Field clearing

[Rockbadchild]

Ive been clearing overgrown land its mostly brush and ***** willow …. while ripping them lots of roots are staying behind, I am afraid these roots will cause me some issue while plowing. Should I be worried? I am considering buying a Subsoiler to remove these roots prior to start plowing but considering the $2000 price tag I am wondering if this is the best option ? should I consider a Skeleton grappler/ roots grappler or some other variation instead at $3000 … to be clear I will buy a Skeleton grappler eventually to be moving brush and other material but for now I have to choose only one …. the ground is clay and there isn't any rocks... I have a 60hp 4x4 subcompact tractor so the buckets is not the strongest, I am also skeptical putting it through this with a front loader attachment to remove roots and small stumps.

 

[jeff9366]

A moldboard plow cannot remove stumps but a plow IN GOOD CONDITION behind a moderate weight compact tractor should not be troubled by tree roots to 1" diameter which the plow will cut and invert to the surface.

To be safe, either engage Draft Control if your tractor has Draft Control or use a plow with shear bolt or "trip" protection.

How many acres comprise this field?

VIDEO:

The plow operator in this video is not very experienced.



A Bucket Spade should allow you to excavate small stumps to about 3" in diameter.

Front-End Loader - BUCKET SPADE TODAY // FEL BUCKET ATTACHMENT

I am a fan of Bucket Solutions' clamp-on Bucket Spade. It is

www.tractorbynet.com

 

[workinonit]

I use a chisel plow with multiple passes each way. Once the roots and stumps are up about the only way I have found to get them up is by hand. I would suspect a turn plow would roll them out but you still have the issue of getting them up. I just did this on a 1 acre plot that I cleared for my secondary garden.

 

[Egon]

If you have enough tractor pulling the right sized plough you will cut up and turn most of roots. Subsequent cultivation should allow you to collect most of them. Cultivator with spikes and a rotary rake.

In the video the tractor was too small or the plough was too big. For that type of ploughing the wrong mouldboards were also being used. It was also not a very good plow.

 

[Rockbadchild]

A moldboard plow cannot remove stumps but a plow IN GOOD CONDITION behind a moderate weight compact tractor should not be troubled by tree roots to 1" diameter which the plow will cut and invert to the surface.

To be safe, either engage Draft Control if your tractor has Draft Control or use a plow with shear bolt or "trip" protection.

How many acres comprise this field?

VIDEO:

The plow operator in this video is not very experienced.



A Bucket Spade should allow you to excavate small stumps to about 3" in diameter.

Front-End Loader - BUCKET SPADE TODAY // FEL BUCKET ATTACHMENT

I am a fan of Bucket Solutions' clamp-on Bucket Spade. It is

www.tractorbynet.com

If you make your LOCATION a permanent part of your T-B-N PROFILE you will receive replies better tailored to your conditions.

right now I am working on a 21 acre field but most of it won't cause me problems its in the gully and a few low spots where there is bigger willow trees and since its softer ground not sure if I will be able to plow through but after that's I will have a other 20 acre to do and its pretty grown out with mostly brush and willows in low spots … see pictures below same patch, picture 2 have most rip out but that's what I am dealing with

 

[Rockbadchild]

A moldboard plow cannot remove stumps but a plow IN GOOD CONDITION behind a moderate weight compact tractor should not be troubled by tree roots to 1" diameter which the plow will cut and invert to the surface.

To be safe, either engage Draft Control if your tractor has Draft Control or use a plow with shear bolt or "trip" protection.

How many acres comprise this field?

VIDEO:

The plow operator in this video is not very experienced.



A Bucket Spade should allow you to excavate small stumps to about 3" in diameter.

Front-End Loader - BUCKET SPADE TODAY // FEL BUCKET ATTACHMENT

I am a fan of Bucket Solutions' clamp-on Bucket Spade. It is

www.tractorbynet.com

If you make your LOCATION a permanent part of your T-B-N PROFILE you will receive replies better tailored to your conditions.

it sound like the subsoiler would be the way to go

 

[Rockbadchild]

I use a chisel plow with multiple passes each way. Once the roots and stumps are up about the only way I have found to get them up is by hand. I would suspect a turn plow would roll them out but you still have the issue of getting them up. I just did this on a 1 acre plot that I cleared for my secondary garden.

