*FINALLY* Going to Tazewell

[ponytug]

Yes, you can hit a nit picky cop at anytime. I'm dealing with a building inspector at the moment that has no common sense at the moment and every single deviation from plan is a work stop order. Even his supervisor was complaining to us about him.

That said, the tie down logic is pretty straightforward. Don't use old, frayed, or unlabeled tie downs. Chains will keep you from being dinged on fraying, but make sure they are trucking grade, with label ("grade 70", etc.) if you are going to rely on the weight rating. However, you aren't a professional, and this is, in the grand scheme of things, a light load.

The devil is in the details. There is a nice article here.

The actual regs are in the link below, with details at the bottom. Technically, a 425 doesn't meet the weight requirement for a heavy vehicle that requires the four direct and one indirect tie down, but...nit picky is always out there.
Cargo securement rules

In rereading this, I was reminded of one thing- I would highly recommend chocks for the tractor- you don't want to rely on a parking brake. I'm sure MossRoad's method works really well, but weird things happen on long hauls, and I would hate to see you bend or damage a parking brake on a new tractor.

CONGRATULATIONS! I'm sure that you are going to have a great time with your new 425. I can't imagine running our ranch without our PT. IT has paid for itself many, many times over.

All the best,

Peter

P.S. I have always liked Ken's chain tie downs- not because I trailer my PT, but because of the number of times that I do fasten things to the tractor, pulling, anchoring, etc.

 

[woodlandfarms]

I will third the Tie Down welded to the body of the tractor. Ken did that for me when I got the 1850 and it comes in super handy, from loading and moving to being good tie off points.

 

[MossRoad]

Got any pictures of the tie-down hooks welded to the machine? I'd like to see them.

 

[MossRoad]

Hey, if you're getting pallet forks, see if you can put one skid in front, then pickup up the second skid and back onto the trailer with the skid on the forks, then set it down and secure everything. That way when you get home, you can just undo the straps and chains and drive the thing off yourself and not have to unload anything manually off the skid.

Also, don't be worried about paint scuffing on the trip home. I was all upset at paint scuffed by shipping straps when I picked mine up at the freight terminal, and PT sent me some touch up paint, etc.... but in the big picture and 16 years later.... it was stupid to get worked up about scuffed paint on a machine that is comparable to a sledge hammer in construction. Its a tool. Its gonna get scuffed. I have scuffed, scratched and rubbed my machine every which way(but never dented it). Just get a spray can of Deere green and a can of black and touch it up once in a while if it suits you.

 

[SpringHollow]

OK, I will be the one to say it. The chain hooks come in handy too when you get the tractor stuck.




Ken

 

[SpringHollow]

Here is a better view:



I had them angle them to work better for tying down to the trailer.

Ken

 

[SpringHollow]

And a better front view:



I did not recognize the tractor at first since it is moderately clean. Who knew it was red instead of clay colored!!!

Ken

 

[MossRoad]

OK, I will be the one to say it. The chain hooks come in handy too when you get the tractor stuck.

View attachment 505691
View attachment 505690

Ken

HA! The truth comes out! :laughing:

 

[MossRoad]

Don't forget to get yourself a spinner knob for the steering wheel when you get home. Tractor Supply sometimes has John Deere green knobs that match pretty well. About $10 and worth every penny.

 

[MossRoad]

And I got this tow hook from TSC, as well. Mounted it on the front shelf 14 years ago. Makes tie-down easy for me. I may move it to one side and add a second one, as this is a single point of failure, but, again, this is only a 1500 pound load secured front and rear.