first time changing hydraulic fluid

[tmeric7]

Hello, I've owned my fist tractor, a New Holland TC29DA for almost two years. Got it used (obviously) from the previous owner of my property. It's great! It had somewhere between 400-500 hours when I got it, and now it's just over 600. I didn't have a maintenance history, but the previous owner seemed like he took care of it, so I just assumed it was reasonably on schedule.

Changing the hydraulic oil and filters (hydraulic and hydrostat) are listed at 600 hours, so I was planning to do that soon. I read some suggest to only change filters if the fluid looks good, but I don't know if I'm able to judge that for sure. It looks fine to me, but that's exactly what I said about the spark on my truck when it turned out the ignition coil was bad! Hydraulic oil doesn't seem to change color like engine oil does. I don't really know, probably best to change the fluid on schedule.

I've never changed hydraulic oil, but I've certainly changed engine oil on many different vehicles and it looks just like that with a lot more fluid. I'm expecting almost 9 gal. There are two drain plugs: transmission near the center of the tractor, and rear axle. My plan would be to place a 5 gal bucket beneath each plug and open simultaneously. Maybe have a third bucket on hand too. Is this reasonable? I don't want to make a mess, which is an area I do have experience! What does everyone else do to catch the oil?

What do I do with the used oil? I suppose the tractor dealer accepts it for recycling? Any other uses?

Is there anything else I should really know?!

I'll also do the front axle differential and final reduction oil at the same time (also listed at 600 hours), so tips beyond the basic operators manual stuff there are appreciated too. Thanks!

 

[SmallChange]

My first experience in this department happened months ago when I did the 50 hour hydraulic filter change, not trying to change the fluid. I spun the filter off and fluid gushed forth into my oil change pan. I couldn't get the new filter started and put the old one back on when the pan threatened to overflow, and transferred the pan contents into an old 5 gal container. Then I tried again, and did get the new filter started, but not before losing another gallon. This was a hectic situation, and, since my containers were dirty, I wasn't going to put the fluid back in, so I had to buy new. It cost over $100 plus another trip to the dealer. Also, my hydraulics were spongy for a while after, apparently because I got air into the system.

I did post about the experience here, and people answered with tips like putting a vacuum cleaner on the fill port to suck the fluid away from the open filter mount.

My machine holds I think about 6 gallons, not so much as yours. I'm going to venture that you will be better off if you just open one plug, and be ready to put it back in before your bucket fills. I guess your local recycling center has a big ugly tank for used motor oil and the like, which is a good place to put it unless your dealer will accept it.

 

[ericm979]

get a drain pan that holds 10 gallons or more and open each drain plug one at a time. You don't know how much will come out of each one.

nearly full open top 5 gallon buckets spill easily.

I use a 12 gallon drain pan. It's one of those with a basin on top that drains into a reservoir below, so it doesn't spill. I transfer to 5 gallon buckets with lids for recycling.

Lower the FEL and 3pt so there's a minimum of oil in their cylinders.

 

[big bubba]

i use low profile large utility bins @ Wal, better than buckets as stated. not sure how you intend to refill, but i purchase hyd fluid in 5 gal containers & use the pump below. then just pour the old into the empty 5 gal buckets.
also after you do the ft axle ( i use GL5 80/90), check the level again in a day or 2 after some use, it always takes time to settle good luck

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200612566_200612566

 

[DonaldP]

Hello, I've owned my fist tractor, a New Holland TC29DA for almost two years. Got it used (obviously) from the previous owner of my property. It's great! It had somewhere between 400-500 hours when I got it, and now it's just over 600. I didn't have a maintenance history, but the previous owner seemed like he took care of it, so I just assumed it was reasonably on schedule.

Changing the hydraulic oil and filters (hydraulic and hydrostat) are listed at 600 hours, so I was planning to do that soon. I read some suggest to only change filters if the fluid looks good, but I don't know if I'm able to judge that for sure. It looks fine to me, but that's exactly what I said about the spark on my truck when it turned out the ignition coil was bad! Hydraulic oil doesn't seem to change color like engine oil does. I don't really know, probably best to change the fluid on schedule.

I've never changed hydraulic oil, but I've certainly changed engine oil on many different vehicles and it looks just like that with a lot more fluid. I'm expecting almost 9 gal. There are two drain plugs: transmission near the center of the tractor, and rear axle. My plan would be to place a 5 gal bucket beneath each plug and open simultaneously. Maybe have a third bucket on hand too. Is this reasonable? I don't want to make a mess, which is an area I do have experience! What does everyone else do to catch the oil?

