Fire Water Pump Hose... NPT and Industrial Pipe Thread the same? and NST?

[tallyho8]

If you're looking for a fitting like this one I will give it to you if you pay the $9 priority mail shipping. I paid about $20 for it last year but we wound up changing the valve to a different size and never used it. I think it is a 2 1/2" NST(F) x 1 1/2" NST(M) Reducer but I don't remember for sure and I don't know how to tell what kind of thread it is.

 

[atgreene]

Everyone has made some good points here. Here's a couple thoughts of mine fwiw. Look for a pressure pump. You are going to need pressure, not volume for a 1 1/2" line. 71 psi is not much pressure. A typical mud pump/sump/trash pump is made to move volumes, not make pressure. W/o pressure you have no reach or may have kinked hose that won't straighten. I've been involved with a few fire truck builds using trash pumps, we were never happy with them.

As for fittings and hose, here's an option:Transfer Pumps, Petroleum Equipment, Fuel Meters, Gas Nozzles + More | John M Ellsworth Co Inc

And http://www.jmesales.com/category/1906/1/Fire-Hose.aspx

Good luck.

 

[zeuspaul]

The forestry hose description indicated you couldn't close the nozzle which may be inconvenient. I don't think I'll be dragging the hose much although it's definately an issue. I was dragging 300 ft of 3/4 hose around for awhile watering trees and that wasn't fun! Maybe I could run a little 1.5 inch PVC underground to where I want the firehose. Something like a mini fire hydrant system.

I've got 135 psi to the house and if I recall correctly I get about 15 gpm from that hose. I'll set up a couple of those at different locations. But I want a back up system with more fire power and hopefully better reach.

Thanks for all the help. I am starting to get a better handle on this.

Zeuspaul

 

[charlz]

I have risers like that in a couple areas for irrigation. I would imagine that the pressure loss of PVC or black pipe is much less than fire hose. If your pump is 2" though I would look at using the same size for any main line, this way you are keeping maximum pressure to the point where you attach the hose.


I have one question for the group though... what happens with these gas pumps when you close the nozzle? Is it bad for them to run 'dead head' for very long? My system is an electric pump with tank and pressure switch but obviously electric is not the choice in a fire fighting situation.

 

[Hotwheels]

The forestry hose description indicated you couldn't close the nozzle which may be inconvenient. I don't think I'll be dragging the hose much although it's definately an issue. I was dragging 300 ft of 3/4 hose around for awhile watering trees and that wasn't fun! Maybe I could run a little 1.5 inch PVC underground to where I want the firehose. Something like a mini fire hydrant system.

I've got 135 psi to the house and if I recall correctly I get about 15 gpm from that hose. I'll set up a couple of those at different locations. But I want a back up system with more fire power and hopefully better reach.

Thanks for all the help. I am starting to get a better handle on this.

Zeuspaul

I have the Honda WH20 for similar purposes as you, although it is intended to be my backup pump to use for a perimeter sprinkler system. My main pump will be something like a Davey fire pump that has more pressure and volume. I am installing a water tank that will be connected to the fire pump that I can use to spray gel on my house and foam on any spot fires.

Anyway, on the outake of the WH20 I have a 2"f to 1 1/2" f connector and then a male 1 1/2" to male 1 1/2 " threaded adapter. My 1 1/2" forestry hose connects directly to that adapter. However, I found that as others have said, that is a heavy hose when there is water in it. So I reduce that to a 1" forestry hose that is more manageable for me.

Dixon and Kochek make fittings for adapting various sizes.

If a picture would help I can try to take one.

 

[zeuspaul]

Taking a second look at the forestry hoses...there were two. One indicated for open hose applications only. However even that hose is rated above the pump pressure. The spec 187 forestry hose at Darley.com is tested at 250 psi with some other higher ratings. I would think closing the nozzle ( if it can be done without damaging the pump) with this hose wouldn't be a problem.

Zeuspaul

 

[atgreene]

It would be best to not close the nozzle for more than 30 seconds or so when the pump is at full pressure. The pump will build heat VERY fast and quickly boil the water, destroying the seals and impellers.

Just a thought, you may want to look at a relief valve set at just slightly more than what you are pumping at. If you pipe the discharge from the relief back into the tank, when you close the nozzle it will dump water back into the tank. That will allow you to shut off the nozzle and not have to run back to the pump immediately. We do this on fire apparatus to prevent damage to the pumps. An easier way would be to put a dump valve to recirculate back to the tank and just crack the valve. You may loose some pressure, but it would keep water moving.

Good luck.

 

[tommu56]

try McMaster-Carr

page 229


1 1/2" NH/NST x 2" NPT 6523T28 44.38


tommu

 

[tommu56]

deleted double entry
tommu

 

[schmism]

will put out between 30-150 GPM on pressures as low as 50PSI on 1.5" NST

a 1.5" hose running that type of nozzel wide open ~100gpm at 100psi is a 2 man job. You can run it single man but you have to kneel on the ground with the hose between your legs in order not to have it push you around.

the hose on the far right is running about 80 psi at about 20gpm