Firewood - Wood Splitter - Not Tractor Attached - Whats best?

[CalG]

"Cycle" as applies to a wood splitter is Out and back. With the hydro valve configured for auto retract. The return stroke is done while the next piece is being positioned.
Plus, as the retract stroke on a hydro unit requires a fraction of the fluid volume, the retract time is always less than the extension.

Bottom line? I can't keep up with the hydro unit for more than about ten minutes, less on a hot day. The "lickity splitters" are for the boys! ;-)

Consider too, loading rounds with the bucket loader sure cut's in on the "Splits per minute" count ;-)

 

[MossflowerWoods]

Ok,

A couple questions/points from my perspective...

1 - What's a table? I am pretty fit and I do not mind the "work" involved in most of this, but the engineer in me cannot "see" how the table helps. One that splits laying down or standing up makes sense to me, but I'm a n00b still in many ways... I'm sure a conveyor belt fed splitter with an auto-stacker would be PERFECT but seem to me that path leads to robots, Skynet, and "Terminator" movies... (LOL!)

Keep in mind that previously I've been splitting with a maul, and only occasionally burn. In fact, I stacked rounds, and only split them before I burned them, after "seasoning" in a stack outside as long as from Fall 2010, to as recent as last spring.

2 - MOST of what I will wanting to split is the tops from very large hardwoods, so I suspect likely twisted/crotch type.

3 - I'm still paying off lawyers etc from my divorce last month so money is not an "issue" but not unlimited either. I seriously doubt I'm buying a $3,500 splitter. I'm thinking under $1,000 honestly...

Be well,
David

 

[Garandman]

It's the black thing. Even on a small piece where you might only have three splits, the first split cuts it in half, and the two pieces fall off either side. So you wind up walking around to fetch it, regardless of religious affiliation (KE or Hyd).

The table keeps the pieces there, you shove off what you don't want and keep the piece to be split again. They seem to run $80-150 as an option.

Keep in mind that some hydraulic spiltters can be oriented vertically so you don't have to lift the piece up.

 

[Teachu2]

Ok,

A couple questions/points from my perspective...

1 - What's a table? I am pretty fit and I do not mind the "work" involved in most of this, but the engineer in me cannot "see" how the table helps. One that splits laying down or standing up makes sense to me, but I'm a n00b still in many ways... I'm sure a conveyor belt fed splitter with an auto-stacker would be PERFECT but seem to me that path leads to robots, Skynet, and "Terminator" movies... (LOL!)

Keep in mind that previously I've been splitting with a maul, and only occasionally burn. In fact, I stacked rounds, and only split them before I burned them, after "seasoning" in a stack outside as long as from Fall 2010, to as recent as last spring.

2 - MOST of what I will wanting to split is the tops from very large hardwoods, so I suspect likely twisted/crotch type.

3 - I'm still paying off lawyers etc from my divorce last month so money is not an "issue" but not unlimited either. I seriously doubt I'm buying a $3,500 splitter. I'm thinking under $1,000 honestly...

Be well,
David

TSC sells a 22 ton at just under a grand if you want new - powered by Kohler. Used are harder to find, but cheaper. You might consider posting a "wanted" ad on Craigslist. The $1400 Troy-Bilt 27 ton is a good machine, powered by Honda, and Lowes often has cheap credit terms, if you wish to string it out for 6-12 months. If my $500 Craigslist special had not happened, that was my Plan B.

 

[caver]

I've seen several 22-ish ton splitters at a couple area farm stores on sale for maybe 6-700 in the past few weeks. I split mostly Oak with a 22 ton Swisher. I do agree with others that a log lift would have been better. If money was no object.......I would just pay someone to bring me firewood.

 

[MossflowerWoods]

TSC sells a 22 ton at just under a grand if you want new - powered by Kohler. Used are harder to find, but cheaper. You might consider posting a "wanted" ad on Craigslist. The $1400 Troy-Bilt 27 ton is a good machine, powered by Honda, and Lowes often has cheap credit terms, if you wish to string it out for 6-12 months. If my $500 Craigslist special had not happened, that was my Plan B.

