Flail Mower Recommendations

[JohnnyW]

Ok so I am tired of my rock throwing, rustin out rotary mower. I would like to purchase a not brand new flail mower. I have an L3830 Kubota (40 hp gross) tractor. Looking at the upper 5 foot to 6 foot cutting width. Cutting heavy, thick, wet, tall grass with some blackberry vines, poison oak, and light brush etc. What do you recommend for flails: Brand, cutter style etc? Oh yeah rear pto with cat 1 hitch 540 rpm etc the usual.

 

[Todd727]

I've been very happy with an older Alamo that I found on CL for $600. I replaced all of the flails because I wanted to go for the heavy duty set, but still got a great mower for less than $1000.

 

[JohnnyW]

Alamo makes great machines. I have been looking at Craigs List for the San Fran Bay area but nothing has popped out at me yet. I will take one vote for alamo, thanks.

 

[greg_g]

When it comes to used flails, your choice is going to be limited. It's more assessing the condition of what you find, rather than being able to pick and choose. And I've got a 74" with HD T-knives behind a 3720 John Deere (35 PTO hp). I can guarantee you mine would struggle through "heavy, thick, wet, tall grass with some blackberry vines, poison oak, and light brush etc", so you might want to limit your search to five footers.

//greg//

 

[flusher]

Ok so I am tired of my rock throwing, rustin out rotary mower. I would like to purchase a not brand new flail mower. I have an L3830 Kubota (40 hp gross) tractor. Looking at the upper 5 foot to 6 foot cutting width. Cutting heavy, thick, wet, tall grass with some blackberry vines, poison oak, and light brush etc. What do you recommend for flails: Brand, cutter style etc? Oh yeah rear pto with cat 1 hitch 540 rpm etc the usual.

I have a Value Leader 68" flail that I bought a few years ago.

68" Heavy Duty Flail Mower EFGC175 - Value Leader Implements

Works OK in my hayfield. Haven't tried it in the brush (since I don't have any brush to mow).

AgriSupply sell the Caroni brand that seems to be popular with TBNers

Flail Mower 73 Width W/Pto Shaft

Good luck.

 

[leonz]

Ok so I am tired of my rock throwing, rustin out rotary mower.
I would like to purchase a not brand new flail mower.
I have an L3830 Kubota (40 hp gross) tractor.
Looking at the upper 5 foot to 6 foot cutting width.
Cutting heavy, thick, wet, tall grass with some blackberry vines,
poison oak, and light brush etc.

What do you recommend for flails: Brand, cutter style etc?
Oh yeah rear pto with cat 1 hitch 540 rpm etc the usual.

Hello JohnnyW,



The only way you will be able to manage this is to prowl
tractorhouse, iron planet, farm auction etc., on the internet.


This is the only way you will find a used flailmower in good condition
unless you repetitively check all the municipal auctions in California
for surplus flailmowers.


As far as Side Slicer Knives are concerned you want a side slicer with a
heat treated hardened side slicer type of knive.

Unless you purchase a flailmower with what you know specifically are heat treated
side slicers you you will need to buy them as replacement knives for the work intended.


You may be better off simply purchasing a new 4 foot cut finish flail mower as you will have many more
side slicers to mow with as you will have less dificulty mowing as the clippings will be smaller.
You will have make it a habit of wearing disposable gloves when checking the knives periodically
to avoid issues with exposure to poison oak etc. or spend time washing it(recommended) with hot water
to dislodge grass waste and grass dust.


___________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Once you go flail you never go back:thumbsup::licking::drool:
Pronovost or not at all!!!:thumbsup::licking::drool:

 

[aczlan]

Ok so I am tired of my rock throwing, rustin out rotary mower. I would like to purchase a not brand new flail mower. I have an L3830 Kubota (40 hp gross) tractor. Looking at the upper 5 foot to 6 foot cutting width. Cutting heavy, thick, wet, tall grass with some blackberry vines, poison oak, and light brush etc. What do you recommend for flails: Brand, cutter style etc? Oh yeah rear pto with cat 1 hitch 540 rpm etc the usual.

</SNIP>
You may be better off simply purchasing a new 4 foot cut finsh flail as you will have many more
side slicers to mow with as you wil have less dificulty mowing as the clippings will be smaller.
</SNIP>

Uh leonz, JohnnyW said that he has a L3830, it is at least 6' wide, has ~35 PTO HP and ours pushes a 5' rotary like it isn't there (unless you are cutting low in heavy grass).
Methinks that a 4' flail would be a little bit on the small side.