What do I do with the used oil? I suppose the tractor dealer accepts it for recycling? Any other uses?

Is there anything else I should really know?!

I'll also do the front axle differential and final reduction oil at the same time (also listed at 600 hours), so tips beyond the basic operators manual stuff there are appreciated too. Thanks!

Hmmmm, what to do with the oil...

We have all seen those liquid streaks on the highway that don't seem to go away when the sun comes out. I suppose if we went onto the dark web we might find a company that does this and will even come to your place to pick up the oil for a fee. There are some pretty creative folks out there!

Don't be surprised though if you see that liquid that wont evaporate just outside your driveway when you come home from work... The first thing you will hear yourself saying is; "Heck, I could have done that without the added cost"

 

[grsthegreat]

Our local landfill has holding tanks for used oils. No charge.

 

[Hughman]

I just changed my hydro oil in my TC33DA. About 9-10 gallons. I used a black mortar mixing trough to drain into, and a transfer pump to put it into 1 gallon jugs. We have curbside recycling where I'm at.

 

[Avenger]

I take my used oil to the recycling center. Any container with a lid is accepted. Also, pretty much any oil. I found a metal 5 gallon bucket of some type of oil in it, under a tree on my property. To say that this bucket was old, is an understatement. I took it in, told the guy that I didnt know what was in it, and he set it aside and said "have a good day."

As to my experiences changing hydraulic oil. I've done several hundreds of gallons over my lifetime thus far. I use this to catch the oil:

Amazon.com: Bestauto Portable Oil Drain Pan with Pump 64L Oil Drain Pan 17 Gallon Low Profile Oil Drain Pan with 8' Hose for SUV Car and Trucks : Automotive

Buy Bestauto Portable Oil Drain Pan with Pump 64L Oil Drain Pan 17 Gallon Low Profile Oil Drain Pan with 8' Hose for SUV Car and Trucks: Oil Drains - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I've replaced the pump handle and use a drill to spin it (I'm lazy and dont want to waste my time cranking a handle on my knees). I pump the oil, fuel, coolant, whatever, into buckets to take to the recycling center. They dump them for me and give me my buckets back. This catch pan is a bit spendy, but worth it when you dont have a giant mess to clean up.

As for adding new oil, you can certainly stand there, slowing adding new oil, holding up a 5 gallon bucket, or get this:

https://www.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-1300-Lever-Action-Bucket-Gallon/dp/B000MCXOPO/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=5+gallon+oil+pump&qid=1630342213&sr=8-5

It will pump the oil out and save your back.

 

[Williy]

Some places don't like you to mix the motor
oil with tranny fluid. There are people that use
motor oil to heat their workshop and don't want
a mix! Wonder if tranny fluid would work for painting
my wooden fence??? Anyone know?? changing
tranny fluid for the first 50 hours and front axle.

willy

 

[DonaldP]

Hello, I've owned my fist tractor, a New Holland TC29DA for almost two years. Got it used (obviously) from the previous owner of my property. It's great! It had somewhere between 400-500 hours when I got it, and now it's just over 600. I didn't have a maintenance history, but the previous owner seemed like he took care of it, so I just assumed it was reasonably on schedule.

Changing the hydraulic oil and filters (hydraulic and hydrostat) are listed at 600 hours, so I was planning to do that soon. I read some suggest to only change filters if the fluid looks good, but I don't know if I'm able to judge that for sure. It looks fine to me, but that's exactly what I said about the spark on my truck when it turned out the ignition coil was bad! Hydraulic oil doesn't seem to change color like engine oil does. I don't really know, probably best to change the fluid on schedule.

I've never changed hydraulic oil, but I've certainly changed engine oil on many different vehicles and it looks just like that with a lot more fluid. I'm expecting almost 9 gal. There are two drain plugs: transmission near the center of the tractor, and rear axle. My plan would be to place a 5 gal bucket beneath each plug and open simultaneously. Maybe have a third bucket on hand too. Is this reasonable? I don't want to make a mess, which is an area I do have experience! What does everyone else do to catch the oil?

What do I do with the used oil? I suppose the tractor dealer accepts it for recycling? Any other uses?

Is there anything else I should really know?!

