Flail mower adjustment

[Ricn]

In the morning, I will try what OVRSZD says he is using as the top link is easy to change; if that shows no improvement then can reverse everything to slotted top and fixed bottoms. Thanks for the info everyone...

 

[ovrszd]

My runners only touch the ground minimize scalping in uneven terrain. Normally they are off the ground.

 

[jimmysisson]

My ex-municipal shd88 Alamo came with chain to use in place of the std. tractor lift links. Most of what I mow is flat, so this year I just used it with the standard links - worked just fine. No slots anywhere. I set the lower arms to level the mower and off I go.
Jim

 

[Ricn]

After trying a couple suggestions, looks like all is well with my new Woodmaxx 62H mower. Have changed "top link pin" from slotted hole to straight hole leaving the bottom arm pins in their slotted holes then, after re-adjusting levels on the concrete floor then tipping the mower up in front about one inch or so, made several turns both directions plus up/down some small hills with no scalping on turns, rises or dips. No issues with roller scrapper so far but grass is pretty dry this time of year. Having rear hydraulics sure makes changes easier than the manual link system, not cheap but well worth it! Thanks to everyone who gave suggestions in resolving this, hope I too can one day help others.

Ricn

 

[ovrszd]

After trying a couple suggestions, looks like all is well with my new Woodmaxx 62H mower. Have changed "top link pin" from slotted hole to straight hole leaving the bottom arm pins in their slotted holes then, after re-adjusting levels on the concrete floor then tipping the mower up in front about one inch or so, made several turns both directions plus up/down some small hills with no scalping on turns, rises or dips. No issues with roller scrapper so far but grass is pretty dry this time of year. Having rear hydraulics sure makes changes easier than the manual link system, not cheap but well worth it! Thanks to everyone who gave suggestions in resolving this, hope I too can one day help others.

Ricn

Glad you got it figured out.

On my mower, when sitting on the ground mowing, the lower links only pull the mower forward with floating tabs that allow lateral movement. The top link only regulates mowing height and is actually pushing toward the tractor when in motion. The mower seems to work best when the side runners are parallel with the ground. So the rear roller can be adjusted to get the cut height you want. I mow road banks with mine so the roller is in the highest cut position. Then a turn or two of the top link makes the fine adjustment I'm after.

 

[Ricn]

So far, we have the runners as high as they will go, roller as low as it will go. If choosing a level mower on the shop floor, I get some scraping in turns but when moving the top link out some, all is well. Maybe this "level in-the-shop-setting still gives some gouging due to my uneven ground and why it works ok when tilted up and inch or so? All I can say is, it's working!

 

[ovrszd]

And that's all that matters!!!

 

[Dadnatron]

Maybe this "level in-the-shop-setting still gives some gouging due to my uneven ground and why it works ok when tilted up and inch or so? All I can say is, it's working!

I wonder whether having your tractor on a hard surface artificially raises it a few inches by way of the tread. That tread will sink in much more when on dirt/sod compared to concrete, thereby causing your tractor to not only be 'shorter' in relation to the grass and dirt, but to also be tilted slightly forward in relation to a long solid roller.

 

[Ricn]

Good thought Dadnatron however, my tractor has industrial tires meaning the tread is much wider than AG tires have and, the ground here is pretty hard in summer months, not much rain. Leveling on concrete had been recommended by several others and why I choose that over the roughness of the field. If having the mower skids up just a little from level, all is well, but if having them at level I get some gouging.

 

[Lnk]

Good job. Glad you got it worked out. Now if we only had a picture of the results, all would be right with the world...��

 

[Ricn]

I have so much trouble trying to post photos, have done so a couple years back but alas it slips my mind how to do them. Have been trying here for 20 min but no cigar, sorry.

RN

 

[Ricn]

try these, may have got it.

RN

 

[Lnk]

Looks nice. That's a nice looking tractor and mower. Makes my old stuff look, well, old. :laughing:

 

[Ricn]

Maybe this is better.

 

[Lnk]

That is a better picture.

 

[leonz]

I am surprised by the rear scraper bar as it is not really something you need in a flail mower.
It also explains why they tell you to not back up with it while mowing as it will bend the
scraper bar.

How thick is the steel plate weldment for the trash ejection/knife service door?

Is there a cross brace weldment/round or square tubing weldment under the rear lip of the trash door or is the rear roller mounting plate and the scraper and the rear roller used to enhance/act as the cross bracing to strengthen the mowers shroud/trash door/knife service door????




I look froward to hearing how well it performs with the trash door open.

 

[shaeff]

Looks nice. That's a nice looking tractor and mower. Makes my old stuff look, well, old. :laughing:

I know the feeling! Still gets the job done!

 

[sidecarist]

I am surprised by the rear scraper bar as it is not really something you need in a flail mower.
It also explains why they tell you to not back up with it while mowing as it will bend the
scraper bar.

How thick is the steel plate weldment for the trash ejection/knife service door?

Is there a cross brace weldment/round or square tubing weldment under the rear lip of the trash door or is the rear roller mounting plate and the scraper and the rear roller used to enhance/act as the cross bracing to strengthen the mowers shroud/trash door/knife service door????




I look froward to hearing how well it performs with the trash door open.

The whole body of the mower looks to be 3/16", with 1/4" ends.

The scraper bar acts as a tie bar across the back of the mower and maintains spacing for the roller bearings. I will be modifing the scraper to be a simple 3/8" thick bar 2" wide. This will be much more robust than the formed angle that it came with. It's the only thing on the mower that is sub par.

There is no cross brace under the lower edge of the trash door. When the door is open the whole rear of the mower is open. I've mowed with it open, but for what I mow it's not needed. If I had more stalks and tough material it would be helpful. I may have the chance to try it on corn stalks later this summer. If I do I'll let everyone know.

For now I leave the door closed even when mowing in 4' weeds. It mows to about 4" just fine with only the occasional place where the tire compacts the weeds enough that the don't get vacuumed upright. It's worse when things are wet...

 

[Ricn]

So far, I have mowed both open and closed but for my areas no need to have it open. Having added top and tilt just before getting the mower, am having an issue with the system bleeding down somewhere causing the mower to get out of level by quite a bit when raising the three point up from the mowing position. Not sure yet what is causing this, the tilt cylinder, valve body or the lever control. Each time I re-level the lower arms that also levels the mower followed by mowing awhile then raising the three point the mower is hanging lower on the tilt cylinder side...

Ricn

 

[leonz]

So far, I have mowed both open and closed but for my areas no need to have it open. Having added top and tilt just before getting the mower, am having an issue with the system bleeding down somewhere causing the mower to get out of level by quite a bit when raising the three point up from the mowing position. Not sure yet what is causing this, the tilt cylinder, valve body or the lever control. Each time I re-level the lower arms that also levels the mower followed by mowing awhile then raising the three point the mower is hanging lower on the tilt cylinder side...

Ricn

============================================================================


As far as the leaking off goes its most likely leaking through the valve back to the tank sump
which is always 99% of the problem with all brands of mules and hard to repair as you have to
split the mule to fix it.

you can always invest in a hydraulic needle valve to hold the top and tilt in place to prevent the
cylinder from leaking off.

If you decide to invest in a needle valve to shut the flow off its less costly than a pilot operated
lock valve setup for one side of the top and tilt valve.

If you decide to invest in a needle valve you should just take the cylinder to a hydraulic repair shop
to let the folks there get the right size needle valve for your hoses and fitttings.