skipperbrown
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2002
- Messages
- 678
- Location
- Pensacola Fl, Birchwood TN
- Tractor
- Kubota b2650, bx2200, L3940 (gone), New Holland FWD TN85, RTV 900
The L4701 has a Category 1, Three Point Hitch.
The MX series has a heavier Category 2, Three Point Hitch to which Category 1 implements can be attached with Kubota provided pin shims. MX also has larger wheels and tires.
The only moderately heavy ground contact task you foresee now is smoothing eleven acres of rocky ground with a Disc Harrow for which MX might be slightly more suitable.
Either model will serve. Both models are work tractors without frills. No significant difference in weight nor horsepower.
You cannot make a bad decision choosing one over the other.
Ohhhhh GREAT! ! ! Now y’all got me to wondering about the MX5200 having the Turbo vs. Naturally Aspirated engine. I’ve never really had the reason to think about that until now. As a couple of y’all have mentioned, going the extra $2400 for more HP, lifting capacity and bigger machine should be an easy decision, so I figure I will be more likely to choose the 5200.
Are there any concerns I should have about the Turbo Diesel as far as performance, or maintenance issues? And if any more of you want to weigh in on the “better off going a bit bigger now, than later” issue, go right ahead.
I appreciate Jeff’s last comments regarding either tractor would serve me well.
I have almost always regretted "saving a few bucks" when making bigger purchases. While I was very happy with my B7800, it was too small for my needs. Now 15 years later, finally bought the right size tractor. Budgets are important, but your purchase will last many years. Bite the bullet now, and I am sure you will not regret several years down the road. Good luck.
Thanks for all the help! ! !
My desire all along was to buy a Kubota, but I needed to make sure I went into this tractor purchase with an open mind and explore all my options, especially with the $$$$ in mind. When I started reading the forums, and watching YouTube, I thought my purchase would be in the mid to high 30hp range. After describing my homestead and my plans for the place to some knowledgeable folks, I then found myself in the mid to high 40hp range.
I appreciate Jeff痴 comments about the 4701 or the 5200 serving my purposes sufficiently, but as a number of you have suggested in the long haul, $2400 over the 60mos, is not too much to bite off to get the bigger machine. I once bought a nice Benelli shotgun, and didn稚 spend the extra $350 to get the Super Black Eagle. Regretted it ever since. Not gonna do it with this investment.
All that said, I have decided on the MX5200. Unfortunately I am still about 3 weeks away from closing on my new home mortgage, and the banker told me not to take out the Kubota loan till we close. The Kubota dealer I am going to deal with has 2 MX 5200s on the lot. I sure hate the thought of them being sold in the next two weeks, being that they can稚 get any more new ones from the factory. I don稚 know if they would accept a reasonable deposit to hold it a few weeks. I値l see what the Kubota guy says on Monday.
I feel confident in my decision. Most of that confidence comes from mulling these things over with all of you folks that have personal experience around tractors. This thread is up to seven pages, and I really appreciate all the input.
One more thing regarding my first visit with this dealer. That price he gave me for the tractor, two implements and quick hitch. Do ya think THAT is it? I did discuss with him that the price he gave me was not as much as I expected to see Kubota come off. He said that was all he could do. What do y誕ll think? Think he gave me rock bottom, or was he just blowing the froth off the beer first? If so, how should I approach him when I talk to him again? I know how to deal for cars. . . Not tractors������
Do it when it's right and if this MX 5200 is no longer there I can see a MX 5400 peeking around the corner
IMO the price he gave is NOT his ultimate price, very very few do that till you sit down to sign the deal. I would also get quote from another or more dealers and if better make it work in your favour. You can say: look I got a lower quote, I'd rather do business with you, but also I don't want to feel like a chump so what can YOU do to keep my business. See what he says and remember that the dealer must make money to stay in business and that all dealers have different overhead & expenses.
BTW those Benellis are awsome guns.
Thanks for all the help! ! !
My desire all along was to buy a Kubota, but I needed to make sure I went into this tractor purchase with an open mind and explore all my options, especially with the $$$$ in mind.
SNIP
One more thing regarding my first visit with this dealer. That price he gave me for the tractor, two implements and quick hitch. Do ya think THAT is it? I did discuss with him that the price he gave me was not as much as I expected to see Kubota come off. He said that was all he could do. What do y誕ll think? Think he gave me rock bottom, or was he just blowing the froth off the beer first? If so, how should I approach him when I talk to him again? I know how to deal for cars. . . Not tractors������
What痴 wrong with a box blade on a gravel driveway. Seems like a fine combination to me. I知 a big fan of the Kubota TLBs but the cost is pretty substantially more. My biggest complaint is the gearing is too deep and and the loader is non removable. I値l live with those trade offs for a twice as strong machine.
