Buying Advice First Tractor purchase advice

[CobaltSky]

We just moved to a 35 acre property in Colorado. The land is rolling pasture with some widely spaced evergreens and a pond. The property was vacant for almost 2 years so the lawn, if there ever was one, is non existent. We have an 800ft gravel drive, that comes down a moderate grade. I am looking for a tractor that can handle mowing about 5-6 acres of this pasture, with the goal being an acre or so of decent lawn around the house and the rest of that 5-6 just infrequently cut and kept looking decent. It is pretty arid here, so we don't get a lot of weed trees and thick stuff.

I also want to plow (or blow) that driveway, and keep it graded. I may want to till a garden at some point or use a tiller/grade around the house as a basis for establishing lawn.

Snow here can be deep at times, and drifting is the main problem. However snow is dry and powdery (that famous Colorqdo powder), and the sun usually melts off a lot of what the wind doesn't blow away within a few days of a big storm.

To date, I have been focused on Kubota, with my main interest appearing to fall in the B series, specifically the B 2650, but I am open to all suggestions. I think the 2301 might not power everything I want to power, and I like some of the upgrades of the 2650 over the 2601. I looked at the L2501 briefly, but my gut says it might be too heavy for the mower type use around the house. I went in thinking BX, but the more I thought about it and researched, I think I just need something bigger than that. I'd love a cab to protect from the wind driven snow here, but I just can't stomach the extra $$$$ of that glass bubble.

My concern with the 2650 is whether the MMM, which is ground contact will work for mowing my 5-6 acres of pasture. For that matter I don't know if the suspended MMM on the 2601 would be any better, or if I should just get a 5' rotary cutter for the job. If I go with the bush hog now, I'm wondering if the MMM is even worth the extra $$$ to get with the package, thinking I might use it later closest to the house, or if I should just plan on getting a finish cutter for the 3pt later... Or I could get the 60" MMM now and try it to see if it will do the job before I decide on adding the bush hog. So much indecision.

Now for snow, I was wondering if the 60" FEL would do the job, combined with a rear blade, or if I should get a front snow blade or a blower. I don't want to do a lot of forward/reverse/turn/dump on the single lane driveway, but if I can just float the FEL on the gravel and blast through straight a few passes using the rear blade to divert th spillage, I'd be happy (until the wind drifted it all closed again, that is).

Is the rear blade all I need for grading the drive, or should I look into a box grader or scraper?

Not sure what models of or sizes of blades, tillers, or cutters to go with, so any advice is appreciated.

So, I bow to your collective wisdom. Please recommend a tractor and implements. Pictures are attached so you can get an idea of the property.

Thanks!

 

[Tompet]

Wow, very pretty land. Welcome, I think the 2650 is the smallest tractor I would want for your property.

Your idea of just getting a brush hog now and maybe a 3 pt finish mower in future for around house and other finish mowing needs makes sense to me rather than a mmm.

Another option if you are only finish mowing one acre around the house a small dedicated mower for that chore.

I would definitely get the FEL now with package. They are a little awkward for moving snow, but for other uses a must. You can always add a blade or snow blower later as the FEL will never be as good of a deal as you will get with tractor purchase unlike other implements.

Nothing beats a land plane for grading a drive, but I agree with what you wrote that a rear blade would work with the snow removal in conjunction with your FEL and come in handy for other non winter use.

 

[nybirdman]

For the price of a MMM ,you can purchase a dedicated mower.Minimum for snow removal is a rear blade and FEL;but a front blade or rear snow blower may be justified if your snow fall is heavy.
Bush hog for the non-lawn areas and the heaviest tractor you can afford.The small "L's" in the Kubota line are a nice jump from the "B's".
I have run a couple "B's" but our 33HP small L machine is a lot more capable and comfortable.
If your average snow fall is greater than 100"/year,you may need a snow blower.I would also recommend R1's(AG) tires if you aren't going to mow your lawn.

 

[CDennyRun]

The 2650 would probably serve you well if you want a Kubota. I would look at what JD, New Holland and Massey Ferguson has to offer. They are all great machines, but some offer different cab configurations that may or may not fit your body build. Kubota's tend to have a better cab configuration for smaller people from what I've read (not based on experience).

