Buying Advice First time tractor owner - soon

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

For a cross-brand comparison:

2018 Max 26XL 4WD HST with FEL
Mahindra attachments:
5' Heavy Duty Box Blade
5' Standard Duty Landscape Rake
5' Heavy Duty Tilt and Angle Scraper Blade
Rear tires filled w/ WW fluid

Total price out the door: $16,669

Included:
Rubber floor mat
Tilt wheel
Power steering
Cruise control
HST linked pedal
SSQA FEL
No DPF or Regen
1 more HP than the CK2510
More lift capacity
2 ft smaller turning radius
Shorter and wider frame
BH-ready frame (add BH at any time)
Rear remote is optional (I do plan to add TNT)

If I added a BH to this package, it would be around $23k.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

I'm in Central Pa. Where have you seen that price?

I thought of the 2610. I like the larger lift capacity and weight. i don't like the wider, longer size. I have some tight spots to fit in. Although, I'd go to 2610 if the price is the same. Don't think it will be.

Mike

Google "Larry Stovsand equipment", I believe they are in Murfreesboro Tennessee. They had the CK2610 TLB on sale 2 months ago for $22k, now advertised at 23,900. Not sure about cost of delivery, but that price might give you some negotiation ammo.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

I'm in Central Pa. Where have you seen that price?

I thought of the 2610. I like the larger lift capacity and weight. i don't like the wider, longer size. I have some tight spots to fit in. Although, I'd go to 2610 if the price is the same. Don't think it will be.

Mike

Larry Stovesand Equipment in Murfreesboro Tennessee is advertising the 2610 TLB for 23,900. They also have a current special on the 2610 HST w/ loader BELOW $16,900....not sure of the actual price...they say too low to publish. I'm actually going to call them tomorrow to see. Don't know how much for delivery, but you could use their price for negotiations.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

OOPS, kind of double post Also, the LS 3025 TLB can be had for about $23k if you have an LS dealer near you.

 

[MikeR 2018]

Thanks to everyone for the many good insights and ideas. I think it's time to do some hands on shopping and test driving. That will be so much easier with the knowledge you people have shared. Thanks, again.

I'll post again when I pull the trigger (sometime in August - I hope)

 

[cphilip]

If you get a 2610 these are what I consider must have options to add in. (or get later even and on ANY tractor)... in order of importance to a great degree...

Pin/Slide type stabilizer bars (eliminate the turnbuckles)
Telescoping lift arms
Third Function hydraulics (W R Long or similar) for a grapple (you'll never live without one once you experience one)
At least one rear remote hydraulic function or two even. But one is a minimum.

These are sorts of things you would get on an SE I believe but the 2610, to date, does not come in an SE edition. It would sell like hot cakes if it did. But it at this point does not. But these can be added for around the cost of the same as most are reporting paying for the SE upgrade. But only if you have a good dealer who will work with you would I do these later as it might cost you more than that. Up front it should be easy enough to do it for that around 1.6 K or so. I did anyway

Typical prices are $250 for the telescoping lift arms and I modified an older set of telescoping stabilizers and had $300 in that but it can be done cheaper. I have $950 in my Third function and will be about $400 in my rear remote once I get that accomplished.

I've just made myself a birthday present of a diamond plate aluminum Canopy but thats not a necessity. But that set me back $450 for one from Kioti. There are some cheaper options already discussed here.

 

[airbiscuit]

If you get a 2610 these are what I consider must have options to add in. (or get later even and on ANY tractor)... in order of importance to a great degree...

Pin/Slide type stabilizer bars (eliminate the turnbuckles)
Telescoping lift arms
Third Function hydraulics (W R Long or similar) for a grapple (you'll never live without one once you experience one)
At least one rear remote hydraulic function or two even. But one is a minimum.

These are sorts of things you would get on an SE I believe but the 2610, to date, does not come in an SE edition. It would sell like hot cakes if it did. But it at this point does not. But these can be added for around the cost of the same as most are reporting paying for the SE upgrade. But only if you have a good dealer who will work with you would I do these later as it might cost you more than that. Up front it should be easy enough to do it for that around 1.6 K or so. I did anyway

Typical prices are $250 for the telescoping lift arms and I modified an older set of telescoping stabilizers and had $300 in that but it can be done cheaper. I have $950 in my Third function and will be about $400 in my rear remote once I get that accomplished.

I've just made myself a birthday present of a diamond plate aluminum Canopy but thats not a necessity. But that set me back $450 for one from Kioti. There are some cheaper options already discussed here.

Good advice here.

 

[AndyMA]

Good advice here.

The one thing I would change beside telescoping lift arms is go to a 16 or 18" inch backhoe bucket. To me the only thing more versatile than a close tine grapple is a backhoe. 12 inches is too small except for trenching, It fills up and is tough to empty

Andy

 

[MikeR 2018]

The one thing I would change beside telescoping lift arms is go to a 16 or 18" inch backhoe bucket. To me the only thing more versatile than a close tine grapple is a backhoe. 12 inches is too small except for trenching, It fills up and is tough to empty

Andy

Didn't realize that. Guess I'll change to 16". Price is not much more.

