First time using a rear blade, man I really suck!

[Egon]

Back blade is no magic; just put gage wheels on it and roll some material back and forth. Just like the county grader does.

No gauge wheels and it makes a good counterweight!

 

[dragoneggs]

Rear gauge wheels will turn it into a different implement.

I've been pondering on making a pair of gauge wheels that I could use on both my rake and back blade.

 

[Egon]

Gauge wheels simplify a lot of three point equipment.

 

[fried1765]

Back blade is tough, it took me a few weeks of nearly daily work to get my dirt work ok. I think you may be a little hard on yourself, the pics look like your doing fine!
I also like to pull the blade around backward, it does make it look better.
Keep at it, it's like Sheetrock, you don't get good at till the end of the job.
Here's what I learned on, it was a steep learning curve.
MT
View attachment 522320

You are absolutely correct!
Grading with a tractor is not a technique that you pick up on your first day, week, or month.
It takes LOTS of practice, patience, and experience to get the hang of it.

 

[airbiscuit]

Back blade is no magic; just put gage wheels on it and roll some material back and forth. Just like the county grader does.

No gauge wheels and it makes a good counterweight!

Agree!!!

 

[CalG]

I've got a little York Rake . The kind with sulky wheels out back.

That thing is the easiest "road maintenance" implement ever devised.

Like the Hippocratic Oath, "First, Do no harm"

Ref. TA-2B
Model TA2B : York Modern

 

[dragoneggs]

I've got a little York Rake . The kind with sulky wheels out back.

That thing is the easiest "road maintenance" implement ever devised.

Like the Hippocratic Oath, "First, Do no harm"

Ref. TA-2B
Model TA2B : York Modern

"sulky"... an interesting word choice.

 

[redman135]

Bad news soldier415, you need to get a tail wheel for your blade. MASSIVE difference when you do.
I suggest that you drive backwards and set the blade to about 50 degrees angle so that it is slicing the humps off. By using the back of the blade you avoid digging more holes. You will also find that it will dump the material quickly in the hollows while levelling the humps off.
An added benefit is you will be building a crown, the tricky part is reducing the crown's height as it generally ends up to high, without loosing the crown.
hint: as your blade control improves lower the blade so the weight is OFF the top link. Then WITHOUT making any further height adjustments do a run. You are only using the slack in the pins and holes in your top link as you are doing final finish at this stage.
This method is as good as you can get without a tail wheel.
I hope this helps. Good luck

 

[Egon]

The top link can be adjusted so the blade cuts, is neutral or drags. Each has a use depending on what is beginning done.

 

[Al 2]

I have a regular back blade and a box blade. I have a receiver hitch tube on the rear of both for moving trailers around . The next project it to mount a gauge wheel to some receiver stock so I can put it on easily when needed. Also thinking of mounting the gauge wheel to a trailer tongue jack on this tube to allow easy up and down adjustment of the blade .
Al