I think a brush hog is a must, as well as a box scraper with adjustable tines for the driveway. A finish mower would be a great option once you've established your lawn. I've never priced one, or a MMM, but I guess I would make that decision once you have a lawn, and see what kind of maneuvering you'll be doing.

Congratulations on the new home!

Chris

 

[varmint]

My personal thoughts would be rear bush hog, R-4 tires, and a dedicated mower for around the acre of lawn around the house, definitely a SSQA * loader with maybe a front plow for snow. Powder is easy to push, and a plow is faster than a blower. I can tell you from about 10 winters of experience that a loader bucket and rear blade WILL clear snow, but it ain't the best choice. I got mighty tired of looking over my right shoulder- you'll be using mostly the blade unless you have feet of snow to move. *(pallet forks are mighty handy for lots of jobs.)

If you get a plow, you'll want either a third function on the loader or rear remote hydraulics with a pair of hoses to the front. My L3400 had the rear remotes, so I went the hose, route, and it works just fine, but if I was using a grapple a lot (you didn't mention one, of course) I would prefer the third function. There are several options for maintaining a gravel lane, from rear blade to box blade to land plane and so forth. Lots of discussions on TbN about that. I got by with just a rear blade, but your situation is probably pretty different. I was also going to ask about soil conditions in Colorado- if you do mow with the tractor and a rear finish mower, turfs are the best choice unless you have dry, sandy/rocky soil. Turfs aren't bad in the snow, either, but R-4s seem like a good compromise tire for most purposes.

 

[CobaltSky]

Thanks all! I was planning on getting loaded R4s. The soil here is dry/sandy with some rocks. Typically very hard compared to what we had back east.

Thoughts on the L2501? It avoids the DFS. Heavier but not more listed power than the 2650. Though it is rated at a lower RPM. If I go with a dedicated ZTR around the house, I could get a heavier tractor without the mid PTO and bigger FEL.

Definitely want the QA/SSQA. Good point about the 3rd function. I'll research land planers. Could be useful in establishing yard and driveway?

My FIL, about 40 minutes away, owns a M5040 and said to get a canopy because the sun here is like a microwave most days. Gotta love CO, more sun than Florida...

Probably because he owns a Kubota and loves it is why I started looking there, but I'll check out others before I decide. Good advice.

I forgot to mention that I am interested in a set of forks, so thanks for the reminder. I have had several occaisions already at tge new house where I would have wanted them. Are the bucket attach forks any good? Or should I go with the whole unit?

 

[Wagtail]

G'day Mate and welcome to TBN from Downunder.

All good advice so far. You're right to go bigger HP than what you initially thought as you'll find evermore jobs to accomplish once you have your rig.

If you can live without a cab, many brands (we refer to them as 'colours', here on TBN) offer a 'bare-bones' version of heir various 'lines'. As an example, my JD 4105 is one such. Ask about them when you're kicking the tyres at your dealerships.

Speaking of dealerships; have a good conversation with your neighbours as to who the best one is around your area. Especially when it comes to service and backing-up their rigs. Colour loyalty is all well and good but support is true piece of mind. Indeed, invite one of your neighbours along with you when you go to look, it makes a world of difference.

A great dealership will sell you the tractor you need.

 

[Tompet]

Thoughts on the L2501? It avoids the DFS. Heavier but not more listed power than the 2650. Though it is rated at a lower RPM.

If I go with a dedicated ZTR around the house, I could get a heavier tractor without the mid PTO and bigger FEL.

Definitely want the QA/SSQA. Good point about the 3rd function. I'll research land planers. Could be useful in establishing yard and driveway?

I forgot to mention that I am interested in a set of forks, so thanks for the reminder. I have had several occaisions already at tge new house where I would have wanted them. Are the bucket attach forks any good? Or should I go with the whole unit?

2501 avoids the dpf as does the 2650, the 2650 has a few more bells and whistles than the heavier framed basic 2501...so research those differences.
In your case if you drop the mmm, a mid pto would be needed only if you want a front mount snowblower, if not, you can live without it.

You mentioned even a larger tractor, look at other L's and grand L just for comparison.

