I can only tell you what I do, I use Diesel fuel to flush with, first I drain the hydraulic lift box then fill it with Diesel and drain it, then fill it again and let that run thru the system then drain it out, take the return line off the lifter box and fill the lifter box with new hydraulic fluid and run that with the return line off until I get clean hydraulic oil returning. Hook the return back up and top off.
The trans I do next, I drain it, fill to mark with Diesel, I drive the tractor about 100 feet and back, then drain the diesel out, let it drain real well. refill with 80/90 gear oil. The front axle should have been off the machine and probably empty or close. when its on the tractor I fill with diesel drive 100 feet and back and drain all 3 drain plugs, refill with 80/90 gear oil.
The engine DO NOT run the engine with diesel in the oil pan at all, could cause the engine to run away. I drain the oil from the engine, unscrew the filter and dump the oil from the filter, then put the filter back on the engine. Fill engine to dip stick full mark with diesel. Now this is important" pull the engine stop cable out, like to kill the engine, clamp a pair of vice grips on the cable so it can not go back in(on the metal shaft behind the knob).Now turn the compression release lever to the right all the way, hold it there, crank engine in 5 second bursts until you see the oil preasure guage rise up just a little. Drain the diesel out of the engine and remove the filter. Let it drain out real well. I take a small magnet pick up tool and put it in the oil drain hole to pick up any metal that might have washed to the sides of the hole and usually I get a bunch out of them.
Fill the engine to full mark with 15/40 diesel oil, like Rotella or other brands and fill oil filter about 3/4 and put the NEW filter on.
Do the same thing, clamp the stop, hold the compression release over and crank the engine in 5 second bursts until you see the oil preasure guage rise, Now its safe to start the engine. recheck oil level after running.
The injector pump, on the new 354's they have a dip stick at the back of the pump, drain is on the bottom sort of more towards the engine block, its a 10mm bolt head, don't lose the copper washer on the plug bolt. drain the pump, I flush it by putting the plug back in just a few turns add about 4 oz of 30 wt motor oil and drain it again, pulls the crap out of the pump. put plug back in and tighten fill to top mark (the mark is light to see) right at the bottom of the white plastic part. takes about 7 oz to 8 oz of oil. I use 30 wt detergent motor oil.
let it sit 1 hour and recheck, it fills at the vent on the back top, looks like a mushroom, remove it for filling.
Now to save you problems later get liquid electric tape, looks like black paint, hardware stores sell it. Paint the wire connectors at the oil sending unit(by oil filter) the clutch start switch wires and the stop light connector on the underside and the ones up by the tail lites and other exposed ones, for a few buck will save you a headach down the road.
I replace the wire clamps on the power steering cylinder boot with regular screw type hose clamps, the wire ones pop off all the time.
grease every fitting you can find, the ones on the front and back hubs get 20 pumps each then every 50 hours of use give them 5 pumps, the fronts are on the outside of the wheels the backs are inside, don't over look the ones on the boxes at each end of the 4x4 drive shaft. Also there is a drain plug for the trans at the trans end of the 4x4 shaft, left side of the tractor, this needs drained also when you do the trans.
I use precharged anti freeze
if you have other questions PM me I own 3 354's
Have fun get dirty
Jim