Chisel plow ? meaning a cultivator ? … I have a cultivator but ive ben told the spikes are not strong enouph to remove roots from the ground.

 

[jeff9366]

it sound like the subsoiler would be the way to go

No. A plow is designed for cutting through roots of all types. Turned up, roots will die in the sun.

 

[Rockbadchild]

No. A plow is designed for cutting through roots of all types. Turned up, roots will die in the sun.

I understand that... what I am saying is to go through with the subsoiler before turning the soil over so the roots don't jam the plow... some of these roots have 4 inch diameter the plow wont cut that ? especially if the ground is a little soft

 

[spruce Deere]

After clearing/leveling old spruce tree fields with 1150 case dozer, I use a chistle plow to break up the ground and work up remaining roots.

Chisle plowing works good for that, even better if you work the field one direction then work it again 'against' the previous direction. Say you chistle plowed the field north/south direction then work it a second time east/west direction....

A turn plow will work, the roots shouldn't bother it to much. But a turn plow does not work the soil like a chistle plow and other implements such as a disk, cultivator and or harrow will be needed

 

[jeff9366]

You never want to invert soil so subsoil is turned up.

Therefore compact tractor plows come in 12", 14" and 16" widths, which turn soil to a depth of 6", 7" and 8".

The larger roots likely lie deeper and can be ignored. If the trees associated with the larger roots are dead, the larger roots will decay over time. I apply an herbicide, usually Cross Bow (2-4d + Triclopyr), to fresh tree stumps to insure rapid death of stump and roots. Others avoid herbicides.

A subsoiler catching a deep 4" diameter root will stop a compact tractor. To be safe, engage Draft Control if your tractor has Draft Control or use a subsoiler with shear bolt or "trip" protection, the same as if plowing.

 

[BackRoad]

It looks like 80 to 90% of what you have in your pictures could be easily removed with a root style grapple.

It's fairly easy to dig out clump brush and smaller trees up to 6 to 8 inches with that style grapple on my 60hp MX6000, which might be a similar sized tractor as yours.

Typically clump brush have spreading roots, rather than deep tap roots, so easier to pull out enmass.

Get the grapple down about 4 inches under the surface and just move forward in low gear against the clump to pop it out. If they are large clumps, you may need to start higher up to push them to loosen the roots...but they generally pop out once you get them loosened slightly.

For the smaller trees, you can use the weight of the tractor (your MF looks to be a solid, mid-sized utility tractor - maybe 4000# (+) if loaded) to push against the trees at about 6' up...

Once the tree is leaning, use the weight of the tractor to ride the tree down, leveraging out the roots. Occasionally you may need to dig/pry at the roots to finish getting a tree out, but they are generally loose at that point and not too difficult.

Only caveate is to be aware of the root mass when you are riding it down. I occasionally find Maples may have a fair sized mass that magically appears under your tractor...since the tractor underbelly can be exposed.

Use the weight of the tractor and tree to your advantage, rather than trying to just apply brute force prying at the roots with the grapple.

One last suggestion, it's significantly easier to use the full tree as leverage rather than cut down the tree, and then try to pry the stump/root out!

One of your photos looks like you are using a tow strap and maybe chain for pulling brush.

My experience is a grapple combined with the tractor weight to push and leverage against the target is ALOT faster than getting off and on the tractor using a chain to pull out brush and trees...at least on the 15 acres I've cleared.

I had one small area that I had to do that way...and even with my wife driving the tractor and me just dedicated to chaining...it wore me out quick!

 

[Rockbadchild]

It looks like 80 to 90% of what you have in your pictures could be easily removed with a root style grapple.

It's fairly easy to dig out clump brush and smaller trees up to 6 to 8 inches with that style grapple on my 60hp MX6000, which might be a similar sized tractor as yours.

Typically clump brush have spreading roots, rather than deep tap roots, so easier to pull out enmass.

Get the grapple down about 4 inches under the surface and just move forward in low gear against the clump to pop it out. If they are large clumps, you may need to start higher up to push them to loosen the roots...but they generally pop out once you get them loosened slightly.

For the smaller trees, you can use the weight of the tractor (your MF looks to be a solid, mid-sized utility tractor - maybe 4000# (+) if loaded) to push against the trees at about 6' up...