Get the SSQA over the q/a

If you look at land planes, I recommend getting one with ripper teeth. Yes, a landplane is very useful in establishing a yard and driveway. IMO very good implement.

You brought up kubotas initially, but yes, check out some other brands. I think every time you go and look, within reason, you learn something on details or build that will be important to you, not me or others spending your money!

Forks are really handy, your getting SSQA, get the forks, I had a set of clamp on ones and made some modifications to make them work a little better and when kubota came out with the qa (didn't have the SSQA at the time) couldn't wait to get rid of them and get a set of regular forks.

 

[CobaltSky]

Get the SSQA over the q/a

Dealer said the optional quick attach is the universal SSQA. No? I see only one option on the build your own kubota site.

Also he quoted me 4000lb forks. Wouldn't that be overkill (and unnecessary added weight). $885

Also qoted about $1400 for 60" grader scraper from LP. $1568 for 60" LP rotary cutter. $2700 for 72" finish mower...

Any feedback on those prices? Is LP good implements? Being able to finance them at 0% is a plus but I still don't want to overpay.

I looked at and drove the L series todays. I think if I go with a Kubota, I'm pretty sold on a B2650.

Thinking just the 60" rotary for now to mow with. Then decide on either a 72" tow finishe mower or dedicated mower later. The issue I have with dedicated mower here might be dust... It is very dry and dusty here, not like back in VA, where it was like a jungle.

Thinking of passing on the rear blade in favor of the scraper. Still torn on whether I need a front blade for snow. Is a manual vs hydrolic blade ok to work with? By the time I add hydro blade and 3rd function for it, I'm out an extra $2k or so... Don't plan on needing a grapple here.

Forgot to ask dealer about a tiller.

 

[airbiscuit]

Kubota 2650, or Kioti CK 3510, or New Holland Boomer 33, or John Deere 3033R
SSQA Loader & 3rd function or rear remote(s) - bolt on bucket hooks Forks?
R4 Tires (loaded) (you'll know after the first year whether or not you need chains)
5' Box Blade (I'd also buy a cheap used 5' rear blade)
5' Rotary Cutter
5' 3pt finish mower if the lawn is more than you want to do with a rider or zero turn
3pt Snowblower - you'll want it for the heavy snows and drifting. Also serves as extra weight for traction. If you have the $$ a rear pull would be nice for that 800' drive.
See if the dealer will throw in an engine heater for free. It's borderline whether or not you need one, but a warm diesel is happy diesel.

Get what you can afford and need most first. Buy other implements later.

It sounds like you have a pretty good idea of what you want and need.

 

[airbiscuit]

Also qoted about $1400 for 60" grader scraper from LP. $1568 for 60" LP rotary cutter. $2700 for 72" finish mower...

Any feedback on those prices? Is LP good implements? Being able to finance them at 0% is a plus but I still don't want to overpay.

I looked at and drove the L series todays. I think if I go with a Kubota, I'm pretty sold on a B2650.

Thinking just the 60" rotary for now to mow with. Then decide on either a 72" tow finishe mower or dedicated mower later. The issue I have with dedicated mower here might be dust... It is very dry and dusty here, not like back in VA, where it was like a jungle.

Thinking of passing on the rear blade in favor of the scraper. Still torn on whether I need a front blade for snow. Is a manual vs hydrolic blade ok to work with? By the time I add hydro blade and 3rd function for it, I'm out an extra $2k or so... Don't plan on needing a grapple here.

Forgot to ask dealer about a tiller.

Look on Craigslist for the cost of used equipment to get an idea of what is possible for cost. Landpride makes very good equipment. That said, I have had very good luck with King Kutter and found it to be a good value (less than 1/2 the price you listed above). Your property looks to be relatively "civilized".

 

[Tompet]

Dealer said the optional quick attach is the universal SSQA. No? I see only one option on the build your own kubota site.

Also he quoted me 4000lb forks. Wouldn't that be overkill (and unnecessary added weight). $885

Also qoted about $1400 for 60" grader scraper from LP. $1568 for 60" LP rotary cutter. $2700 for 72" finish mower...

Any feedback on those prices? Is LP good implements? Being able to finance them at 0% is a plus but I still don't want to overpay.

