First serious box blading.

   / First serious box blading. #11  
Someting that helps with the wavy road issue is to replace your top ling with a chain lower your blade and fill the box this will let your blade float a bit as the tractor goes up and down. Then when you get it smoothed out replace your adjustable top link for more control. I have a float detent on my top part of the top and tilt that allows this with the cylinder.
 
   / First serious box blading.
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Day 3 of box scraping my driveway is starting to come around I used the fel last night to cut and back drag the high spot gave me lot mor control. then went over driveway agian with box blade. I like the idea of a chain in top link to let box float more may try that tonight now that i have most of the wavy part out of drive. its about where i want it for now and i think it will be easyer to mantian now that i have it levell. Thanks agian guys for all your help you guys have great ideas that i guy can forget or just never think of when he is in the middle of a project.
 
   / First serious box blading. #13  
I've been wondering how a box grader might work for finish work if you mounted detachable 4-5 foot long angle iron skids on the bottom outside of the side plates. Let the blade be an inch or less below the skid. Make it kind of like a one-blade Dura-grader. Then let it float. Easier and cheaper than gauge wheels.

Bruce
 
   / First serious box blading. #14  
I've been wondering how a box grader might work for finish work if you mounted detachable 4-5 foot long angle iron skids on the bottom outside of the side plates. Let the blade be an inch or less below the skid. Make it kind of like a one-blade Dura-grader. Then let it float. Easier and cheaper than gauge wheels.

Bruce

Interesting idea. That would be an easy modification, and I can see how it could work in theory, but I'm not experienced enough in this area to have any valid opinions as to actual feasibility. Anybody else out there have any thoughts about this?

Joe
 
   / First serious box blading. #15  
I have mentioned this a few times on TBN this year without any response from others.

Next chance I get to pickup some steel I will buy some boxbeam to make these with wear strips. While I have an eight ft grader/landplane the ability to use my boxblade with rippers and much higher carrying capacity is intriguing.

A side benefit for me is the weight savings, my landplane/grader weighs about 950 lbs. and the boxblade is 1250 lbs. Hauling both of these with the tractor on my trailer is a bit much, but 200 lbs of skids added to the boxblade would be doable.

The next consideration is mounting, I first thought about a simple mounting that would bolt up over welded in place bushings (a fixed mounting). Now I am considering a hydraulically adjusted tilt and trying to weight the pros and cons compared to the present topntilt method.
 
   / First serious box blading. #16  
I've been wondering how a box grader might work for finish work if you mounted detachable 4-5 foot long angle iron skids on the bottom outside of the side plates. Let the blade be an inch or less below the skid. Make it kind of like a one-blade Dura-grader. Then let it float. Easier and cheaper than gauge wheels.

Bruce

I watched a demo video of a land plane recently and that was exactly the feature they touted as making their product better than a boxblade....the longer rails reducing the up/down volatility.
 
   / First serious box blading. #17  
duckhunter,
You can use a chain to float the boxblade and other implements like a rotary cutter too. Moving the dirt to the right place directly is usually faster though. Floating works well to smooth over the surface but down pressure will speed up the smoothing process where small mounds of dirt or gravel need to be moved.

Here are some pics of a patio I built this past week where I had to build a berm around the outside edge. On the inside or right side of the patio is a septic system about 10 ft away from the patio so I couldn't drive over that. When I built the patio the finished grade for the left corner was about 36 inches higher than the ground around it, so I brought in fill and topsoil to taper and smooth it out. All of it is compacted except the top couple of inches and ready for seed.

All of this was done with the fel on my 110tlb.
 
 
 
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