I have a Lowes card and 18 month 0%.... Hmmm

That sounds really attractive.

David

 

[Teachu2]

I have a Lowes card and 18 month 0%.... Hmmm

That sounds really attractive.

David

Sometimes a plan just falls into place!

Shop Troy-Bilt 27-Ton Gas Log Splitter at Lowes.com

 

[Piston]

.....not just ONE...

Is that even possible?


It almost seems like some people are trying to say that one single type of splitter is the "best".

It may be the best for one person, but not another. I personally don't want a SuperSplit style splitter, but I know they are super fast (a LOT faster than hydraulic in some situations).

I would choose the Split-Fire 3465, 4 way splitter, bi-directional, with extended length to 30" and a hydraulic log lift. My reasoning is because I tend to split large, heavy pieces of wood, and would not want to lift the wood up off the ground onto that table. I could use the FEL which works great for once in a while, but when your splitting a lot of wood its not the most efficient log lift.
I also like to split my wood pretty small, at about 16"-18" length, and since I re-split a lot, I don't want the wood being pushed off the end, I want it to stay right there where it is.
The other reason is because I think about having my kids help me split wood someday, or even other people who aren't familiar with splitters, and I feel that it's easier to lose a finger on the quicker models like the Supersplit.

With the ability to make 8 splits in a matter of 9 seconds or so, it would give the Supersplit a run for its money. Still, if you have the right size wood, I don't think there is a faster splitter out there assuming you can keep the thing fed.

If I wanted the splits to be pushed off the end of the splitter, was using relatively "normal" size rounds to split, and wasn't concerned about other, inexperienced people, then I don't think you could beat the SS.

For my situation, the Split-Fire would be "best". However, I don't think it's the "best" splitter.

 

[gladehound]

If I did it all over again. I wouldn't get a log splitter. I had an average chainsaw (Stihl MS290), then got a log splitter (TSC 22 ton), then got a really good saw (Dolmar 7900). If it doesn't split easily with a maul, the Dolmar will rip it as fast as my splitter and is much more convenient for the really big stuff where I can bring the saw to the giant round rather than bringing a giant round to a splitter. The point is, I think a great saw or saws is a better spend than a cheap splitter and both can be had for about the same coin.

 

[David P]

This video most closely resembles how I split wood. I cut to 16" and split it into very small pieces. I slide the pieces that have been split and are ready to stack to the right side of the splitter and the kids pull them off and stack them onto pallets. Large rounds are rolled into the FEL and pulled right up to the table so they may be rolled onto the table. I stack them in the FEL 2 rounds high so by the time I get it split, I'm ready for a short break which I use to re-load the FEL.

I really struggled with my decision between the SS and the Split-Fire. In the end, the SS works best for my application but I don't think it's perfect for me, either. It sure would be nice to have a second splitter that would allow me to split the huge stuff vertically once in a while.

But in the end the SS and the accompanying exercise program are cheaper and more convenient than a less-expensive splitter and a gym membership.

When purchasing equipment (and anything, I suppose), everything is a trade-off. Compare a light weight John Deere Gator 6x4 outfitted with the flotation tires with something like a Kubota RTV (or similar): One is nice and light weight, goes through the mud and slop without making ruts or getting stuck, travels along steep grade with ease due to the low center of gravity, etc with the other that can actually push snow, doesn't get stuck in 4 inches of snow, is much heavier duty in almost every aspect and you see what I mean. Everything's a trade off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V95e-sMQTL8

 

[Teachu2]

If I did it all over again. I wouldn't get a log splitter. I had an average chainsaw (Stihl MS290), then got a log splitter (TSC 22 ton), then got a really good saw (Dolmar 7900). If it doesn't split easily with a maul, the Dolmar will rip it as fast as my splitter and is much more convenient for the really big stuff where I can bring the saw to the giant round rather than bringing a giant round to a splitter. The point is, I think a great saw or saws is a better spend than a cheap splitter and both can be had for about the same coin.