Once the tree is leaning, use the weight of the tractor to ride the tree down, leveraging out the roots. Occasionally you may need to dig/pry at the roots to finish getting a tree out, but they are generally loose at that point and not too difficult.

Only caveate is to be aware of the root mass when you are riding it down. I occasionally find Maples may have a fair sized mass that magically appears under your tractor...since the tractor underbelly can be exposed.

Use the weight of the tractor and tree to your advantage, rather than trying to just apply brute force prying at the roots with the grapple.

One last suggestion, it's significantly easier to use the full tree as leverage rather than cut down the tree, and then try to pry the stump/root out!

One of your photos looks like you are using a tow strap and maybe chain for pulling brush.

My experience is a grapple combined with the tractor weight to push and leverage against the target is ALOT faster than getting off and on the tractor using a chain to pull out brush and trees...at least on the 15 acres I've cleared.

I had one small area that I had to do that way...and even with my wife driving the tractor and me just dedicated to chaining...it wore me out quick!

thanks, for the tips and yes I have a 60Hp, the weight is about that as well and that's what I have been doing pulling on them with a tow strap and choker and yeah its not fun … can you share what type of grappler you have and what type you would advise me to buy? I am interested in the rock grappler since I would be able to use it for a lots of different application but I know it wont be as effective as a roots grappler or brush grappler.

 

[BackRoad]

There's many grapples out there...and lots of opinions on every grapple ever made!

I've got an Everything Attachments 60" Wicked Root Grapple...my favorite and most produtive tool on the tractor, and would buy it again without hesitation.

You'll find many feel that same way about their own personal favorites.

Some designs seem to be efficient for logging, others like their double lid closures.

I like the overall usefulness of the EA, its root digging and rake capabilities, strength of materials, lightness, and build quality...unfortunately, it's very popular and has a wait list for delivery.

Search on TBN...lots of good threads with strong opinions on which grapple might be beneficial for your needs.

 

[leonz]

A single shank subsoiler is all your mule is going to be able to handle.

One of the titan subsoilers from the dealer in Ontario will work as long as you have traction and loaded tires.

if you remove the toe/shank you should have no issues as all your doing is breaking and bringing up roots anyway

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

Turned up, roots will die in the sun.
+ + + +
If your bush is anything like the bush here... It is not going to hurt to paint all the cut ends of bush stumps and root ends you can with Round Up, right from the bottle, even if you eventually turn most of them under..
Good luck...

 

[JethroB]

You never want to invert soil so subsoil is turned up.

Therefore compact tractor plows come in 12", 14" and 16" widths, which turn soil to a depth of 6", 7" and 8".

The larger roots likely lie deeper and can be ignored. If the trees associated with the larger roots are dead, the larger roots will decay over time. I apply an herbicide, usually Cross Bow (2-4d + Triclopyr), to fresh tree stumps to insure rapid death of stump and roots. Others avoid herbicides.

A subsoiler catching a deep 4" diameter root will stop a compact tractor. To be safe, engage Draft Control if your tractor has Draft Control or use a subsoiler with shear bolt or "trip" protection, the same as if plowing.

I don’t understand how Draft Control could help when encountering a large root or other immovable object. How would it react fast enough to prevent shearing the bolt, tripping the implement, or stopping the tractor?
Thanks

 

[jeff9366]

I don’t understand how Draft Control could help when encountering a large root or other immovable object. How would it react fast enough to prevent shearing the bolt, tripping the implement, or stopping the tractor?
Thanks

When implement encounters an obstacle, pressure is applied to the top link. A sensor then triggers hydraulic system to raise the implement instantly. Sensitivity of the lift is adjustable.

Draft Control was one component of the Three Point Hitch developed and patented by Harry Ferguson in Ireland and England during post WW1 years. Then, everyone plowed and tractors regularly toppled over backwards. Few or none had ROPS and there were regular fatalities.

Ferguson licensed his patented Three Point Hitch to Henry Ford in 1939 and Draft Control has protected operators in USA ever since, WHEN ENGAGED.

 

[JethroB]

I understand draft control. I asked as the draft control I’m familiar with doesn’t respond that quickly. I’m more likely to be hung up & stopped or spinning tires by a root or stump before it responds. A subsoiler is too much of a fishhook.