Ferguson Plow... Opinions

scott_vt · Sep 6, 2007

Farmwithjunk said:
Howdy Scott,

Ouch!$!$!$!$! CAst SHOULD do the job, but steel WILL do the job. Less chance of shattering.

Just try to look at it this way. When I re-did the #66 MF plow I did last winter, I spent nearly $225 per bottom. You aren't anywhere near that.....yet

Bill

Afternoon Boys,
OK heres the latest. Just called Ken down in south central Ky, the number I got from my buddy Al. He says if the central warehouse in Memphis has these shares he can get me steel shares for $119.31 each !

Told me to call back in about an hour, so heres hoping, cuz $119.31 sounds better than $179.66

In the mean time Im just wire wheeling away rust and sandblastin the rest !

scott_vt · Sep 7, 2007

Mornin Boys,
Oh well Ken from Ky couldnt come through in the clutch !

Back to Sweigard Brothers. OK heres my thinkin

the one broken share that I have cracked and broke at the plow bolt hole were the share overhangs the shin by a couple of inches. My thought was that if I welded a small tab onto the shin, that would give more support to the end of the share, that extends just past the end of the shin ? If I did this, maybe I could get away with the cast shares for the limited amount of plowing I will be doing with this plow. I would appreciate any thoughts on this. Thanks !

Pete Milley · Sep 7, 2007

Mornin' Scott:
I may be way off base here, but for $.02 what do you have to lose? I am from New England originally and I know the rock collection well. I learned some things about plow shares, landslides, rippers and the like working as a welder on a ranch in Arizona, where the ground is like concrete littered with volcanic rock. Low hydrogen welding rod build up, like 7018 and hardface can extend the life of your parts dramatically. Especially on the shin and around bolt holes. But only on steel. Of course you already know this.

BobG_in_VA · Sep 8, 2007

Scott: have you actually determined that you have a 10-8? If I remember correctly the front and rear points are actually a different part #. Probably the lenght of the share itself (lower cutting edge). Double check with Sweigart w/which one you want to make sure you get it. BobG in VA

scott_vt · Sep 10, 2007

BobG_in_VA said:
Scott: have you actually determined that you have a 10-8? If I remember correctly the front and rear points are actually a different part #. Probably the lenght of the share itself (lower cutting edge). Double check with Sweigart w/which one you want to make sure you get it. BobG in VA

Mornin Bob,
Yes actually I have ressurected the ID plate thats riveted to the adjustable arm supports. It clearly reads Model 10-8 along with the serial #. Scott from Sweigard Brothers asked fot the numbers off the back of the moldboard also so they are shipped allready and on there way, so we shall see shortly !

BTW, obviously the entire plow assembly can be positioned along the drawbar. The whole plow I would think wants to be closer to the right rear tire, so when I go to make my second pass the furrow spacing will be correct in relation to rear tire to the moldboard closest to that tire ? Thanks for any thoughts on this !

BobG_in_VA · Sep 10, 2007

scott_vt said:
Mornin Bob,
Yes actually I have ressurected the ID plate thats riveted to the adjustable arm supports. It clearly reads Model 10-8 along with the serial #. Scott from Sweigard Brothers asked fot the numbers off the back of the moldboard also so they are shipped allready and on there way, so we shall see shortly !

BTW, obviously the entire plow assembly can be positioned along the drawbar. The whole plow I would think wants to be closer to the right rear tire, so when I go to make my second pass the furrow spacing will be correct in relation to rear tire to the moldboard closest to that tire ? Thanks for any thoughts on this !

I'm doing this from memory now, but if I remember correctly, the furrow side drawbar should be about 7 1/2 inches out from the plow frame for a "standard" set-up....I had to make an adjustment when I hooked it up to my 230 Farmall (2pt converted to 3pt), as the rear right (36" rim) was already in as far as it would adjust and it was still a tad over what the 10-8 could cut from the tractor centerline...I think I moved it to about 5 inches.
Good luck and send pics...PS sorry I keep forgetting to take my camera with me to the farm to get some pics of the 10-8. bobg in Va

scott_vt · Sep 11, 2007

Afternoon Guys,
My new plow shares came in yesterday, now I know how they are supposed to look !

Im not entirely happy with the fit between the shares and the shin ! Im going to have to do a little grinding on the back side of the shares to allow them to mate up a bit better with the contour of the shins. I didnt get a warm cozy feelin when I pull the directions out of the box and they tell you to make some washers out of roofing paper to sandwich inbetween the share and the shin !

So the first two pictures are different angles of the share. The third pic is the adjustable arm frame that Im in the process of repairing. Apparently the lower crossmember was torch cut and rewelded higher on the frame to accomodate some barn yard mechanics attempt of relocating the coulter frame !

Im not sure about this cast share, this may turn into a lawn ornament yet !

scott_vt · Sep 12, 2007

Mornin Guys,
Well I got the adjustable arm bracket fixed and lookin like new !

Im also in the process of cleaning up the moldboards for paint, they seem to be in pretty good shape ! As soon as I get the plow beams prepped for paint it will be time to load up the HVLP gun and shoot some red !

Then all I will really have to fix is the tail wheel assembly. We are makin some progress !

Farmwithjunk · Sep 12, 2007

scott_vt said:
Afternoon Guys,
My new plow shares came in yesterday, now I know how they are supposed to look ! Im not entirely happy with the fit between the shares and the shin ! Im going to have to do a little grinding on the back side of the shares to allow them to mate up a bit better with the contour of the shins. I didnt get a warm cozy feelin when I pull the directions out of the box and they tell you to make some washers out of roofing paper to sandwich inbetween the share and the shin ! So the first two pictures are different angles of the share. The third pic is the adjustable arm frame that Im in the process of repairing. Apparently the lower crossmember was torch cut and rewelded higher on the frame to accomodate some barn yard mechanics attempt of relocating the coulter frame !

Im not sure about this cast share, this may turn into a lawn ornament yet !

Howdy Scotty!

Movin' right along there! Good lookin' job so far. You talk about not getting a warm fuzzy feeling....? You aughtta read the parts manuals to an old Ferguson plow. Those shims were originally ASBESTOS. The parts manual for my #66 MF plow gives part#'s for several shims, all listed as asbestos. Needless to say, they're obsolete and no longer available through AGCO.

Bill

GreenMtns · Sep 15, 2007

Hi Scotty

The arm looks real good. At least they didn't cut the cross brace shorter to try to make it fit between the uprights. I'll have to come down and see it when you move it up to VT.

Al