Aaron Z

 

[leonz]

Aaron,
I understood what he was talking about.


This is why I speciflcally said he may need to look at a 4 foot finish flail if
his brush is this dense.The more side slicers you have the finer the cut,
the smaller the clippings.

 

[aczlan]

Aaron,
I understood what he was talking about.
This is why I speciflcally said he may need to look at a 4 foot finish flail if
his brush is this dense.The more side slicers you have the finer the cut,
the smaller the clippings.

Not sure it would be worth getting a flail if you cant put at least a 5' one behind a tractor with 35PTO HP to cut heavy grass and light brush :confused2:
Per the Agri-Supply website, the Caroni 47" cut and 59" cut F rotor (Finish) flails are both rated at 20-40HP.
The Caroni 73" cut B rotor flail is rated at 30-60HP (although from the wording, the Caroni HP numbers may be gross HP, not PTO HP)

Aaron Z

 

[knotweed]

I bought an almost new BEFCO. I mow 4 acres with a 20 HP Yanmar. Very happy with results.

 

[sodamo]

Another vote here for the 68" Value Leader. They do come in different specs, the heavy duty one is about 900 lbs - lot of steel. You can change knives vs hammers easily.
Had mine about 2 1/2 years and my rotary just sits, guess I ought to just sell it.

David Sent from my iPad using TractorByNet

 

[SuperCobra]

I have an old Mott 6' flail mower I purchased last year used for $300 dollars. It takes 188 blades and with rocks the grass Y blades don't last nearly as long as I would have hoped. I replaced all of them when I first bought it (for another ~$300) and recently took them all off and flipped them and sharpened them where I could but most of them will need replaced again after less then a year. I see the Caroni and Value Leader brands use a third less blades on their 6' footers. My point is, if the quality of the cut, durability, and price of new blades are the same, I would have been better off buying a brand new one of those as I'd save the difference in purchase price over the course of a few years of buying extra blades. Plus, changing that many blades is a PITA.

PS - Mine is offset a great deal and I really don't care for that - others might. It looks like the Value Leader is also offset. Just something else to consider.

 

[leonz]

I have an old Mott 6' flail mower I purchased last year used for $300 dollars.
It takes 188 blades and with rocks the grass Y blades don't last nearly as
long as I would have hoped.

I replaced all of them when I first bought it (for another ~$300) and recently
took them all off and flipped them and sharpened them where I could but
most of them will need replaced again after less then a year.

I see the Caroni and Value Leader brands use a third less blades on their 6' footers.

My point is, if the quality of the cut, durability, and price of new blades are the same,
I would have been better off buying a brand new one of those as I'd save the difference
in purchase price over the course of a few years of buying extra blades.
Plus, changing that many blades is a PITA.

PS - Mine is offset a great deal and I really don't care for that - others might.
It looks like the Value Leader is also offset. Just something else to consider.

Do not lose hope with your Mott Finish type flail mower.

You apparently have a very well built Mott Finish Flail Mower with the following:

four rows of side slicers,
47 mounting stations per row,
188 side slicers.

Are your side slicers the thinner type of side slicers with the long 4 inch side slicer design?



The Caroni Folks offer three types of Flail mower rotors for their line of flail mowers.


The Caroni Blades are hardened also f I remember correctly.

If you have a lot of rocks and debris that you are mowing
over with standard blades as well as mowing at a lower
height with these blades you are going to damage them.

It may be of a huge benefit to you to rent a heavy York Rake
to drag the area you want to mow continually to remove a lot
of the crap you are hitting with the flail mower.


Are you using a wet well grinder for sharpening your side slicers?
That may be a lot of the problem as excess heat will destroy the
stamped steels temper in the individual side slicer blades.

The wet well scissor and knive grinder will give you a perfect edge
all the time everytime. The secret is the wet grinding wheel which
prevents the piece being ground from overheating when a new edge
is created by the wet wheel.

You need to raise the cutting height to avoid damaging the side slicers
until you go through the area with a York type landscape rake.


