Flat face hydraulic connectors are better?

[flingwing1969]

To the OP... I'm wondering if your problem doesn't have anything to do with the connections on the tractor side, but instead has to do with the pressure staying in the lines on the implement side of your setup. Maybe it would help if you try to relieve the pressure on that side of things first. Maybe get yourself a spare male and female connector that you can keep unattached to anyting, but that you can insert into the circuits which are under pressure, and let it flow out of the open-end to relieve that pressure....? ]

Thanks for the thought but I sort of doubt it is implement side, otherwise why would releasing pressure on the tractor side permit me to make the connection?

 

[TSO]

Thanks for the thought but I sort of doubt it is implement side, otherwise why would releasing pressure on the tractor side permit me to make the connection?

Maybe it's giving the fluid in the Implement side a place to go when making the connection...

That's my assumption since you are saying that you have taken other measures from the joysticks to relieve pressure on the tractor side

 

[bdhsfz6]

It appears that everyone who is familiar with FF couplers has a different opinion of their performance.

In my case, I switched from FF to Pioneer Ag type. I use female couplers on my tractors and males on my implements. Yes, they leak some oil but not much more than the FF's when you have to crack the fitting to relieve the pressure.

I have no problems with pressure binding on the tractor side since for me, it is easily relieved by working the joystick and 3rd function switch with the engine off. I do however have the problem with every hydraulic implement I own. On one, it's easy to relieve the pressure by tapping the ball end of the male coulper on a hard surface. On implements with larger hyd. cylinders, this trick needs to be done repeatedly and loses quite a bit of oil. For those, I use this simple manifold with bleeder valve:



A cheaper solution is to use male Ag couplers with no ball check valve. Keep a supply of zip top sandwich bags around and hold one under the coupler when you disconnect it to catch the leaking oil. Then hold the bag in place around the coupler end with a rubber band.

 

[Jim Timber]

I have mine with both male and female on the attachment and tractor so I never worry about crossing up the hoses. The issues I have are either ice induced, or from pressure in the system with nowhere to go.

Something that has been in the back of my mind is to put a "tee" in the line at the fitting with a pipe plug in the end instead of using my right-angle fittings to make the corner. Then if you're fighting a high pressure situation you just need to back off the plug.

 

[Industrial Toys]

What surprises me, is how little pressure it actually takes to make these unworkable.

 

[flingwing1969]

What surprises me, is how little pressure it actually takes to make these unworkable.

Exactly! When I break the connection to bleed off "all that pressure" there is just a little drip and no evidence of any pressure at all. More like it is liquid-locked.

 

[Nemmy]

How difficult is it to switch the factory 3rd function couplers on the loader from one style to another? and I guess I'm really asking if I should expect it to dump a bunch of oil or if there's some trick to get away with a minimal mess.

 

[bdhsfz6]

How difficult is it to switch the factory 3rd function couplers on the loader from one style to another? and I guess I'm really asking if I should expect it to dump a bunch of oil or if there's some trick to get away with a minimal mess.

Switching connector types is a relatively easy job requiring the right size wrenches. You should use thread tape or pipe dope to seal the threads of the new fittings. You will loose a few ounces of oil in the process so do it over a shallow pan or an absorbent rag.

 

[FatTire]

You could elevate your FEL, supported so it can't fall, and the lines won't drain out.