I'll also do the front axle differential and final reduction oil at the same time (also listed at 600 hours), so tips beyond the basic operators manual stuff there are appreciated too. Thanks!

I suppose though that the world is not ready for that kind of humor... yet.

I am however wondering if the "Woke" out there will start a thread to banish me from TractorByNet for offering some levity. If they need help, I'm sure TractorByNet can get support on how to do this from Twitter, Facebook and Two new space cadets!

 

[DonaldP]

Some places don't like you to mix the motor
oil with tranny fluid. There are people that use
motor oil to heat their workshop and don't want
a mix! Wonder if tranny fluid would work for painting
my wooden fence??? Anyone know?? changing
tranny fluid for the first 50 hours and front axle.

willy

Mix it with Milk! I used to milk wash the fences when I was a kid. It seemed to work? (But for god sakes don't drink it, I don't think that will work even if you cut it with a copious amounts of really good Russian Vodka.)

 

[Captain Dirty]

. . . Changing the hydraulic oil and filters (hydraulic and hydrostat) are listed at 600 hours, so I was planning to do that soon. I read some suggest to only change filters if the fluid looks good, but I don't know if I'm able to judge that for sure. It looks fine to me, but . . . Hydraulic oil doesn't seem to change color like engine oil does. I don't really know, probably best to change the fluid on schedule.

Send a sample of your hydraulic oil to reputable laboratory, and ask for a recommendation if the oil should be replaced. Their analysis will be far better than your naked eye. Blackstone Labs (with whom I have no connection other than being a customer) provides free sample bottles and mailers and will sell you a pump and tubing kit to collect samples. Cost of an analysis is around $30.00 which is short money compared to the cost of the oil for a complete change and cheap assurance for peace of mind.

 

[oosik]

The service shop at the local Kubota dealership has a waste oil furnace. They will take motor oil and hydraulic oil - gladly.

 

[tmeric7]

Thanks for the replies and tips everyone!

I did search old forum posts before putting the question out there, but I suspected that there was more than I actually found. Thanks SmallChange for noting your prior post. I searched you and found it.

My plan for refilling was to heft the 5 gal buckets into the air and not spill the fluid everywhere. The pumps a couple of you post seem like the wise method. I can be stubborn (and I want to really appreciate the pump when I buy it in the future), so I may still go plan A this time, haha. And thanks for the drain pan advice.

Only one poster mentioned air in the lines after the job and a spongy feel. Is this a common sort of side-effect? Are their ways to avoid it? (Like lowering the FEL and rear hydraulics, as one poster mentioned.)

 

[Avenger]

Yeah, to get the air out, simply cycle the hydraulics a few times. No bleeders or anything like that.

 

[grsthegreat]

Some places don't like you to mix the motor
oil with tranny fluid. There are people that use
motor oil to heat their workshop and don't want
a mix! Wonder if tranny fluid would work for painting
my wooden fence??? Anyone know?? changing
tranny fluid for the first 50 hours and front axle.

willy

waste oil furnaces burn any kind of oil. they dont care.

 

[rScotty]

The service shop at the local Kubota dealership has a waste oil furnace. They will take motor oil and hydraulic oil - gladly.

Is it just me? I'd have trouble selling tractors with emissions controls and then burning waste oil.
But then I'm not so sure that collecting soot and then burning it all at once makes sense either.

 

[ericm979]

The DPF or similar keeps the soot out of the air where people breathe it and get cancer. It's not for CO2 emissions. Tire IV has limits on emissions other than soot but they're possible to meet with engine tuning.

But yea I agree that recycling waste oil is better for the environment than burning it.

 

[Avenger]

Is it just me? I'd have trouble selling tractors with emissions controls and then burning waste oil.
But then I'm not so sure that collecting soot and then burning it all at once makes sense either.

You're talking about rules the EPA... the Government... places on its people. The same Government that is responsible for the Afghanistan. Nothing the Government does makes sense. Everything they touch, they mess up. Just sayin.

 

[stevem5215]

Problem is that the government and corporations are made up of people. People make the bad decisions. Just so happens that in the case of Afghanistan it's government decisions that employed contractors in positions that were of importance in keeping it all going. Pull the contractors out and guess what happens ? Failures within. That's what happened. Bad people decisions.
Then the decision to leave Billions of dollars in defense spending is just another bunch of bad people decisions. We all know those people.