Fitting supplier

[Tractor Seabee]

Nice looking work, well done. I, hope those flare fittings are JIC 37 degree flares. Standard hydraulic hose fittings will not seal properly on the industry type 45 degree flare, we all are familiar with on our gas and water systems. On flare to flare tubing we usually did the tube flare as the double type. Yes, on industrial piping (my old trade) we ran into projects with JIC fittings. Had to be careful with steel/SS tube deforming between 37 and 45 degrees. Steel/SS were not as accommodating.

Where did you finally find the forged steel fittings?

Again nice work, Ron

 

[Bsavulis]

Nice looking work, well done. I, hope those flare fittings are JIC 37 degree flares. Standard hydraulic hose fittings will not seal properly on the industry type 45 degree flare, we all are familiar with on our gas and water systems. On flare to flare tubing we usually did the tube flare as the double type. Yes, on industrial piping (my old trade) we ran into projects with JIC fittings. Had to be careful with steel/SS tube deforming between 37 and 45 degrees. Steel/SS were not as accommodating.

Where did you finally find the forged steel fittings?

Again nice work, Ron

Thanks for the complement. My first time making lines, the real proof will be when I put pressure to them. The fittings came from Curtis Hydraulics in Hooksett NH.

 

[TractorGuy]

Looks better than all the hoses.

Did you look into buying the hard lines from a dealer?

Both of my tractors use oring boss to flat face oring adapters. The hard lines all have the flat face oring fittings.

 

[wdchyd]

........... The hard lines all have the flat face oring fittings.

I have the flat face braze/weld-ons too.

Looks good Brian:thumbsup:

 

[Bsavulis]

Looks better than all the hoses.

Did you look into buying the hard lines from a dealer?

Both of my tractors use oring boss to flat face oring adapters. The hard lines all have the flat face oring fittings.

The OEM is the hoses, they did not have solid lines available. The hoses originally were ran down inside the loader arm and through the center torque tube. I have a thread here of the issues I ran into when I went to add my home made grapple. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/409821-mouse-nest-turns-into-can.html

YES all the hoses in the picture were buried inside the loader arms and the center cross tube originally. Most of the OEM hoses are JIC6 on one end and JIC5 on the opposite end.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Thanks for the complement. My first time making lines, the real proof will be when I put pressure to them. The fittings came from Curtis Hydraulics in Hooksett NH.

Then real secret to successful sil-braze is clean thoroughly, proper flux, proper alloy (min 25% silver), evenly heat the socket and filling the socket with alloy. Material on top provides no added strength.

Ron

 

[Bsavulis]

Then real secret to successful sil-braze is clean thoroughly, proper flux, proper alloy (min 25% silver), evenly heat the socket and filling the socket with alloy. Material on top provides no added strength.

Ron

Ron,
I gave sockets of the fittings a bead blast, and purge with air. Then wiped down with acetone. The tubing was wiped down with an acetone soaked piece of scotch-brite. I used Harris Safety-Silv 45% with Harris Stay-Silv Black High Temp Flux. I did see the solder wet into the joints so I am hoping it all works out. If a fitting does leak anywhere I will probably have to re-fabricate the entire tube. I don't think I would ever be able to get the oil cleaned out enough to get it to seal up. I hope to put it back together and test it this weekend during the heat wave we will be having. (low 60's)

Thanks
Brian

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Ron,
I gave sockets of the fittings a bead blast, and purge with air. Then wiped down with acetone. The tubing was wiped down with an acetone soaked piece of scotch-brite. I used Harris Safety-Silv 45% with Harris Stay-Silv Black High Temp Flux. I did see the solder wet into the joints so I am hoping it all works out. If a fitting does leak anywhere I will probably have to re-fabricate the entire tube. I don't think I would ever be able to get the oil cleaned out enough to get it to seal up. I hope to put it back together and test it this weekend during the heat wave we will be having. (low 60's)

Thanks
Brian

Brian, great work, you did it just right. My go to silver braze alloy. Yeh, the existing are the hardest to braze due to the residual oil. In reefer work we ran into that a lot. Clean back with the solvent as far as you can and make sure there is no outward flow and you will be OK.

With you on getting a weather break to work outside, we have had constant rain for the last 4 weeks. Breaking records, even here in the wet Puget Sound area. Temps are mild (above) 35 but wind and rain keep me inside.

Ron

 

[Bsavulis]

Brian, great work, you did it just right. My go to silver braze alloy. Yeh, the existing are the hardest to braze due to the residual oil. In reefer work we ran into that a lot. Clean back with the solvent as far as you can and make sure there is no outward flow and you will be OK.

With you on getting a weather break to work outside, we have had constant rain for the last 4 weeks. Breaking records, even here in the wet Puget Sound area. Temps are mild (above) 35 but wind and rain keep me inside.

Ron

:cool2::confused2::licking::thumbsup::dance1:Yup thats right NO LEAKS!!! Whoooo Hoooo! Thanks to everyone for the advice and encouragement!
Brian