Firewood processor build thread

[CDN Farm Boy]

Delayed double post removed

 

[mikefromnh]

I was thinking T's in the supply and return with gate valves on the lines going to and from the 10 gallon tank. So that you could adjust the flow to keep the levels in the tank even. Each tank would have it's own breather. Might be more trouble then it's worth.

 

[ajmaxham]

THE GOOD

before/after
View attachment 407503View attachment 407504

PA reduced the hose to 3/4", not really suction hose. It's now 1 1/2" Parker suction hose. Hydraulic shop says they would have used 1" return, but it should work.

I vote for the new larger hydraulic tank.

I would also change the return to 1'' as the Hydraulic Shop said. The smaller return line could add to the friction -- (more heat for the hydraulic oil and slower cycle time).

 

[aczlan]

hmmmm... interesting idea. I really don't know if that could be done. I have two 55 gallon barrels mounted on the back of my box blade, I use it as a zamboni in the winter for my rink. The two tanks are joined together with 1.5" pipe and go to the water bar on the bottom. When you attach a garden hose to one tank, the water level in that tank will stay much higher than the water level in the other tank. Of course, I'm attaching the hose to the air vent of the first barrel, not sure if the air vent on the 10 gallon tank (which would be the first tank) would make any difference.

If you have both tanks vented (I would vent the first into the 2nd, then the 2nd to air) and enough flow through the equalizing hose (might need 1.5"), 2 tanks can work quite well.

Aaron Z

 

[kiotiken]

THE GOOD

before/after
View attachment 407503View attachment 407504



I vote for the new larger hydraulic tank.

I would also change the return to 1'' as the Hydraulic Shop said. The smaller return line could add to the friction -- (more heat for the hydraulic oil and slower cycle time).

I agree with changing the lines to 1", and it may eventually happen, but for now, I'm going to go with more oil and see what happens. I just don't want to buy all new fittings throwing yet more money out the window for the old fittings. If more oil doesn't fix it and I'm forced to add a rad/fan, the lines will be changed as well.

If you have both tanks vented (I would vent the first into the 2nd, then the 2nd to air) and enough flow through the equalizing hose (might need 1.5"), 2 tanks can work quite well.

Aaron Z

So, I'm going back on buying the tank (so unlike me to flip flop :laughing. I was looking at the price of the 25 gallon tank when I figured I'd only save $100, it's more like $200 for the 37 gallon tank. The big reason though is to be able to use both tanks as mikefromnh suggested. From the 2" supply port on the 10 gallon tank, I'll move up to a 3" solid pipe and make a 3" supply port on my custom tank. My design (that saves about $200) also includes a 5" clean out port and internal tank filter and magnetic drain port, which is not part of the tank I'd be buying. I'm going back and forth on putting the clean out port and internal filter in, so I may end up saving a little more.

To answer the inevitable question about how I save $200 building a tank that only costs $279 to build, here's what that tank really costs since I'm in Canada.

$279 US
$65 US delivery to UPS store in NY
23% exchange rate
13% sales tax at the boarder
My time and gas to drive to NY to get it.
Any duties I might have to pay.

 

[aczlan]

So, I'm going back on buying the tank (so unlike me to flip flop :laughing. I was looking at the price of the 25 gallon tank when I figured I'd only save $100, it's more like $200 for the 37 gallon tank. The big reason though is to be able to use both tanks as mikefromnh suggested. From the 2" supply port on the 10 gallon tank, I'll move up to a 3" solid pipe and make a 3" supply port on my custom tank. My design (that saves about $200) also includes a 5" clean out port and internal tank filter and magnetic drain port, which is not part of the tank I'd be buying. I'm going back and forth on putting the clean out port and internal filter in, so I may end up saving a little more.

Might want to use a union (or something) between the tanks if you can find one so that you can separate them down the road if needed?
What do you mean by internal tank filter? Do you mean a filter attached to the return line inside the tank, or a suction strainer?
On the other hand, if you are building the tank yourself, why not make one tank that is big enough to not need the existing one?

To answer the inevitable question about how I save $200 building a tank that only costs $279 to build, here's what that tank really costs since I'm in Canada.
$279 US
$65 US delivery to UPS store in NY
23% exchange rate
13% sales tax at the boarder
My time and gas to drive to NY to get it.
Any duties I might have to pay.

Aren't borders great?

Aaron Z

 

[kiotiken]

Might want to use a union (or something) between the tanks if you can find one so that you can separate them down the road if needed?
What do you mean by internal tank filter? Do you mean a filter attached to the return line inside the tank, or a suction strainer?
On the other hand, if you are building the tank yourself, why not make one tank that is big enough to not need the existing one?


Aren't borders great?

Aaron Z

Well, you can see from the picture, I don't have enough room to built a large tank in the current space without running into the pump. My new tank will hang on the side of the frame so I'll either just remove the existing tank and have a space there, or keep it in place.

Yes, I'm talking about a suction strainer. I would have a union to disconnect the tanks. This will also make it easier to install them in the first place, I won't have to spin on my new tank, getting it just right to be able to bolt in into place.

 

[aczlan]

What if you made it wider (so its as wide as your space) and either made it L shaped so it sticks out the left end of the splitter, or removed the crossbars the tank is sitting on and installed a taller tank?

L shaped tank:

Larger square tank:


It wont take a lot more metal, but from what I have seen, a 3" union isn't cheap, so it might be worth the extra to build a larger tank.

Aaron Z

 

[mikefromnh]

How about cut the ten gallon tank in half and add some metal in between to make it bigger?

 

[kiotiken]

What if you made it wider (so its as wide as your space) and either made it L shaped so it sticks out the left end of the splitter, or removed the crossbars the tank is sitting on and installed a taller tank?

L shaped tank:
View attachment 417819
Larger square tank:
View attachment 417818

It wont take a lot more metal, but from what I have seen, a 3" union isn't cheap, so it might be worth the extra to build a larger tank.

Aaron Z

Well, it would be harder to build, but I'll look at it. What got me thinking about just building it myself was looking at the construction of the tank from the Surplus center and seeing how simple it is to build. Bend one piece into a U one way, another piece in a slightly smaller U the other way, add a baffle and some ports and you're done.

I have 2 - 1.5" unions on my zamboni and they weren't too bad, I've never look for or priced a 3" union. I'm going to start by searching out all the parts, most of which I've already found, and go from there. If the union is really expensive, I may have to rethink it.

From my drawings, a 37 gallon tank (copying the one from the Surplus Center) will take a full sheet of metal. 13 gauge cold rolled sheets are $156 here (before I have them apply my usual discount). They don't have hot rolled sheets in 13 gauge, only 12 and they're $212.

How about cut the ten gallon tank in half and add some metal in between to make it bigger?

I want to preserve the 10 gallon tank in case I want to reconfigure in the future for upgrades. Also, it is powder coated so finishing it would be an issue.