Follow-up to sticky hydro. pedals

[djradz]

No "heavy loads" necessary for mine to stick. Just a little playing in the snow the other night made it stick several times, and I wasn't even pushing snow when it happened. I'm writing my letter now!

 

[jinman]

Duane, no doubt you are correct that there is a big difference between the "under power/under load" reaction of the transmission and pedals. The hydro transmission uses a small charge pump internally for control fluid pressure. When the engine lugs down, there is less hydraulic pressure and I believe less "muscle" to make the hydrostatic transmissions swashplate return to center. Perhaps the charge pump is really underpowered and cannot control the transmission when it is under full load. Either way, the first time you experience it, it will make your rear-end get a good grip on your seat. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif THe pucker factor is pretty high until you press the opposite pedal.

My feelings about the pedal assembly lube are that you can make your controls as good as they are going to get by keeping them cleaned and lubed. I don't mean to suggest this as a cure for the problem, but only an aid in living with it. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Also, the bushing in the support plate is nylon. I agree brass might have been more appropriate, but we do live in a plastic world. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

 

[Mark_in_NH]

Jim,
What do you use for a lubricant on yours ?

 

[Jsheds]

I'm curios about this whole hydro thing. Your pictures and diagrams are of two pedals. My TC33DA has one pedal on the right for the hydro that resembles a heel-toe shifter on a motorcycle. Push on the front end to go forward, the back end to go backwards. Is this a change from the old design, or are all the TC33's like mine? I have not experienced this problem.

 

[tc35dforme]

Jsheds, NH Class III Boomers use the split pedal design. One forward, one back....The Class II have the treddle style as do 'Botas and I think Deere ??

 

[jinman]

Mark, I've been using a Super-TECH brand spray lubricant I bought at WalMart. It doesn't evaporate like WD-40 and yet it is not thick and gummy like white lithium grease in a spray can. When I spray it on, it rinses off the old dirty residue and re-applys fresh lubricant at the same time.

I have some chain lube, but have not tried that. If it is made for a chain, it should serve well in the same area. The only problem I see is it normally has graphite particles suspended and I don't know if that would be good if I accidently got it on/inside an electrical connector.

I think WD-40 would work fine, it just might not last as long as the lube I currently use.

 

[dylan]

I'm running the f200 fluid for cold weather. The only time mine sticks is if I have been running in high range, full speed down the road with cruise on for a while. You can take it off cruise and it will keep on trucking. You really need to step on the reverse pedal to get it to slow down.

 

[djradz]

Thanks for the feedback Jim. I really appreciate your insightful comments and help. I'm just getting really ticked about all the problems with my 40D that to me are just a result of poor engineering or fabrication. Maybe a change to F200 fluid will help, but I hate to spend the money yet on that. Mine acts up with virtually NO load on it and with the RPMs remaining high. I can't imagine what it might be like if I really loaded it up or lugged the drivetrain down. /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

 

[kensfarm]

I just read an article last night in the "Compact Equipment" magazine that JD has a recall going on some Hydro Static tractors w/ the problem being the same as discussed here.. problem w/ the pedal returning to neutral.. is this old news?

 

[techinNY]

I have only had to change two of these assemblies but both times I have been able to do it without removing the whole platform. I do have to remove the support for the platform on that side. I am sure it is alot easier with the platform off, but alot more involved.