I looked at and drove the L series todays. I think if I go with a Kubota, I'm pretty sold on a B2650.

Thinking just the 60" rotary for now to mow with. Then decide on either a 72" tow finishe mower or dedicated mower later. The issue I have with dedicated mower here might be dust... It is very dry and dusty here, not like back in VA, where it was like a jungle.

Thinking of passing on the rear blade in favor of the scraper. Still torn on whether I need a front blade for snow. Is a manual vs hydrolic blade ok to work with? By the time I add hydro blade and 3rd function for it, I'm out an extra $2k or so... Don't plan on needing a grapple here.

Forgot to ask dealer about a tiller.

You are good on the ssqa.

You are correct on the forks, overkill and overweight for that tractor. See attached, I have a set of these and they have been very good. They do not “fall away” (forgot proper term) when pointing down. The latest model has indexed bar for moving individual tines. Your dealer may be able to order these or Everything attachments carried them last time I checked. Anyway, just a suggestion on appropriate size.

LP are very good quality implements, no worry.
Is that price on 5' grader scraper with ripper teeth? If so, ok priice, maybe you could do a little better. This and rotary cutter is a good start.

As airbiscuit said you can hunt up other used implements like a rear blade (for snow?) later on. A hydro front blade vs manual, if you go that route is much nicer than a manual, no doubt. Or rear or front mount snowblower in future?

You are getting FEL, why the need for 3rd function with a hydraulic front blade vs using FEL valve? Maybe someone can explain?

If there are some implements you get a quote on, but wind up not purchasing, ask dealer how long original quotes on remaining will be held.

If,you do get a dedicated mower, I suggest a mulching kit as that cuts down a lot on the dust.

Seems you have a pretty good grasp on what you want/need.

 

[roadhunter]

From my experience with a 45 HP Bobcat/Kioti tractor dealing with snow drifts and a driveway I would not have wanted anything smaller. What concerns me is the grade of your property. That tractor I had always made me pucker up on slopes or even ruts sometimes moving snow as it just felt unstable side to side. I think having the large rear tires made the center of gravity higher and it was only 5 ft wide if I remember correctly.

I purchased that one with a SSQA, Bucket, forks, and a rear box blade. I found the rear box blade to be better than the FEL for most snow work. I put a board on it to push more. I could see it really well from my seat and with the hydraulic top link I could scrape everything but ice pretty easily. Hydraulic top link is well worth it IMO. The box blade also makes a good counterweight which is necessary IMO if you want to get aggressive with the FEL moving heavy snow was all that bobcat wanted. I suspect a rear blower would work pretty good for what you are doing.




For your uneven land I would try to find something with a lower center of gravity (smaller rear tires) or a wider stance to help give you stability. Ballast for tires as well as chains woudl also be helpful for the terrain and work you plan to do.

 

[varmint]

Having cleared snow with a rear blade, then a front plow, I can say the plow is 10 times better. And, if you do get a plow, you will soon want hydraulic angling- trust me on that. I think you could install a rear remote and hoses for maybe under a $1000. Wide rear wheels and chains would give a comfort factor. I see online a useful 42" 3000lb pallet forks available from Titan for $429 delivered...

Last opinion: if you'll be mowing in dry conditions, wouldn't you rather have the dust cloud behind you, rather than below you?

 

[airbiscuit]

Is the rear blade all I need for grading the drive, or should I look into a box grader or scraper?

Wow, your driveway looks good. Lots of gravel. A rear blade or box blade (with guide wheels) would work well and a land plane/dual blade grader would work great. Here is what I made to maintain my 1/2 mile driveway:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URHteVfiYDI

ube.com/watch?v=URHteVfiYDI"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URHteVfiYDI[/URL]

 

[AxleHub]

CobaltBlue,

You obviously just moved to a very nice home and a laundry list of thoughts on the good looking property potential. I'd consider a few things.

