back into the
holes quickly.

I do not think one of the hand held propane powered post drivers will work very well for you either as they are limited by the first rock they encounter.
 
   / Fencing, to dig or to drive post? #13  
there are a couple folks here on TBN they have threads, going for there DIY post drivers.

google below
post driver site:tractorbynet.com
above will search just tractorbynet website
might try
diy post driver site:tractorbynet.com

--some units operate on a flywheel and cable. and basicly raise a weight up in the air and let the weight come slamming down into top of post
--other units use "air" from an air compressor to raise the weight
--some others use propane or a shot gun shell. i don't remember great detail just remember it used some sort of explosive to hammer post down.

--some attach to a backhoe or excavator like boom. to pick up posts off of trailer, point the end, and hammer the post down into the ground.
--some attach to FEL (front end loader) bucket, or just FEL itself.
--i think i remember 1 attached to 3pt hitch.
--there are a few that ya attach to post top, and push post and the hammer up into the air. and hit a button and away it goes.

=============
--most PHD (post hold diggers) for 3pt hitch = no down force. you can normally buy a "down force kit" for PHD. all it is is a hydrualic cyinder, that helps put some extra weight / force to help it dig down.

--there can be better "tips" to the auger bits for PHD in general that can make or break how well it digs down.

--a Hydraulic motor version of a PHD (post hole digger) will allow you to reverse the auger if you are getting stuck under stuff.
--some folks have built a hydrualic version of the PHD and mounted it to there FEL.

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--for standard metal T posts. i tend to use the backhoe, i stab the T post into the ground were i want it. and since the backhoe bucket can angle and adjust nicely. i can slip top of T post in just the right location of the bucket i have (may differ what bucket you have), and just push the T post into the ground. i did bend a couple T posts out of i don't know 50 or so. a quick chain and pull out and it was removed and another one went back down.

--if you have a "hammer drill" with correct attachment. to drive down "ground rods" that are any were form 8 to 12 feet long down into the ground. they can make quick work of putting T posts into the ground.

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i am not a large fan of 3pt hitch PHD, but they are cheap and work. a down force kit can be a nice option for them. though i would most likely put cash towards a backhoe or mini ex (mini excavator) hydraulic post hold digger. the backhoe style version just makes it so much nicer to pin point were you want a post more so when working in ugly situations with hills and like. and then with a 2nd person / spotter help drilling a nice straight down hole.

if you have a truck bare min, and more so a trailer. you can normally rent a mini ex or a skid steer. with a PHD on it. that would work straight through things nice and fast. if no truck/trailer. you should be able to get it delivered or rent a trailer as well.

a reminder corner posts and like most likely cost a small fortune to deal with. regular line posts can be cheaper.

one last tid bit. if memory serves from my own searchs in the past. for hammering posts down into the ground. you don't want a "sharp needle point" but a dull wide point on them. a sharp point more likely to bust off / crack is what i came to a conclusion of. i want to say the dull point was 1 to 2 inches in diameter maybe a little bit larger.

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and will mirror others. time of year makes huge difference, spring / fall when the ground is wet. other words before crops go into the fields, or after the crops come out of the fields.

if you are having problems with a hole fill with water let it seat over night and come back next day. and retry the hole.

============
one thing i have not tried because i do not have a small enough auger bit. is to drill a pilot hole in a sense. with say a 2 or 3 inch auger bit. and then see if my TLB would be able to push down a 4" to 6" wood post.
 
   / Fencing, to dig or to drive post? #14  
I have a Shaver HD10. I am in Western KY & have heavy clay. It will drive a RR tie or cedar post up to about 10" in the summer in about 3 minutes without sharpening the end.

I have sharpened the ends and it helps as long as you can keep the angle fairly even. If you get the point off center or one side longer the post moves to one side while you're driving it.

I also have a hydraulic digger & each one has it's place. The driver is a lot faster & no tamping.

Once the post is drove there's almost no pulling it back out. Roots don't seem to be a problem but rocks will make the post go off to one side or lean.
 
   / Fencing, to dig or to drive post? #15  
The Shaver Grandslam is a beast! 100,000 lbs of force with 15gpm.

I had a b7500 and used a PHD a but and it would always drill itself in. Now mpwith my 5240, never had that issue. Need to have much more 3pt lift IMO.

If u go hydraulic phd for FEL, u will need an offset otherwise you'll never see ground in front where you're drilling.
 
   / Fencing, to dig or to drive post? #16  
T- Iron post were invented long time ago to solve all the above post driving problems.
 
   / Fencing, to dig or to drive post? #17  
A t post won't hold near the strain a wood post will. We use a combination method. First we punch a hole with a 4" auger full flight depth without cleaning the hole very well and drive a 4"post in to the depth we want. For the corners we run the same auger in up to the motor after thoroughly cleaning the hole out, then drive a square bottom 7-9" post in. Never had an issue with the posts moving at all.
 
   / Fencing, to dig or to drive post? #18  
if the ground is that hard layout the fence line and holes, rent a skid steer with an auger and go to town, come back later a set posts
 
   / Fencing, to dig or to drive post? #19  
If your auger doesn't have a screw on the tip that might be your problem. Mine has one and I'm satisfied with the way it goes into the soil.
I once had an auger without a screw , it attached to my chainsaw, and was a big disappointment. I believe it spent more time spinning ineffectually on hard ground than it did digging.
As for the driver, I've only seen one operate once, over 40 years ago. It was doing a good job of driving sharpened posts in damp ground. I still want one of those. I suspect that both augers and drivers do their best work when the ground is good and moist.
 
   / Fencing, to dig or to drive post? #20  
I built a post driver, and when the soil gest so hard that the posts split or explode from the driver, I use what is normally called a rock point, a (in my case a 2 1/2 square tube with a solid point welded on the end of and pointed, I drive that for a polite hole, the way I made my driver, I can pull the point and then drive the post, (I have not needed it yet, but I also made a point out of 3 pipe 4" diameter which is just a little smaller than what size of post I normally use,

I do have a post hole digger with down presser and rides in a frame to drill straight, but since I built the driver I have not hooked it up to the tractor,

one year the ground was so dry when I pulled the digger up it was smoking from heat generated from the friction of the ground,

the last few years the soil has been very dry, and hard, (some of the posts I drive when I first made it I could not pull back up and out of the soil it was so hard,

all I can say is I wish I have had the post driver 30 years ago,
 
 

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