______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Once you go flail you never go back:thumbsup::licking::drool:
Pronovost or not at all!!!:thumbsup::licking::drool:

 

[charleyfarmall]

I have the same Mott fine cut flail. It cuts better than anything at all when it's sharp. It is not a good mower for areas with rocks because you damage so many flails at one time. Everywhere else it is far better than the Caroni. I have both and I like them both. The Caroni has the hydraulic offset which is nice. I am field mowing with the Mott right now and hitting plenty of rocks. I am going to finish the field with the flails in their current condition before dealing with it. It's a new field and I don't know the obstacles and haven't had a chance to dig the smaller rocks out.

I usually just change the most damaged flails out and leave the rest. I sharpen them until I can't anymore too. It's not worth replacing them all at once.

Comparing the high count flail to the Caroni, the cut is far better, but that said, the Caroni is as good as my finish mower in the field.

I like them well enough I sold the smaller bush hog. As soon as I can get an 88" Alamo I will probably give up the 10' hog as well.

 

[SuperCobra]

Do not lose hope with your Mott Finish type flail mower.

You apparently have a very well built Mott Finish Flail Mower with the following:

four rows of side slicers,
47 mounting stations per row,
188 side slicers.

Are your side slicers the thinner type of side slicers with the long 4 inch side slicer design?



The Caroni Folks offer three types of Flail mower rotors for their line of flail mowers.


The Caroni Blades are hardened also f I remember correctly.

If you have a lot of rocks and debris that you are mowing
over with standard blades as well as mowing at a lower
height with these blades you are going to damage them.

It may be of a huge benefit to you to rent a heavy York Rake
to drag the area you want to mow continually to remove a lot
of the crap you are hitting with the flail mower.


Are you using a wet well grinder for sharpening your side slicers?
That may be a lot of the problem as excess heat will destroy the
stamped steels temper in the individual side slicer blades.

The wet well scissor and knive grinder will give you a perfect edge
all the time everytime. The secret is the wet grinding wheel which
prevents the piece being ground from overheating when a new edge
is created by the wet wheel.

You need to raise the cutting height to avoid damaging the side slicers
until you go through the area with a York type landscape rake.


______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Once you go flail you never go back:thumbsup::licking::drool:
Pronovost or not at all!!!:thumbsup::licking::drool:

I probably did the math wrong. I don't don't recall if all rows have the exact same number of stations but it is four rows with approximately 24 stations per row. I don't know if they are heat treated but I trash new blades almost beyond repair so it's not how I sharpen them. These style blades are so thin that one nick pretty much ruins the entire cutting edge. And it's not an excessive amount of rocks or cutting too low. I only cut down to 4-5" and don't don't have very many rocks. It just seems to me that a few rocks can cause much more blade damage than they would on other style mowers.

 

[leonz]

Does your mower have rear roller?????
It is supposed to have one if it is not there.

If you have a lot of rost heaving pushing up rocks you
should use york rake to try to remove them or simply roll the area if possible.



In no way should you should not be having this
much damage on those knives if your rear roller is intact as
the rear roller is used for the mowing height gauge.


Your Mott Flail Mower must be the model 96 with 118 knives
stations and 236 knives.


Please tell me you are not using the mower with the skids
on the ground- thats a no no.

Does the three point hitch have a hydraulic lock valve under the seat?

The mower needs to be adjusted front to back level with the top link
and left that way while you mow.

The skids are ther to prevent the mower from nose diving and
scalping the turf thats their ONLY job.


No worries these knives are not that expensive.

You have the MH38(Flail Master Part Number) fine cut grass slicer


Lower the rear roller mower one or two more bolt holes to raise
the cutting height and you should be fine.

 

[OhioCowboy]

I've had good luck with the NH (Ford) 918H. I have the 6' on my TC33D (33 hp) with hydrostatic. Probably have about 800 hours of mowing on it so far.

 

[leonz]

I've had good luck with the NH (Ford) 918H. I have the 6' on my TC33D (33 hp) with hydrostatic. Probably have about 800 hours of mowing on it so far.

Welcome to the Flail Mower Nation.


Only 17,888 mowers to go.
_________________________________________________________________
Once you go flail you never go back:thumbsup::licking::drool:
Pronovost or not at all!!!:thumbsup::licking::drool:

 

[whirly]

...

Are you using a wet well grinder for sharpening your side slicers?
That may be a lot of the problem as excess heat will destroy the
stamped steels temper in the individual side slicer blades.

The wet well scissor and knive grinder will give you a perfect edge
all the time everytime. The secret is the wet grinding wheel which
prevents the piece being ground from overheating when a new edge
is created by the wet wheel. ...

Which wet well grinder do you use? I haven't needed one yet but will soon.