So you don't use your splitter for the majority of your splitting work?????

 

[s219]

I have a Lowes card and 18 month 0%.... Hmmm

If that is a factor, seriously, go get a DHT 22-ton splitter for $899 from Lowes then -- it's by far the heaviest duty splitter brand they sell, and you can't beat the price. I gave links and coupon information in my post way up above. Construction quality is on par with the Northstar units from Northern and the TSC splitters, which means a step above the generic Troy-bilt spinoffs.

 

[Garandman]

There's one type of ssplitter that hasn't come up. There are a number of relatively inexpensive electric units that have a screw drive. They start at less than $300 for a five ton at Harbor Freight.

 

[CalG]

there are always the splitters that bolt on in place of one rear wheel on your automobile.

But speed is not the selling point for that style ;-)

 

[rswyan]

Ok,

A couple questions/points from my perspective...

1 - What's a table? I am pretty fit and I do not mind the "work" involved in most of this, but the engineer in me cannot "see" how the table helps.

Table (the pipes on the end): 'Cause picking it up for the second time - even with the log lift - would really, really suck ... :

 

[Huskerfan]

David

The 37 ton north star from Northern Tool with a 4 way split is what I purchased this spring. Takes on the toughest oak rounds. The Honda engine is easy to start and powers the pump which is large enough to handle the 4 way splitter with ease.

I strongly considered the DR kinetic machines but 2 things concerned me:

1) lots of moving parts, belt etc. that need to stay aligned correctly and will wear. Thus durability becomes an issue and as does the cost of consumables.

2) the speed of the kinetic machine while amazing is also dangerous IMHO. Imagine a long day first felling a tree, then limbing and cutting it up. Fatigue sets in. But wait, you need to split the wood before it's dark! You rush and get a little careless, you forget to move your hand from the splitter path. In a second, your hand or fingers are crushed or mangled. Enough said.

With the hydraulic splitter, you have 15 sec or so to move your hand out of the way, or you can stop the split by simply releasing the lever of the control valve.

Read the DR reviews, pay attention to the negative ones. You'll find them enlightening. Finally, look at the you tube videos of the DR kinetic splitters before you buy one.

 

[Piston]

David,
For under $1k I think your best bet would be keep your eyes open for a good used splitter on craigslist.


There is a member on here who had a Kinetic energy style splitter (not the Supersplit brand which certainly seems superior to all others). He ended up returning it and purchased a Split-Fire instead.

Here is a pretty good review from Arborist Site from someone who has operated both and wrote a seemingly unbiased review... .

I have owned a Split fire for about 3 years now. I really like it,and have had no problems at all with it. Here is a review I did in March about the Super Split and the Split Fire at my GTG.

"We had a Super Split and a Split Fire at our GTG in March. I liked the height of the Super Split and the large table. It is truly a nice machine to run.Pros where the height being comfortable to split,but that also required you to pick the rounds up higher. It is also next to impossible to tow in that configuration.It is extremely easy to tip,even wheeling it around by hand it is top heavy. The guys that brought it had it upset when they loaded it in the back of the truck. And we had trouble when we re loaded it for the trip home. It has to be tied down good to keep it from tipping over in the back of the truck or trailer.When it was set up on a level spot it was nice. All of the wood that it split could easily been put on a conveyor. We split nothing but cherry,contrary to what I have read it will not split every thing. Sometimes an extra hit will do it,sometimes you have to beat the log off. To be far,this does not happen often but it happens.Over all its a great splitter,but it does not split anything you throw at it.Also at times a piece of wood would really get thrown out.Kinda like hitting a round with an axe and have the wood go flying.

