fill tires or not?

[SPYDERLK]

Self defeating... Foam would be too light... By definition...

I like the idea of the skidsteer tires that never need air...

Go old school with a GIANT metal rim and just 3" of rubber on the outside (Like the old tractors with metal wheels & no tires). Add weight to the rims when needed...

Hmmm....

David

Tire compliance is a traction issue.
larry

 

[JimmytheSaint]

If adding fluid adds 700- 1000 lbs to your tires, how does one remove them to change the tranny fluid?

 

[meburdick]

That weight total would be for BOTH tires, so you're looking at 350-500 pounds per tire. If you need to remove the tire, you're going to want to a) be working on a solid, level area, b) be very careful, and c) have help to move the tire away from the tractor once it's removed.

Putting loaded tires back on seems to be made a little easier by letting the tractor down slightly on the jack, getting the tire lined up so that one "upper" lug hole is aligned, putting a bolt through, and lifting the rear of the tractor back up. Apparently, this helps to line everything back up.

 

[greg_g]

If adding fluid adds 700- 1000 lbs to your tires, how does one remove them to change the tranny fluid?

Haven't run across a tractor that requires tire removal for fluid change, but that's beside the point.
1. loosen lugs
2. jack up only far enough to take tractor weight off tire
3a. remove lug nuts if so equipped and wiggle rim off hub
3b. remove log bolts if so equipped, and roll tire away from tractor
4. ensure tire remains vertical while off tractor, block if necessary.
5. roll tire back into place for reinstallation
6. jack tractor up or down as required to line up studs or bolt holes
7a. if studs, wiggle rim to get top stud through top bolt hole
7b. if lug bolts, align top rim hole with top hub hole
8. use this stud/lug to pull tire toward hub
Gravity will assist aligning the remaining holes.

//greg//

 

[k0ua]

Haven't run across a tractor that requires tire removal for fluid change, but that's beside the point.
1. loosen lugs
2. jack up only far enough to take tractor weight off tire
3a. remove lug nuts if so equipped and wiggle rim off hub
3b. remove log bolts if so equipped, and roll tire away from tractor
4. ensure tire remains vertical while off tractor, block if necessary.
5. roll tire back into place for reinstallation
6. jack tractor up or down as required to line up studs or bolt holes
7a. if studs, wiggle rim to get top stud through top bolt hole
7b. if lug bolts, align top rim hole with top hub hole
8. use this stud/lug to pull tire toward hub
Gravity will assist aligning the remaining holes.

//greg//





//greg//

The one time I have done that on a full sized utility tractor with filled tire. I was too stupid to do the above. Brute force and ignorance will prevail.. I was about 38 at the time.. I have "smarter ways" now. This sounds like a good one:thumbsup:

James K0UA

 

[SPYDERLK]

If adding fluid adds 700- 1000 lbs to your tires, how does one remove them to change the tranny fluid?

I just drain mine out on the ground when I need to. And refill with the hose after Im finished.
larry

 

[lilranch2001]

sorry to bother you guys with another question but... everyone on here says to fill the back tires for ballast and stablition. so i called the dealer and was going to have him fill my tires before i picked up my 3032 next week. he says deere doesn't recommend filling them because of the damage to the rims. will this scew up my warranty if i fill them somwhere else?

I refuse to believe JD makes such a recommondation.
It sounds like either an old time salesman who is thinking about caclum cloride or a person who doesnt have a clue about modern tire liquid weights.

Fill them unless you plan on just letting that tractor sit in a barn looking pretty or you want to end up with the tractor on top of you.

 

[msmud]

Perhaps the JD salesman recommended against filling the tires just as EVERY tractor tire manufacturer I have checked (Goodyear, Michelin, Firestone) recommends against filling the tires. Indeed multiple state ag extension offices make the same point: For best traction, ride, balance, and the least soil compaction and tire sidewall stiffness, balance the tractor front to back with the axle loads it will carry, figure out the proper wt percentage of the front and rear axles for the drive type (4WD, 2WD), add weights to bring each axle into balance, and let the air out of the tires to the minimum necessary to support the load at the speed you will be operating. This is the advice of the experts. Just because people have been filling their tires since WWI doesn't make it the best way.

 

[sunnyside360]

Actually, Goodyear did have an online procedure and liquid fill guide until they sold their tractor tire business to Titan. Titan now lists the procedure and fill guide on their web site http://titan-intl.com/files/Agriculture/Ag_DatabookWeb.pdf

Firestone also provides online info for hydro inflation of their tires http://www.firestoneag.com/webres/File/Tire-Info/TireInfo-Hydroinflation.pdf

Michelin also http://www.michelinag.com/Learning-and-sharing/Ballasting-tires

 

[greg_g]

Whereas I disagree with the recommendation to use CaCl, here's a quote right out of my 2011 owner manual:
"Using Liquid Weight in Tires

c CAUTION: Avoid injury! Installing liquid ballast requires special equipment and training. Injury may occur from exploding tire. Have the job done by your John Deere dealer or a tire service store.

IMPORTANT: Avoid damage! Cover rim completely with solution to avoid corrosion, but never more than 90 percent full. More solution would leave too little air space to absorb shocks. Damage to tire could occur.

NOTE: Use of alcohol as ballast is not recommended. Calcium chloride solution is heavier and more economical.

A solution of water and calcium chloride provides safe economical ballast, and will prevent freezing. If used properly, it will not damage tires, tubes, or rims.

A mixture of 0.4 kg of calcium chloride per liter of water (3.5 lb/gal), will not freeze solid above -45 C (-50 F).

Fill tubeless tires at least to valve stem level (minimum 75% full). Less solution would expose part of rim, possibly causing corrosion.

Tube-type tires may be filled to any level below 90%. "

Since RimGuard weighs the same per gallon as the recommended CaCl ratio, I went with RimGuard.

//greg//