1. Go look at a few other dealers like Massey, kioti, etc. And do it soon. Why? Well I figured out that FIL stands for father in law and he owns a kubota and that's what you 1st went to see. So by going to some other dealers just to look (even quickly) . . . you downplay the expectation of Kubota so you can not feel obligated to go his choice. I know it sounds odd . . . but "slowing the decision train down" . . I think . . . is a good plan

2. I'd walk the property with a d handle shovel and I'd dig a couple shovelsful down in numerous places to discover what your soils are and where they are. Are you in clay or sand or shale bed or rocks or ???. This will give you an idea of lawn potential vs. pasture vs. Semi arid. Then I'd find a lawnmower to temporarily use to ride the property to get an idea of roughness vs. Smoothness vs. Water runs etc. It isn't so important to cut the grass but morebto get your butt feeling how rough is the land . . .and where is it like that. In my thinking . . to plan your land you have to feel and see your land . . . but not on an atv or truck or at a distance.

3. If it hasn't been cared for in a couple years . . the above might give you some ideas what it could become . . and right now mother nsture is hiding it from you . Now once you get an idea the types of soils and feel the roughness of the terrain locations . . you get a better idea of tractor needs.

4. So now let me assume a couple things with that information. The house looks really nice and "not small". Maybe a 1 acre yard might be a little small for that house And maybe you'll have some pets or kids/grandkids coming over. Would you fence the yard to keep wandering animals away from the lawn. Or maybe a firepit further away from the house for privacy or ??? My point is . . Its a nice house and you have nice property and you may want more safe "family space" than just 1 acre.

5. Next . . Looks like a nice but easy driveway. You could plow it or snowblow it with about any size scut or cut tractors. IMO its an easy driveway. So bigger tractor issues become lawn vs. tilling vs. Pasture vs dirt work vs. Landscaping/tree work. Do you have high winds that create drifting or need wind breaks?


6. Depending on the dealers in your 60 mile radius . . I'd look at the Massey 1700 series tractors both e series and non e series. I'd look at yanmar 424 size or the kubotas you started with or maybe you could snap up a deal on a Cabelas closeout etc. Etc.. It doesn't "seem" like you need some big tractor because your pictures show easy slopes and lots of open land. But pictures can be deceiving as can assumptions. I walked and rode my land several times because its secrets were hidden from my eyesight by tall grass and weeds.

I think you have the potential for a very family friendly and very attractive property and a very nice house to landscape around.

P.s. you can get 3rd party cabs designed to fit many models from 800 dollars on up rather than genuine cabs at thousands. Also if you look at subcompacts . . Then numerousv3rd party implements are available that are dedigned with less weight but more efficient use. Ssqa is one quick attach method . . Not always the best one.

Jmho

 

[jodebg]

Have you considered a good used tractor...more bang for the buck, lower tier, less depreciation, and no sales tax.

 

[TJP89]

OK, my first thought is 25HP is ridiculously small for that size land and tasks planned. I would go no smaller than 35HP, and likely bigger, maybe 45HP. Most of our snow is heavier, but once there is a foot or so down, I'm really glad I have 35HP and 3500# worth of 4WD tractor. Implements seem right: Rotary cutter for the rough stuff. The FEL and rear blade combo is pretty good for snow. Could it be improved? Sure, but it's cheap and it works. Hydraulics for the blade make grading and snow plowing easier, but are not required and are pricey. Also, get a dedicated mower for the yard, the tractor is not the right tool for that. Also, if you're looking at a tractor that an take a MMM, you are looking at the wrong tractor for your property. I may have missed budget considerations, but I would urge you to go bigger. Also, look at other things beside Kubota, they are a good maker don't get me wrong, but contrary to what they would have you believe, they are not the only decent tractor maker around.

 

[fried1765]

Wow, your driveway looks good. Lots of gravel. A rear blade or box blade (with guide wheels) would work well and a land plane/dual blade grader would work great. Here is what I made to maintain my 1/2 mile driveway:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URHteVfiYDI

View attachment 459771ube.com/watch?v=URHteVfiYDI"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URHteVfiYDI[/URL]

View attachment 459771 View attachment 459772

I am curious.
How do you turn that "road drag" around?

 

[airbiscuit]

I have a turn around driveway, and I just do a U Turn when I get to the main road. My neighbor used to pull it with his pick up, and when he came top the end, he just did a series of back up and pull aheads until he was pointed in the right direction. The drag just spins around.