 

[NYCheese]

Didn't realize that. Guess I'll change to 16". Price is not much more.

If you just want to have 1 bucket that will cover most tasks well, 16" is a good choice. If you want 2 buckets, I'd get 12 and 18.

 

[LMychajluk]

@OP - Just to re-iterate what others have said - the $27k seems a bit high for the CK2510.

Like NYCheese, I recently bought a CK3510SE TLB, filled tires, and a back hoe thumb from a NY dealer which came to just over $27k (w/o tax). I also got a 55" grapple and WR Long 3rd function kit from EA for an additional ~$2500, and the installation of the 3rd function was included in the dealer's price. With the CK2510 being smaller w/ fewer standard features, I would think it would be somewhat less, even with your additional implements.

FWIW, my dealer also said I could have my choice of buckets (front and back) at the same price. I went 66" and 16".

The -SE model includes the following equipment as standard, along w/ an Independant PTO:
Headlights
Signal Lamp
Parking Brake
Hydrostatic Power Steering
Wet Multi Disc Brakes
Single Lever Joystick
Rear PTO
Flip Up PTO Cover
Illuminatated Dashboard
Cup Holder
Tilt Steering
Horn
Dual Armrest
Telescopic Lower Link
Telescopic Stabilizers
Side View Mirror
Toolbox
Floormat
Dual Air Cleaner Element
Dual Remote Hydraulic Valves (4 port) (Spring/Detent)
Cruise Control
Link Pedal

 

[CozInCowtown]

Mike,
For that sized property I am going to say the 2510 is a bit smaller than you will need.
I would suggest a CK3510 or CK4010.
JMO.
I sell a couple tractors a year knowing what the customer picked is not going to be big enough for what they want to do. Never sold one that was too big.
Kioti is a great tractor, we have been selling them for 20+ years.
DMC

 

[DieselBound]

Mike,
For that sized property I am going to say the 2510 is a bit smaller than you will need.
I would suggest a CK3510 or CK4010.
JMO.
I sell a couple tractors a year knowing what the customer picked is not going to be big enough for what they want to do. Never sold one that was too big.
Kioti is a great tractor, we have been selling them for 20+ years.
DMC

I'd second this. 30hp should be a minimum if you're going to be doing a lot of tractor work. Keep in mind that there are more HP losses with HST. And consider require'd PTO power. Further, and I don't recall seeing it noted here in this thread (though I only just skimmed), is there consideration on loader work/capacity? This starts to become a little more of an issue when looking to use pallet forks or grapples: weight leveraged out further is rapidly diminished.

All said, I ran with a B7800 on 40 acres for many years. I don't think that any other similar tractor could have held up to what the venerable B7800 did/can hold up to.

No matter what you end up with be sure to get the rear tires ballasted: add on a good box blade and you're going to greatly enhance traction.

Also, thinking about only having 2 ranges... Only time I run in my highest of three gears (both B7800 and NX5510) is if I'm running down the paved road. Generally I'm toting a bunch of weight (one should be in a lower range) or am on rougher ground (most of my place qualifies!).

As someone who regularly rents excavators I have to state that they way out-perform backhoes. If one has a constant need for a backhoe then, yes, probably worth having. Otherwise queue up your jobs and rent. Might be surprised at what you find that you really want to dig up, but cannot with the machine that you have (renting allows you to pick the right tool).

 

[DieselBound]

Mike,
For that sized property I am going to say the 2510 is a bit smaller than you will need.
I would suggest a CK3510 or CK4010.
JMO.
I sell a couple tractors a year knowing what the customer picked is not going to be big enough for what they want to do. Never sold one that was too big.
Kioti is a great tractor, we have been selling them for 20+ years.
DMC

I'd second this. 30hp should be a minimum if you're going to be doing a lot of tractor work. Keep in mind that there are more HP losses with HST. And consider require'd PTO power. Further, and I don't recall seeing it noted here in this thread (though I only just skimmed), is there consideration on loader work/capacity? This starts to become a little more of an issue when looking to use pallet forks or grapples: weight leveraged out further is rapidly diminished.

All said, I ran with a B7800 on 40 acres for many years. I don't think that any other similar tractor could have held up to what the venerable B7800 did/can hold up to.

No matter what you end up with be sure to get the rear tires ballasted: add on a good box blade and you're going to greatly enhance traction.

Also, thinking about only having 2 ranges... Only time I run in my highest of three gears (both B7800 and NX5510) is if I'm running down the paved road. Generally I'm toting a bunch of weight (one should be in a lower range) or am on rougher ground (most of my place qualifies!).