The split fire like the super split is well made. The split fire splits in both directions and has a four way wedge that the super split does not. I do believe from our experience that the split fire will keep up and in cases be faster then the super split.Wood the super split would not split the split fire easily split. Cons.The split fire we had was set up to tow on the road,that is great for going longer distances. But when stopped it is to low to split comfortably. This was rectified by putting the splitter on 2 car ramps and the front on a block. It was quit easy to use after that,and was as comfortable as the super split. The back and forth splitting was fast and nice,however this does not allow the wood to go one direction for a conveyer or pile. You basically got to throw all the splits off by hand.The table also is not as large as the super split.This can be changed,you can make it longer. I do believe that you can get a log lift for both splitters. As I get older this might be nice.However I just put large rounds in my loader bucket and slide them off at the same level as either splitter.
Both were very economical on fuel,both had their advantages. This particular day the split fire split all that was thrown at it,the super split did not. Cost wise they were both very close to $3000.00. Personally I would be happy with either unit,they both had pros and cons.

Splitting 15 to 20 cords or less a year I would probably choose the split fire. Its a great splitter and seems to be tough as nails. It also handled the knotty wood better.

Over 15 to 20 cords I would probably choose the super split,especially if I had access to a lot of straight grained wood. It is fun to run and it pushes the wood one way,fast.So you can put the wood on a conveyor easily. I would keep a good hydraulic splitter around for the hard to split rounds.

I tried to be as far as I could about this review. I actually like both of these splitters,but neither is perfect."

Hope this helps. Dave

 

[LD1]

Dont know if its different in other areas, but I have yet to see a decent splitter on c-list.

All I see are the box store ones, a few years old, and only ~$100 off normal price. Can catch them in a sale and usually buy cheaper than people advertise on c-list. Plus get piece of mind buying new and getting a warranty.

And all the homemade jobs people are wanting $600-$700 for a pile of junk. Rotten tires, ergonomics suck, all rusted up, no jack, too low to the ground, water pipe fittings, missing parts, slow single stage motor, etc etc.

 

[LD1]

Here are some examples of what c-list has to offer in my area. And this is all there ever is:

Huskee 22 ton log splitter
32 Ton Log Splitter
LOG SPLITTER
Heavy duty log splitter
Log Splitter
http://cleveland.craigslist.org/grd/5027282746.html

Poor designs, and overpriced

 

[gladehound]

So you don't use your splitter for the majority of your splitting work?????

Depends on how I feel and how long I plan on splitting.

If I am healthy.... If splitting less than an hour at a time I use the maul and set aside hard splitting stuff to get later with the hydraulic splitter or the chainsaw. If it's easy splitting wood, I am faster with the splitting maul than the hydraulic splitter (until I start getting tired). If more than an hour I use the hydraulic splitter because I start to fatigue using the maul more than an hour. For really big stuff (3ft+ diameter) I always quarter it with the saw before using the maul or the splitter.

When injured... I had a shoulder and elbow injury in the past and used the splitter a lot then. If you're ever injured and can't swing a splitting maul the hydraulic splitter really nice to have.

If I didn't have the hydraulic splitter I'd just keep my splitting sessions under an hour and get the exercise and use the saw for knotty stuff. There is stuff that is near impossible to split with a splitter because it is so stringy. The saw will make nice clean splits with this stuff (and a lot of mulch!)

So a splitter is nice to have for long sessions or if you physically can't swing a maul well. But if you have a lot of wood processing to do and don't already have a saw in the 70 to 100cc range the saw will save you a lot more time than the splitter as long as you don't mind swinging a maul - because the saw will save you time cross cutting over a smaller saw, and can quickly rip pieces that are too tough to split with the maul.

In an average year I probably split 4 cords with the maul / saw and 2 with the splitter. Sometimes it just comes down to what I feel using because I get about the same amount done either way. I'm 44 years old. My father still splits wood and is 72 years old. He uses the splitter 100% of the time because he just doesn't have the shoulders to swing the maul anymore.