I recently purchased a box blade with my new Kubota L3301. It is great for doing landscaping but for maintaining my 1/3 mile-long (hilly) gravel drive, my regular rear blade - in reversed position - works much better. Since it can be angled and tilted, the simple blade is also more useful for creating and maintaining swales and ditches, which are critical for diverting water from sloped drives.
The box blade which - has a cutting edge - tends to bite into the driveway and move a lot more material than you want to move. I have seen videos of box blades being used to maintain gravel drives but I still think a straight blade is much easier to use for smoothing the drive out. A few passes with the blade reversed will do the trick.
I can justify owning both as I do a lot of landscaping where the box blade excels, but if my only need was for driveway maintenance, I would go with the straight blade every time.
I recently purchased a box blade with my new Kubota L3301. It is great for doing landscaping but for maintaining my 1/3 mile-long (hilly) gravel drive, my regular rear blade - in reversed position - works much better. Since it can be angled and tilted, the simple blade is also more useful for creating and maintaining swales and ditches, which are critical for diverting water from sloped drives.
The box blade which - has a cutting edge - tends to bite into the driveway and move a lot more material than you want to move. I have seen videos of box blades being used to maintain gravel drives but I still think a straight blade is much easier to use for smoothing the drive out. A few passes with the blade reversed will do the trick.
I can justify owning both as I do a lot of landscaping where the box blade excels, but if my only need was for driveway maintenance, I would go with the straight blade every time.
Once again, I Really appreciate all the comments y'all have provided. If I was Mark Cuban, I'd just throw the chunk of change down, go on, and not worry about it. But, after buying the 20 acres, building the 1/4mi of road, putting in the well, putting in the 1/4mi of electricity, and then building the house. . . Wow, I need to make the right decisions. So bear with me for a few more weeks.
Just for more info. . . My wife and I will be moving out from Dallas to our new country home in about a week. So. . . I have not yet had the opportunity to meet the "farmers" and "ranchers" that know this stuff. Once we move, it will then be a bit before I get to meet some of these folks. Looking forward to it, though.
1. I KNOW that I am a Tenderfoot, and need advice. You're right Jeff9366, I have no idea what I don't know. So I don't take any offense whatsoever. That is why I have posted this thread for some "Real People" advice.
2. As far as implements goes, yes I Know Nothing! ! ! The Disc Harrow he had was from a Texas company, Armstrong Ag. The brush cutter was the brand, Titan. Now as I look on Craigslist, Tractorbynet, MachineryPete, and other online sources, what I am finding is the used implements are almost as much as the new. Like, a used disc harrow by Land Pride is only about $300 less than the new one. Maybe there are some better places for me to look.
3. Yes, the Kubota did say that I had to carry insurance on the tractor while financed. I am not sure if I HAVE to use their company or I can get my own. The thought to ask didn't occur to me. Though. . . I assume if I get a new tractor, whichever brand I choose, I assume I should get insurance on it. Though my builder commented that my homeowners should cover the tractor (but I don't know if that is true). And, that Kubota insurance is not cheap. $3000 over 5 years. As far as insurance goes, it appeared like it covered absolutely everything, including if someone spit on it ;-).
4. As far as the Kubota building in the the cost for the 0%. . . Yep, as rScotty mentioned, when I offered cash to get a better price, the dealer just snorted in derision. I reckon they just get you on the insurance they sell you. So the old saying, "they are gonna get it from ya one way or another" might be true.
I think that is it for today.
Thanks. . . Thanks. . . Thanks. . .
I don't understand how Kubota offers 5 yrs of credit at 0% while offering me only a measily $1,000 cash discount on my $22k purchase. This makes financing it with them a no-brainer.
(I estimated the cash discount should be over $3,000 depending on assumed interest rate. After all, there is really no such thing as "zero" interest. Money has a time value regardless of what you charge.)
There is something fishy about "zero" percent financing but I don't know what it is. (Maybe a tax credit offered by the government of Japan?)
Kubota requires insurance but I just added the tractor to my homeowners policy (for no additional charge) and had Allstate provide me a letter verifying they covered it.
I don't understand how Kubota offers 5 yrs of credit at 0% while offering me only a measily $1,000 cash discount on my $22k purchase. This makes financing it with them a no-brainer.(I estimated the cash discount should be over $3,000 depending on assumed interest rate. After all, there is really no such thing as "zero" interest. Money has a time value regardless of what you charge.)
There is something fishy about "zero" percent financing but I don't know what it is. (Maybe a tax credit offered by the government of Japan?)