As someone who regularly rents excavators I have to state that they way out-perform backhoes. If one has a constant need for a backhoe then, yes, probably worth having. Otherwise queue up your jobs and rent. Might be surprised at what you find that you really want to dig up, but cannot with the machine that you have (renting allows you to pick the right tool).

 

[bigcut]

Mike,
I'm following your quest with interest. I'm in Central PA and my Son-In-Law maybe in the market for a tractor with some similar requirements to yours. So, I will be interested in your final choices such as model, features, options, dealer and pricing. I am also interested in your experience with the various dealers (ease of doing business/responsiveness) in the CPA area.

Best wishes in your journey.
John

 

[oosik]

I think your choice is probably a bit small for what you plan on doing. I would suggest 32 to 38 hp. And - unless I missed something - I didn't see any list of on-going projects for the backhoe you plan on purchasing.

I suggest - use the backhoe attachment $$$ to get the bigger tractor and line up any backhoe projects and rent a unit. I see so many on here that "just have to have a backhoe" and after that one or two projects - - the backhoe attachment becomes the MOST EXPENSIVE BALLAST you could ever instal on your tractor.

I have a grapple on my FEL and a rear blade on the 3-point. EVERY TIME I start the tractor I use one or the other or both for whatever project I'm doing.

 

[DieselBound]

Spot on, oosik!

Bigger tractor and THEN, after using it a bit (especially on new property), assess your real needs for attachments. And base your largest expenditure on the most needed task(s). If you think that you have LOTS of ditching/digging to do then perhaps it might be worth considering an excavator. And keep in mind that needs change.

I went many years with my B7800 before getting my larger tractor. And at this point I was pretty clear on my needs for attachments. I've spent thousands of dollars renting excavators, BUT, I've also gotten far more work done that I could ever have done with the same amount of money spent on a backhoe (that I'd be having to attach and disconnect all the time- not an easy task): and, yes, even if I were to turn around and resell the backhoe I'd still have not have gotten as much value based on the total amount of work that I've been able to do.

Here's some recent work (20k lb excavator- took me at most 1 hr to extricate this stump):


Most stumps I bury, which requires digging huge holes (easy with an excavator like this). The one above, however, I decided to dump further down on my property; I couldn't carry OR push the stump, in which case I had to roll it, operating the backhoe going backwards. I would NOT be able to have done this with any CUT backhoe.

In another month or so I'll be renting a smaller excavator to clean out ditches. I can knock off hundreds of feet clean-out in no time. With a backhoe you have to keep raising and setting the stabilizers. Do not underestimate the value of your time: keep in mind that doing something the first time seems like spending a lot of time is OK, and it probably is, but later on, once you have a lot more things to maintain, doing it a subsequent time you start to feel the need to get it done a lot faster.

I see a few folks around me with backhoes on their CUTS, but I do not see them operating them. No doubt, however, getting stuck with a backhoe is a lot harder than without one.

 

[oosik]

Thirty six plus years ago - we moved on my 80 acres here. I've got a mile long gravel driveway - 80 acres of Ponderosa pines, bunch grass, a ten acre lake that 80 feet deep and small patches of deer brush. All the "trenching" I've ever done has been with a single tine ripper. I borrowed the neighbors big yellow backhoe and dug up one big Ponderosa pine stump. What a mistake - it took me two day - lack of experience & size of the stump. Besides - nearest neighbor - - 4 miles away, by road. Who in the world is going to see my pine stumps - a trespasser???

I started out with a 26hp - 4WD tractor and a rear blade - Ford 1710. I knew that some day I would have to upgrade to a larger tractor. Ford 1710 - new in 1982 - - traded in for a new Kubota M6040 in 2009.

In those 27 years(1982 - 2009) - I purchased a Wallenstien chipper and the original rear blade. When I upgraded to the M6040 in 2009 - those were the only two implements that had to be upgraded also.

Give yourself a chance to determine EXACTLY what you will need, the type you will need, how big it should be and all the other variables that you are now only guessing at.


Wait until you are actually "playing the game" before you start spending all your money on implement that may never or seldom be used.

 

[DieselBound]

Single tine ripper!

I started several of my ditches using a middle buster plow. The beauty of going slow like this is that if it turned out that the ditch/trench wasn't going to be as viable as hoped I would only have had a minimal deformation of the ground to deal with (easy to fill back in and try again somewhere else).

A big point here, that I think ossik is also making, is that often times you get ahead of yourself before you even know for sure what IS possible. I know that what I've ended up doing has varied quite a bit from when I first got my land. I figure it was a good thing that I had to do a lot of exploring and probing before I really went at it: had I had the understanding of excavators early on I might have done a lot of stupid stuff- that's the downfall of really effective/efficient machines- you can screw things up a a LOT faster! :laughing:

I had to do a lot of stump removal in oder to run some fence lines. Some stumps also were deal with in oder to drastically open up areas: mowing around big root crowns is a pain.